Looking To Buy K8T

[bc24fl]

I'm somewhat of a newbie in the rc pro car hobby. My previous experience is mostly airplanes and heli's. Currently I have a nice modded Jato 3.3 but would prefer a 4wd rugged beast.

After a couple of months of internet research I've narrowed it down to the K8T because of costs (I'd also like to stay married :) ). I am very impressed with ST-RR and MBX5T but they are very expensive. Supposedly the K8T is a clone of the MBX5T so hence my decision.

Anyway, I'm interested in the RTR version but I can't find a comparison of parts for the KIT vs the RTR to make a better decision. Are all the Kit parts necessary or are some just added weight and bling? If so, what parts are absolutely necessary and what can I ignore. I prefer the car to be as light as possible yet durable enough to race with.

Also what's up with the hi torque servo's. Are they needed for response or do the standard 3000 futaba servos break under normal racing conditions. I can't recall any of my planes needing hi torque servos and the stnd worked just fine.

Any ideas would be much appreciated.

BTW, I live in Miami, Florida.

[vnmsgt]

I am in winter garden FL. Holeshothobbies.com and could get you a kit or RTR next day pretty much with regular shipping. The RTR is a great truck. Only thing I see really better on the kit it the chassis braces. The RTR has plastic one with a turnbuckle on them for adjusting them, the KIT was are all aluminum. The RTR has 6061 CNC aluminum which is better than most out there and the shock towers are 4mm thick which most RTR's do not have. The KIT is 5mm thick towers with 7075 aluminum. Only thing I would put on the RTR is a different set of tires and that is all. The KIT comes with the same tires so it would not matter. Unless you like to build stuff yourself you will do great with the RTR version. One of the best made I think.

[bc24fl]

I am in winter garden FL. Holeshothobbies.com and could get you a kit or RTR next day pretty much with regular shipping. The RTR is a great truck. Only thing I see really better on the kit it the chassis braces. The RTR has plastic one with a turnbuckle on them for adjusting them, the KIT was are all aluminum. The RTR has 6061 CNC aluminum which is better than most out there and the shock towers are 4mm thick which most RTR's do not have. The KIT is 5mm thick towers with 7075 aluminum. Only thing I would put on the RTR is a different set of tires and that is all. The KIT comes with the same tires so it would not matter. Unless you like to build stuff yourself you will do great with the RTR version. One of the best made I think.

Thanks. What about the chassis vs the kit. I beleive I read somewhere that the kit chassis is much better?

I also pm'ed you my email so you can give me a quote on rtr with next day. Thanks.

[vnmsgt]

The chassis is 6061 on the kit and 7075 on the kit. Both are the same except for the kind of aluminum. I forgot to mention the RTR has dogbones for the center and rear driveshafts and the KIT has CVD's all the way around. The RTR does have front CVD's though.

[hakmazter]

The official answer. Basically anything aluminum is 6061 on the RTR and 7075 on the Kit. So, this means that...
the RTR parts are more flexible and are less likely to break, but they are a little heavier even thought some are 1mm thinner. They are also gunmetal grey where the 7075 is anodized black with routered edges that almost look chrome. The chassis plate on the RTR is a little thicker also so it will take much more abuse.

There is an upgrade chassis plate that is even lighter than the kit one. It is 7075 and it is routered out even more for weight savings, yet is as durable. If you have a motor, etc... you are probably better off with the kit if you are looking for weight savings and want to race. If you want a good dependable vehicle that you can race, get the RTR. I am going to be running a RTR this season just to show people it can be done. However, I am not the caliber of driver that most here are.

Mike

[bc24fl]

The official answer. Basically anything aluminum is 6061 on the RTR and 7075 on the Kit. So, this means that...
the RTR parts are more flexible and are less likely to break, but they are a little heavier even thought some are 1mm thinner. They are also gunmetal grey where the 7075 is anodized black with routered edges that almost look chrome. The chassis plate on the RTR is a little thicker also so it will take much more abuse.

There is an upgrade chassis plate that is even lighter than the kit one. It is 7075 and it is routered out even more for weight savings, yet is as durable. If you have a motor, etc... you are probably better off with the kit if you are looking for weight savings and want to race. If you want a good dependable vehicle that you can race, get the RTR. I am going to be running a RTR this season just to show people it can be done. However, I am not the caliber of driver that most here are.

Mike

Many thanks for the detailed response.

Hakmazter, what dif oils would you run in the RTR when you race? I'm placing an order with Vnmsgt and would like this included in the order.

I really appreciate all the help.

[bc24fl]

Ok just purchased rtr from vnmsgt (Holeshothobbies.com). Very nice and knowledgeable guy.

Thanks again.

[hakmazter]

Hopefully he replied to you. I would recommend 3000 rear 10000 center 7000 front, but I am not the official racing expert. I like my vehicles to get traction and I know that the truggies need higher fluid weights than the buggies as the wheels/tires are larger and heavier.

[razzor]

Haks suggestion would be a good starting point.
Just to add I have come across guys that will change the center braces on their truggies to "tune" the chassis.
Apparently or what makes sense is that the RTR braces are not as stiff as the ally Pro kits and this lends to more traction on loose surfaces due to it allowing the chassis to flex a bit.

[bc24fl]

Thanks alot guys for all your help. Im very grateful and wish I could repay you but I know squat about rc cars.

I'm a computer guy so any help in that area I'll be more than happy to help.

I'll probably be the only caster here in Miami area so I'll try to represent to the best of my abilities. I've seen only Kyho, Mugen, Losi's and a few other known brands.

Thanks.

[hakmazter]

Well then, it will be your responsibility to change that (Miami area)......lol.

[bc24fl]

Well then, it will be your responsibility to change that (Miami area)......lol.

Sure already started. I keep hearing caster who??? Even the LHS never heard of caster.

My friends are telling me I'm dumb for not getting into Losi or another proven brand. Hopefully I can put an end to that thinking. It would be pretty embarrising for them if this rtr destroys there kit cars. ?&^

I'll be posting results soon.

[vnmsgt]

I always get the same thing!! Do not let it bother you. At least you have something different and did not spend the money they did and will probably beat them once you get used to it. I have not problem hanging with anything at my local tracks so you should be ok too. My LHS said Caster was the same as redcat LOL! But I know he has changed his mind when I went to his track last week and actually past him and was able to stay in front and run with him. Oh by the way he has about $600 more into his truggy.

[razzor]

Id suggest seeing that you are a relative newb that you dont expect too much from your equipment and take the learning curve in stride and keep in mind why we do this sport/hobby and that is to have FUN.

[vnmsgt]

Always remember too that stuff will break, it happens and is part of the fun for me, rebuilding and fixing. I love that stuff! Nothing like seeing a part fly off because of something stupid you did and are like ooooooohhhhhh thats gonna look bad when I get to it LOL!

[bc24fl]

Yeah I don't let it bother me. In fact, I like it because there are no serious expectations of me doing any real damage. Just fun right :) .

[vnmsgt]

Sure already started. I keep hearing caster who??? Even the LHS never heard of caster.

My friends are telling me I'm dumb for not getting into Losi or another proven brand. Hopefully I can put an end to that thinking. It would be pretty embarrising for them if this rtr destroys there kit cars. ?&^

I'll be posting results soon.

You did see what is says at the bottom of my posts right? Don't jump on the bandwagon... CRUSH IT!!!:D

[bc24fl]

Always remember too that stuff will break, it happens and is part of the fun for me, rebuilding and fixing. I love that stuff! Nothing like seeing a part fly off because of something stupid you did and are like ooooooohhhhhh thats gonna look bad when I get to it LOL!

Yeah I know the feeling. I crashed my $800 P51 to pieces on my first flight. It was funny until I took the peices home and the wife said WTF???!!!! What hunny that? That's only a $10 fix. :confused:

[bc24fl]

Ok just received the K8T RTR from vnmsgt and his company www.holeshothobbies.com (http://www.holeshothobbies.com). I'm sooo excited please see pics below (Comments to follow).

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m44/icarrion/CIMG0807.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m44/icarrion/CIMG0809.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m44/icarrion/CIMG0811.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m44/icarrion/CIMG0810.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m44/icarrion/CIMG0812.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m44/icarrion/CIMG0814.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m44/icarrion/CIMG0813.jpg

Ok my first impression is WOW!!!! This thing is very well built and amazed at the quality of the product. I think I robbed casterracing for the money I paid. ?&^

Ok after this excitement I began to look around the box and was a little surprised to see that it isn't really a RTR. Thankfully
vnmsgt included a plug / glow plug.

The body was ok but had no holes on the body... :eek: ARGGG!!!! This is probably a trivial task for most of you but newbies will screw this up quickly. Any suggestions?

The AM transmitter looked ok and had extra options I never had with my other car. Nothing spectacular but looks good enough for now.

The tail / wing looks nice and HAS HOLES!!!! ?&^. I likes me some holes boss!!! ;)

The compartment for the reciever batter is nice and spacious. I probably will upgrade this soon to replace the AA's needed to run.

The tires look ok to me. Although everyone here suggest to change them I'm not sure why? To me they look too big to be manueverable. Is that why?

Although I quickly skimmed through it, the manual is excellent with full color pics and details. Cool!!

Overall I'm very pleased and impressed with the quality and workmanship of the product. I don't know how in earth I'm going to break this thing (perhaps zigzag can provide me lessons). Everything is spacious and not crammed together like my other car.

Anyway I'm thinking of buying new crimefighter tires. What size do you recommend and should I also replace the wheels? I prefer an option that is roar legal for the truggy class.

Thanks again!

[vnmsgt]

The tires are really only good for bashing. They are too soft. Will not turn on a track nearly as good and the prolines. You will have to replace the wheels unless you want to bake them off like I do. If you can get some LPR prolines wheels and LPR tires. Depending of the track you can get either crimefighter's, bowties, or holeshots. LPR's are also cheaper than standard size MT tires like what is on the truck now. It will handle and turn WAY better with LPR's.

To cut the body you can put a dab of black paint on top of the body posts and then put the body on top in the position that it goes on the truck and then lift it off and you will see where you have to cut the holes. You can use a drill bit or dremel to cut them. Also take a look at other truggy pics and see how they cut the windows out for cooling and filling fuel.

[bc24fl]

The tires are really only good for bashing. They are too soft. Will not turn on a track nearly as good and the prolines. You will have to replace the wheels unless you want to bake them off like I do. If you can get some LPR prolines wheels and LPR tires. Depending of the track you can get either crimefighter's, bowties, or holeshots. LPR's are also cheaper than standard size MT tires like what is on the truck now. It will handle and turn WAY better with LPR's.

To cut the body you can put a dab of black paint on top of the body posts and then put the body on top in the position that it goes on the truck and then lift it off and you will see where you have to cut the holes. You can use a drill bit or dremel to cut them. Also take a look at other truggy pics and see how they cut the windows out for cooling and filling fuel.

Ah ok thanks! So you recommend these http://www.prolineracing.com/p-334-crime-fighter-lpr.aspx

?

[vnmsgt]

Oh yeah. That is what I have. I also use the Holeshots too. but the crimefighters are good all around.

[bc24fl]

Oh yeah. That is what I have. I also use the Holeshots too. but the crimefighters are good all around.

Ah ok. Is there a certain offset for the wheels I'm looking for or is it just standard all-around for this truggy?

[bc24fl]

Can anyone recommend what fuel they like? I have access to ol'donald 20%.. is that ok or should I go higher?

Also, the manual didn't specify a method for breaking in the engine. High speed passes / adjust needles ok??

[Mr Fusion]

Byrons fuel for me. 20% or 30% is ok.

Break in: You need to heat cycle the engine. This means get it up to normal operating temp @200*F and then let it cool, making sure the piston is at the bottom of the sleeve. (free to move, not locked at top dead center)

I'm no engine guru, but here's the basic routine.... (letting the engine cool between each tank)

Most guys run a tank or two with the engine at idle... with occasional throttle blips. Wrap a towel around the motor if needed, to get the temp up.

Then run a tank, working the throttle more... and maybe a higher idle too.

Then run a tank, driving around... not wide open throttle, or real hard driving.

Then let her rip on the next tank.

Some only do 1-2 tanks and some do like 10 tanks.

[vnmsgt]

Ah ok. Is there a certain offset for the wheels I'm looking for or is it just standard all-around for this truggy?

You need zero offset wheels. Do not get the half inch offset because the K8T already has wheel spacers.

I run Byrons 20% GEN2 fuel. I would recommend 20% because it has more fuel content. I just broke in my GO tech and it says to idle 2 tanks and then run 10 tanks in figure 8 or so at about half throttle and then start leaning it out. Traxxas is the same way except for running it only 4-5 tanks which should be fine for a RTR motor.

[razzor]

Some of the local racers have gone to half offset wheels and changed to the std buggy hubs. They say its what is working for them.
Not sure how but i need to ask and get some info.

[vnmsgt]

Some of the local racers have gone to half offset wheels and changed to the std buggy hubs. They say its what is working for them.
Not sure how but i need to ask and get some info.

You just take the pin out of the hub on the K8T and install the buggy hub is all. Fits perfect. Then with the offset wheels it it is the same width as before.

[bc24fl]

Thanks and I'll try out all suggestions.

Is it roar legal to run buggy tires/wheels in the truggy class? Is it very common?

Thanks!

[Mr Fusion]

You can use buggy hubs, but with the truggy half offset wheels. You don't run buggy wheels on the truggy.

Running buggy wheels/tires is not common... and I doubt it's legal?

[razzor]

Its definately not legal.
What we where reffering to is the difference between the buggy hubs and the truggy hubs.

buggy
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y236/razzor13bt/MUGE0205.jpg

truggy
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y236/razzor13bt/612c_2.jpg

[bc24fl]

Ah ok, I see the difference. Thanks.

[bc24fl]

Why are there no side guards on caster vehicles or K8T?

Took the car out to the track and it appeared that the folks down here were somewhat impressed with the looks of the car. The biggest question I got was "what about parts?". Most here feel uncomfortable that they can't get parts locally. They joked alot and said "You'll enjoy it until it breaks." Meh..

Will Caster sell parts/kits to LHS at a resalable price?

[hakmazter]

Absolutely. they are set up to be a profitable line. Please tell your LHS to contact us and we will get them set up as a dealer. I think they will be pleasantly surprised.

Mike

[bc24fl]

Absolutely. they are set up to be a profitable line. Please tell your LHS to contact us and we will get them set up as a dealer. I think they will be pleasantly surprised.

Mike

Ah ok thanks Hak.

Can someone tell me what engine I have and provide a linkey to the manufacturer website. I'd like to read up some. I believe it's a Force .28 but not sure.

Does anyone have experience with modded motors and is it worth the price? Are they roar legal? With respect to the "GO" / "Force" engines that Caster uses is there another one for the truggy that stands out. I've been looking at LRP .28, Ninja, Rossi, GRP, OS Vspec. What's hype and whats good? My first impression is that italian motors are best as most of the champion lineups use them. Should I follow suit and are they worth the $$$?

Thanks!

[razzor]

The engine is a Force 25 in the RTR Truggy.
The engine has ample grunt to get you around the track and in capable hands can be very competitive at club level.
If anything for the truggy i would suggest you get a good clutch setup to help put that power down.

[vnmsgt]

Ah ok thanks Hak.

Can someone tell me what engine I have and provide a linkey to the manufacturer website. I'd like to read up some. I believe it's a Force .28 but not sure.

Does anyone have experience with modded motors and is it worth the price? Are they roar legal? With respect to the "GO" / "Force" engines that Caster uses is there another one for the truggy that stands out. I've been looking at LRP .28, Ninja, Rossi, GRP, OS Vspec. What's hype and whats good? My first impression is that italian motors are best as most of the champion lineups use them. Should I follow suit and are they worth the $$$?

Thanks!

It does come with a force .25. I would suggest getting a GO motor, not because I sell them but because they give you about the same performance as the italian motors at about half the price. Check out www.rctech.net, in the nitro off road section they have about 90 pages of Go Tech info!

Oh and about your friends saying you will have fun till it breaks? Well we will see who is laughing when there LHS distributor takes 7-10 days to get them there part that most likely there LHS will not carry and you get yours in 2-3 days and back out on the track!

[vnmsgt]

Also the side mud guards are worth getting I did after running my K8T a couple times. You have to get the buggy ones, they bolt right on.

[vnmsgt]

..:#$

[cold_reboot]

Hey vnm, how did the illusion body fit with the stone guards on? I put the Pro Line Crowd Pleaser 2.0 for the Mugen on mine and with the mud guards on it's pretty wide. Just had to put the bottom of the body outside of the stone guards because of the width with the guards on. It didn't distort the shape of the body any and I'm more than happy with the way it looks. Thinking I might heat the body up while it's installed (with a heat gun), then letting it cool to room temp to see if it'll hold the shape any. Just wondered how the illusion fit, thinking about picking that one up next. I also think the Crowd Pleaser 2.0 for the Ofna Jammin is supposed to fit pretty well.

[vnmsgt]

Hey vnm, how did the illusion body fit with the stone guards on? I put the Pro Line Crowd Pleaser 2.0 for the Mugen on mine and with the mud guards on it's pretty wide. Just had to put the bottom of the body outside of the stone guards because of the width with the guards on. It didn't distort the shape of the body any and I'm more than happy with the way it looks. Thinking I might heat the body up while it's installed (with a heat gun), then letting it cool to room temp to see if it'll hold the shape any. Just wondered how the illusion fit, thinking about picking that one up next. I also think the Crowd Pleaser 2.0 for the Ofna Jammin is supposed to fit pretty well.

My Illuzion was the same as you just described. The side guards push it out slightly but look fine. The body itself fits perfect just you cannot use the holes marked in front of the body for your mounting posts. You have to drill them in a different spot. I assume the Jammin one will fit because the stock body is a Jammin shaped body.

[bc24fl]

Thanks for the info guys. I guess it's this one http://www.ofna.com/pdf/eng-force25.pdf .

[vnmsgt]

Thanks for the info guys. I guess it's this one http://www.ofna.com/pdf/eng-force25.pdf .

I cannot remember if the manual of the RTR had part numbers for the motor. Did it? If so see if the part numbers are the same. Either way I think you are right about that being the motor.

[bc24fl]

I cannot remember if the manual of the RTR had part numbers for the motor. Did it? If so see if the part numbers are the same. Either way I think you are right about that being the motor.

No it did not but I'm good now... thx.

[bc24fl]

Maintanence for my first car was as follows:

1. Remove air filter, soak in hot soap and water, dry, soak in air filter oil (I heard I can use synthetic light oil. Is this true or should I go with hobby specific oils )
2. Open throttle squirt of wd40
3. Remove glow plug squirt wd40
4. Squirt wd40 in carburetor outlet pour out excess.
5. Cycle engine so internals get lubricated.

Is there anything else I need to do.

Thanks.

[vnmsgt]

Save yourself some money and go to a motorcycle dealer and buy a can of air filter spray oil. You get a whole can for price of a small oz. bottle at the hobby shop. I have had my 1 can last over a year now for about 5-6 bucks for the can.

[Lee_Jones]

Maintanence for my first car was as follows:

1. Remove air filter, soak in hot soap and water, dry, soak in air filter oil (I heard I can use synthetic light oil. Is this true or should I go with hobby specific oils )
2. Open throttle squirt of wd40
3. Remove glow plug squirt wd40
4. Squirt wd40 in carburetor outlet pour out excess.
5. Cycle engine so internals get lubricated.

Is there anything else I need to do.

Thanks.

I would not use WD40 at all. it will cause your carb. barrel to stick. trust me on this one, I see this everyday. Get yourself some after run oil.

[razzor]

Do not use WD40 as a after run !!!
I have been using 0w30 or 5w30 synthetic car oil like Mobil1, Castrol Edge and Petronas Syntium for a few years and have had no hassles and am confident it keeps the bearings a lot happier :)
Someguys also use transmission oil but i noticed rust spots in engines that where stored with it.
A 500ml can isnt expensive and it also works great for lubing bearings and brass bushings in my various rc cars.
I just top up my old Trinity royal oil containers when they get low.

[bc24fl]

Wow, I got alot of bad advice in the manual of my first car (jato). Good to know.

[Lee_Jones]

Wow, I got alot of bad advice in the manual of my first car (jato). Good to know.

I talked to Tim Roberts back at Rd 1 of the South series and he said they should be changing there manuals. I know Picco's are really bad about this problem and the 3.3's. If it starts to stick you can pull the carb barrel out and soak it in after run oil. This is what we do at the shop and it works fine. I am sure there are other ways of doing this, but this is what Traxxas recommended to us.

[bc24fl]

Went to the track yesterday and was warming the K8t up a bit on grass when the car took off like a bat from hell. Sure enough someone was using my frequency even after the Track owner told me no-one was (arggH!!). I don’t like this and am willing to change out the transmitter and receiver. Anything you guys recommend? I guess I need to go PCM so that there are no more radio conficts… correct?

I also had some start up issues (w pull start). I’m considering getting a starter box or (if possible) try to convert the engine to a roto start.

[cold_reboot]

I bought a Spektrum DSM system (based off my experience with my DX7 Air system) for my surface vehicles. Never have to worry about frequencies with DSM again. A lot of companies are making the DSM systems now-a-days if there is a manufacturer you prefer. The 2 Channel Spektrum system can be had for about 150. 3 Channel about 200. The great thing about the computer radio's is the programability. You can program your end points and any number of other things. I don't think i could go back to analog at this point.

[bc24fl]

I bought a Spektrum DSM system (based off my experience with my DX7 Air system) for my surface vehicles. Never have to worry about frequencies with DSM again. A lot of companies are making the DSM systems now-a-days if there is a manufacturer you prefer. The 2 Channel Spektrum system can be had for about 150. 3 Channel about 200. The great thing about the computer radio's is the programability. You can program your end points and any number of other things. I don't think i could go back to analog at this point.

Why would someone need 3 channels?

What is programming your end points?

It should plug right into my servo's or do I need to replace?

Many Thanks.

[Mr Fusion]

You don't need the 3rd channel.

End points... means adjusting/limiting how far the servo can move. Using this, you can set the brakes and steering so there is not excessive servo movement, etc.

Plug and play, yes...

[vnmsgt]

Endpoints can also adjust how much you wheels turn from left to right. With a standard radio they will turn only a certain amount but with a spektrum you can adjust the servo so they can turn alot more and your car will corner 10 time better. Get a spektrum, you cannot beat them for the money and warranty is awesome and never have to worry about radio frequencies again. BTW how did it go with the K8T after you little mishap?

[bc24fl]

Endpoints can also adjust how much you wheels turn from left to right. With a standard radio they will turn only a certain amount but with a spektrum you can adjust the servo so they can turn alot more and your car will corner 10 time better. Get a spektrum, you cannot beat them for the money and warranty is awesome and never have to worry about radio frequencies again. BTW how did it go with the K8T after you little mishap?


Will this work?
http://www.hobbysuperstore.com/browse.cfm/4,10783.html

It missed the main steet by 2 feet and ran into the fence. There would be no car right now if it ran in the street.

[cold_reboot]

Yup, thats the same system I bought, but I got mine from the LHS for 143. He's always a little cheaper. You might also look on eBay. A lot of the store fronts break the systems up so you might be able to get just the radio and receiver a little cheaper. The 290 Servo that it comes with is pretty worthless but can keep it for a backup in an extreme pinch. The 590 they include for steering is metal gear and would actually make a better throttle servo than a steering, not enough torque (it's only like 83 at 6volts). eBay might be your best bet.

Just did a quick search over there and found two selling with no servo's...one used a few times by the seller for 115. Brand new one in the box with no servo's for 134

[vnmsgt]

I have the same one and got it used and it works great. But for the extra 15 bucks or so I would get the new one.

[bc24fl]

Ok already purchased it. Looks nice.

Hopefully someone can help me out. The rtr K8t has the Force 25 pull/s engine. In the manual (online) it says it recommends “USE LONG GLOW PLUG WITHOUT IDLE BAR, OFNA/PICCO #51007 IS RECOMMENDED”. When to LHS and they gave me the following:


LC3 Hot OS plug
MC9 Power Plug Dynamic
Can I use these?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

[cold_reboot]

Dunno about those plugs much. All I've ever used are the OS #8's and a McCoy (forget plug #)....I've gotten more life out of the McCoy than any other (haven't used any of the sack of OS 8's yet... I don't even remember what plug it is it's been in the ST-1 for so long). Now it's turned into "see how much longer it'll last!" thing like a 84 Chevy with a million miles on the original motor. I'll prolly pick up some more McCoy's when the 8's run out. What does the engine recommend?

[razzor]

any 6 heat range long reach plug will do.
I use Nosram and Axe plugs.

[bc24fl]

any 6 heat range long reach plug will do.
I use Nosram and Axe plugs.

Ah ok but how do I know if it's 6 heat range ?

[bc24fl]

[quote=cold_reboot;2156What does the engine recommend?[/quote]

It recommends OFNA/PICCO #51007 but either LHS didn't have them.

[cold_reboot]

That plug is a "Standard" Medium Heat plug. Any "Standard" Medium heat plug will serve you just fine. I'd probably try the McCoy MC-8's. They are Long bodied and Medium heat. I know a lot of people get great life (some multiple gallons) on one plug and they are on the cheaper end of the price scale at 5 bucks and change. O.S. #8's would probably work just fine for you too...you can usually find them just about anywhere because of thier popularity across engines (as long as your engine isn't european)

[cold_reboot]

Just remember that if your still breaking it in, break in can be hard on a plug, don't be surprised if a new plug dies after a few tanks...or one tank. Your not doing anything wrong and it'll stop after break in. Just pick up a handful when you get a plug.

[bc24fl]

Sorry for the dumb questions but you're saying that the plug "LC3 HOT" from OS is a medium heat plug?

[cold_reboot]

No, it should be a Hot plug according to it's name. O.S. #8's are Medium/Hot

[vnmsgt]

My friend loves the McCoy MC59 plugs. I use the Megatech Q-59's and they work great, I think they are the same as the McCoys too.

[bc24fl]

Does anyone know what the default setting is for low speed needle on the Force 25? The manual doesn't say specifically. I'm not getting a good throttle response.

[cold_reboot]

What is it doing? If it starts to spin up then dies it's too lean (lack of fuel). If it bogs before spinning up it's too rich (too much fuel). I've found the easiest way for me to set my LSN is to open the throttle wide open for as long as room allows (5 or 6 seconds for me) then cut the gas to idle and let it idle for 4 or 5 seconds, then punch it wide open. If it bogs it's too rich, if it dies it's too lean.

[bc24fl]

What is it doing? If it starts to spin up then dies it's too lean (lack of fuel). If it bogs before spinning up it's too rich (too much fuel). I've found the easiest way for me to set my LSN is to open the throttle wide open for as long as room allows (5 or 6 seconds for me) then cut the gas to idle and let it idle for 4 or 5 seconds, then punch it wide open. If it bogs it's too rich, if it dies it's too lean.

Yes it bogs. I leaned the HSN until it reached 300 in temp and no more perfomance gains then richened out to avoid increase above 270. Take off is boggy so I'll try and lean the LSN tonight.

Will the LSN affect engine temps?

Thanks.

[vnmsgt]

Yes it bogs. I leaned the HSN until it reached 300 in temp and no more perfomance gains then richened out to avoid increase above 270. Take off is boggy so I'll try and lean the LSN tonight.

Will the LSN affect engine temps?

Thanks.
Yes it will have an affect on engine temps. Just like the high speed if you richen it the temps will drop but you have to turn the LSN more to achieve that than the HSN. The HSN is really what regulates most of the fuel. You will have to richen the HSN even more than you have now if it is running 270 because if you have to lean out the bottom it the temps will go higher. I would set the HSN close to where it was stock, maybe a half turn or so leaner and then if it still bogs and leaning it out will not help then lean out the LSN about 3/4 turn and see what happens. Always remember you starting points though so you can always go back to stock.

[cold_reboot]

LSN really doesn't have any effect on running temps, maybe a few degree's at idle. If it's Boggy you need to lean it. Think of the needle housing as a clock and lean it an "hour" at a time. Keep leaning until the boggyness go's away and it springs to life when you punch it.

Meant to ask earlier and forgot, what glow plug did you finally settle on?

[vnmsgt]

LSN really doesn't have any effect on running temps, maybe a few degree's at idle. If it's Boggy you need to lean it. Think of the needle housing as a clock and lean it an "hour" at a time. Keep leaning until the boggyness go's away and it springs to life when you punch it.
You go out and run your car for a quarter tank and check the temp and then richen the LSN up 3/4 or so give or take and I guarantee the temp will drop more than 5 degrees. More fuel equals cooler running, not necessarily better running but cooler. I do it all the time. If my motor is running great and my temps seem a little high and if I richen up the HSN and it runs too rich and start chugging I put the HSN back to where it was and richen up my LSN about a half turn or more and the temp will drop 5-10 degrees and still run just as good and not really notice anything.

[cold_reboot]

Ok, maybe a few degree's everywhere :p . But if we're talking about 5 or 10 degree's I'd rather leave the LSN alone. I never used the LSN to regulate temp. Temps are relative to the engine anyway. My Thunder tiger runs like poop till it gets past 250 and performs best around 260-270. Friend's 8T likes right around 200. The LRP I'm breaking in only got to 213 night before last and was running like a stuck pig at that temp. Thats why i told him to tune for performance, then richen the HSN. 300 is definately too hot for most engines.

[bc24fl]

The reason why I asked was that the rc "pros" at my track started tweeking the LSN and HSN and I don't know exactly what was done. So going back to stock is not possible right now. Next run I'll lean out the LSN and hopefully see some good performance.

On another note I will be practicing at the track on Thur (I believe) so I'm thinking of youtubing it so you guys can see a true rookie work magic (OR NOT) with the caster. ;)

Oh and btw, virtualrc.com is coming out with version 4 with new off-road cars. If I were caster I'd probably push to have both caster cars in there sim. Good night yall!

Thanks.

[razzor]

VRC V4 comes out late this year :)
Bud when at the track and tuning just remember take your time and make small adjustments.

[bc24fl]

Ok ran the car last night. Boy can this car take jumps and landings well. Anyway, after tuning and more tuning I finally got the engine to run between 250 - 265. I think I'll leave it that way for now. I have a couple questions for you guys.

1. Do you guys cut open a square hole in the front of the window so that it cools the engine? I did it on the side for easy fueling.

2. **BIGGIE** How can you remove dirt from inside the cooling head where the plug sits. I couldn't put after run oil in there because I was afraid to remove the plug. For my last car I used wd40 but It didn't work too well. What about ethynal??

3. The car takes "wide" turns. Do I have to modify the steering on the stock config to get it to steer better? This track is tight and If I don't make wide turns I end up hitting the "medium". Any ideas? Do I have to program the end points on the radio "spectrum 2".

4. The turn buckle came loose twice. I read on the forum there was an upgrade for it. It only happened when I screw up and crash. Is it by design for major crashes so that you don't break an arm or something? (BTW The major crashes where climbing the wall and flying off the track. Almost hit a few cars =) )

Any help would be much appreciated.

[BigC123]

you need to invest in a air compressor if you want to keep your car clean. also make sure your servo spring is tight and your steering throw is good ?&^

[BigC123]

here are some pics to help you out.
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh292/BigC123ZX1R/th_2008_0303Rcpics0009.jpg (http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh292/BigC123ZX1R/2008_0303Rcpics0009.jpg)
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh292/BigC123ZX1R/th_2008_0303Rcpics0008.jpg (http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh292/BigC123ZX1R/2008_0303Rcpics0008.jpg)
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh292/BigC123ZX1R/th_2008_0303Rcpics0007.jpg (http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh292/BigC123ZX1R/2008_0303Rcpics0007.jpg)

[bc24fl]

I'm using the stnd servos that came with the RTR. Are these not good enough?

[mikey]

you mean teh Truggy???

[bc24fl]

you mean teh Truggy??? Yes RTR Truggy.

[vnmsgt]

Look at the race mods/setups threads and there is a ton of info for the turnbuckles and making them captured. Also your servo save has to be tightened almost all the way down because the stock spring is weak. A Mugen one can be installed and is stiffer so you do not have to do that but my stock one is still in and fine. As far as the servo's go it would be good to put the stock steering one on the throttle and get a better one for the steering if you are going to race. Hitec 645MG's are good to start off with and cheap at about 40 bucks with 140oz of torque. You could step up to the Hitec 5955 which has 333oz of torque but they are almost $100.

[cold_reboot]

Most of us cut a hole in the front windshield for two reasons; (1) you can use something simple like a zip tie on your fuel tank lid (there's a small slot in the tank opposite the way it opens..toward the engine). If you look at pics you'll see the tie in a lot of pics sticking out of the front windshield, that way you can open the tank without having to cram your fingers in there. (2) Cooling, depending on your engine temp it'snot ALWAYS necessary but is still usually cut anyway because; (a) more cooling never hurts; and (b) the zip tie makes it much easier to refuel in a hurry (such as in a long main).

(2) I use a can of compressed air like you use for a computer keyboard to get the gunk out of the head. You can get a can of it at Wal-Mart or any office supply place like Office Depot (if you don't have the means to get an air compressor). I use the cans of compressed air because I can throw it in my toolbox and take it with me.

(3) Tighten up the servo saver spring, like vnm said, it's pretty weak, tightening it up will help tremendously.

(4) You can put captured pivot balls on your steering. I know Reckward Tuning makes some in 7MM (stock balls are 7mm as well). Or you can do the mod a lot on here have done (check the faqs and tips forum to find it). The Reckward Tuning pivots are 16.99 for two, a little pricey for two pivot balls, but if your unable to do the mod because of lack of tools to do it with, you can go to the Reckwards. You can find them on AMainHobbies.com. The description on them says (Mugen) MBX5T and something else, but they'll bolt right on to the Caster. I plan on getting some but they are currently sold out. Of course if it's happening on bad crashes and your not competitively racing, popping a turnbuckle back on is cheaper than replacing a steering servo if the hit managed to strip the gears, or break something else had it not takin the hit and popped off.


:D

[lowlife88]

Depends on the fuel, air temp/humidity, and what exactly you are tuning for.(more torque or top end).
I personally run only Go motors - 5-port silver head and the new 3-port race spec. I use O.S. P3's hot plugs, Odonnell 97T medium temp, and Odonnell 77T medium/hot plugs. The O'donnell plugs seem to last longer.

[bc24fl]

Ok I somehow managed to strip the clutch bell. Argg. Anyway, I tried taking it apart yesterday but that thing is on tight. Any ideas of loosening it up or what other tool I can use? It appears that I also have to remove the center diff gear as well. Is that correct?

Also, I would prefer to have the clutch bell for the practice race tomorrow. Is this clutch bell 13t standard or mugen-like so I can pick up locally?

Thanks.

P.S. Is this common to strip a clutch bell. Any prevention tips?

[razzor]

Take the motor out to strip the clutch bell.
If its on tight its probable the bearings overheated.
Use a bearing puller or pry it of with 2 flat screw drivers.
Once off clean the shaft with fine (800) sandpaper and polish clean.
Clutch bell is the same as the Mugen/OFNA/GS/Teammagic/HPI/Hot Bodies
From what i can recal only Kyosho has a slightly smaller bell.

[cold_reboot]

I bought an Ofna 14T vented bell last time I went to my local shop, Any standard type of clutch bell will work...and most clutch bells are pretty standard, almost like a universal part, only a few companies have a more proprietary bell....Redcat comes to mind. The OFNA bells....HPI bells...Associated...you get the idea, will all work fine, if the bell looks like yours, it'll work. I usually get the OFNA bells because they usually come with the new bearings, some don't. Also, The Ofna vented clutch bell has slots cut it in, the idea is more air flow will help cool the bearings and clutch and allow debris to be ejected from the bell interior easier. You might give one of those a shot. I haven't put mine on yet, because the stock bell is still alive and kickin. When you do install a new bell, make sure you shim it to have some play, if there's no play in it to give the bearings some room you'll overheat another pair and likely seize them. Ofna also makes a nice clutch bell shim kit that has all kinds of shims in it. You should use shims that are smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing itself, so the shim will touch the inner bearing ring but not the outer (think of it as a donut, the hole in the center is the inner ring and the outside diameter is the second ring). It sounds more complicated than it is...lol just use a shim smaller than the bearings circumference.

[vnmsgt]

The kyosho clutch bell will NOT work. I have tried it from my ST-RR I had. Yes the Ofna bells and CEN bells will work and I have used them but you guys should try the CASTER clutch bells. That is what I ONLY use now and they have been great and also cheaper than most other companies. Caster has the regular bells and hardened bells. I just get the hardened bells. I also use the Caster 7075 aluminum clutch shoes and some of my friends too and they have lasted longer and stayed in better condition than some of the so called "long life" clutch shoes on the market. Try some of the caster stuff guys and you will be happy with it.

[cold_reboot]

I do have the Caster 14T hardened on it right now, picked up the OFNA because I wanted to try a vented. The Caster bell hasn't blued yet from heat but my Thunder tiger bell is blued from getting so hot, never lost a bearing yet tho. Wanted to try a vented bell to see if it would actually help with cooling. Heat is the enemy of all clutches and bearings =)


The reason I mentioned other bells working on his Caster is he can probably walk into his local hobby shop and walk out with a new bell and bearings (OFNA's are about 16.99). Nothing wrong with the Caster bells at all, mines been great, but I'm sure he'd rather be out driving his Caster. :)

[bc24fl]

Yes correct, i'd rather go with caster but I want to be up before the practice race tomorrow. vnmsgt, I do need a screw set of the entire car. If you have that I'll place an order. If not I believe the mugen screws will work too (or tony's screws).

thx

[cold_reboot]

Another thing, the easiest way to get your gear mesh set is with a piece of typing paper. Tear a narrow piece a couple inches long and feed it into the gear mesh of the bell and spur. You want nice tight folds left by the gears. If the gears eat through the paper it's too tight, if it's just wavey your mesh is too loose. Nice folds is what your looking for. Once you set the mesh tighten the engine up some more and check your mesh with the paper again (new piece...torqing the screws can throw your mesh off slightly sometimes). Once your happy with it, pull one engine mount screw out (bottom of the chassis) and blue loc tite it, put it back in and torque it down, then do the same thing screw by screw till all 4 are done. I usually check my mesh one more time after that to make sure torqing the screws down didn't throw it off. If it did, you can re-adjust before the loc tite sets. Make sure you don't use red loc tite, it's permanent. Blue loc tite still allows the screws to be removed with hand tools.

[vnmsgt]

Yes correct, i'd rather go with caster but I want to be up before the practice race tomorrow. vnmsgt, I do need a screw set of the entire car. If you have that I'll place an order. If not I believe the mugen screws will work too (or tony's screws).

thx

I'll find out today for you. I am not sure caster has that but will let you know as soon as I talk to cam. I would not mind having one myself if they have one!:)

[cold_reboot]

[quote=bc24fl;2419]Ok I somehow managed to strip the clutch bell. Argg. Anyway, I tried taking it apart yesterday but that thing is on tight. Any ideas of loosening it up or what other tool I can use? It appears that I also have to remove the center diff gear as well. Is that correct?


You shouldn't have to remove the center spur gear. Remove the engine from the chassis with the mount still attached to the engine by removing the mount screws on the bottom of the chassis. Thats where all of your engine adjustment is for the gear mesh.

[bc24fl]

I'll find out today for you. I am not sure caster has that but will let you know as soon as I talk to cam. I would not mind having one myself if they have one!:)

Don't be so lazy and buy yourself a few kits and part it out! You need to be my supplier dammit.

<*&

;)

[bc24fl]

[quote=bc24fl;2419]Ok I somehow managed to strip the clutch bell. Argg. Anyway, I tried taking it apart yesterday but that thing is on tight. Any ideas of loosening it up or what other tool I can use? It appears that I also have to remove the center diff gear as well. Is that correct?


You shouldn't have to remove the center spur gear. Remove the engine from the chassis with the mount still attached to the engine by removing the mount screws on the bottom of the chassis. Thats where all of your engine adjustment is for the gear mesh.

Now that I think about it... it was a pretty dumb question. I need to stop drinking so much at night. ;)

Thanks.

[cold_reboot]

No dumb questions :)

All this tech talk has me wanting to go home and bust out the K8T. Haven't ran it since I put the new tires, wheels and high downforce wing on it. Record breaking heat here in Texas this week! Makes doing anything outside miserable...no matter how much fun it is.

I'll be accepting donations to build an indoor air conditioned track.

[vnmsgt]

Don't be so lazy and buy yourself a few kits and part it out! You need to be my supplier dammit.

<*&

;)

I have thought about that but not sure there is enough demand for parts that much yet. Do not want to have a couple kits all in pieces just sitting there. Would be nice for some to buy complete assemblies of something.

[razzor]

Yes correct, i'd rather go with caster but I want to be up before the practice race tomorrow. vnmsgt, I do need a screw set of the entire car. If you have that I'll place an order. If not I believe the mugen screws will work too (or tony's screws).

thx

Caster has a complete screw set.
p/n ZX1R-SB screw bag set or it should be screw box.

[vnmsgt]

Caster has a complete screw set.
p/n ZX1R-SB screw bag set or it should be screw box.

Cool I guess I will order me a couple sets. Thanks. I could not find it on there site before but I put in the part number and it came up.

[bc24fl]

Just noticed some screws loose on the chasis. Does the rtr come thread locked?

[cold_reboot]

Any number of screws installed by the factory may be loose when you get it (you may even find some cross threaded lock nuts...my Thunder Tiger had 3mm lock nuts cross threaded on the ackerman). You should always go over the vehicle when you get it...from any manufacturer, before running it. Depends on what the screw is going into, metal to metal should have thread lock, metal to plastic not necessary. My K8T Factory Pro kit had thead loc from the factory, but I still tore it apart (to get to the differentials) and re applied thread locker. Thats not to say a few may not have gotten overlooked by the person who assembled yours at the factory. Things happen, people lose track of where they are when they're putting in thier 4578th screw of the day, thats why you should always check um :).

[bc24fl]

Any number of screws installed by the factory may be loose when you get it (you may even find some cross threaded lock nuts...my Thunder Tiger had 3mm lock nuts cross threaded on the ackerman). You should always go over the vehicle when you get it...from any manufacturer, before running it. Depends on what the screw is going into, metal to metal should have thread lock, metal to plastic not necessary. My K8T Factory Pro kit had thead loc from the factory, but I still tore it apart (to get to the differentials) and re applied thread locker. Thats not to say a few may not have gotten overlooked by the person who assembled yours at the factory. Things happen, people lose track of where they are when they're putting in thier 4578th screw of the day, thats why you should always check um :).

Yeah. To be honest I didn't even know the screws had to be thread locked until today. Now that I revisited the manual it does show in graphic and text the nut lock liquid and where to lock nuts. This also explains why the clutch bell screw is so hard to remove.

[bc24fl]

Found out that I was missing 2 engine mount (the ones under the chassis) screws. They probably came loose on the track. I should have checked the screws before every drive. That's why the clutch bell stripped. Oh well lesson learned.

Last night I replaced the bell and replaced both servos with Ace RC DS1313 for $70 each. They have about 170 torque and from just turning them on it's obvious they are stronger than stock. I'll let you guys know how it drives. Oh and if any of you get them you'll have to dremel the servo holder a little so that it fits (only throttle, the steering fit right in).

Question: My engine mount is 2 piece and I know the kit comes with 1 peice just like the prospec mb5xt. What is the benefit over the standard ones?

[cold_reboot]

Yup, thats why you lost your clutch bell so soon. Ask vnm about that, he's shredded one that way. Just make sure you thread lock the new ones, vibration from that tiny engine stroke and spinning crank will vibrate screws loose. They use fine thread machine screws for these things because they are less prone to backing out from vibration, but they still will without thread locker. I haven't seen the two piece that comes on the RTR so I can't comment on it. Unless it's just the two chunks of milled aluminum that bolt on either side of the crankcase then to the chassis. Thats what the Pro kit comes with anyway. Benefits of the quick change are you only have to set your gear mesh on the first install. If you remove the engine for maintainence or something the part bolted to the chassis stays there so when you bolt it back up, it's back exactly where it was.

[vnmsgt]

Question: My engine mount is 2 piece and I know the kit comes with 1 peice just like the prospec mb5xt. What is the benefit over the standard ones?

The Kit and RTR come with the same engine mounts. The upgraded one is a 3 piece quick release mount. The bottom is all one piece like the mugen but has 2 pieces on top (1 on each side) that the motor bolts to so you can remove your motor from the bottom mount from the top of the truck and put it back in without resetting your gear mesh. Works awesome and much stronger than stock.

[razzor]

You wont be dissapointed with the DS1313 servos they are really great value and work exceptionally well.

[cold_reboot]

Yup, the Ace servo's are one of the best bang for the buck Servo's on the market today...incidentally the Associated branded servo's are the same thing. I was going to go with the Ace's in my K8T but the LHS had the Hitec 5955 333oz for a few dollars more than the Ace's. So I went with the higher torque. :D

[bc24fl]

Do I have to remove the pull start functionality on the engine before it will start with a starter box? I tried starting it but the gear won't turn a full 360. If I do need to replace, does caster have the backplane I need? I didn't see it on the website. Thanks.

[cold_reboot]

Nope, it'll bumpstart with the pull start on it, I use a starter box on my TTR and it still has the pullstart. What box are you using? Might not be enough torque in the box to get past the pinch since your engine is still pretty new. Are you pre-heating your engine? Loosening the plug to lessen the compression then tightening it once it starts?

[razzor]

Check with Hak if they have the back plates in stock.
If not just check from any other brands that use Force engines, OFNA comes to mind.

[vnmsgt]

It should work but like reboot said your pinch might still be real tight. Have you broken in the motor already? If not you might want to just use the pullstart until it is broken in and the pinch loosened up some.

[bc24fl]

Yeah the motor is already broken in but it is fairly new. I'll heat it up with a hair dryer and try again. Thanks.

[bc24fl]

I really don't like the default engine air filter that the car comes with as it bumps into everything no matter where you turn it. Will this one work even though it's made for 2.5 traxxas motor?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHWU0

Or can you recommend on that will work and comfortably fit.

[vnmsgt]

The Kyosho ST-RR filters are a little more smaller and work good. You could also use the Hyper ST Pro air filter which is oval. Even the losi 8ight filter is small.

[bc24fl]

The Kyosho ST-RR filters are a little more smaller and work good. You could also use the Hyper ST Pro air filter which is oval. Even the losi 8ight filter is small.

Ok so it really doesn't matter the size I get. I really like the oval one that came with the jato 3.3. No tie raps needed and sits on the carb pretty tight.

[bc24fl]

Ok so it really doesn't matter the size I get. I really like the oval one that came with the jato 3.3. No tie raps needed and sits on the carb pretty tight.

What do you think of this kind (air can only get in from the top)?

http://www.xtownrc.com/catalog/images/tra5265.jpg

[hakmazter]

We are ordering the new oval ones tonight.....

[bc24fl]

We are ordering the new oval ones tonight.....

Can you submit a link so i can see it. Thanks.

[vnmsgt]

What do you think of this kind (air can only get in from the top)?

http://www.xtownrc.com/catalog/images/tra5265.jpg

Those suck only because it restricts airflow compared to the other filters. They get packed with dirt pretty easy.

[cold_reboot]

I bought a Pro-Line low profile (Oval) air filter for mine, mostly because I didn't know the kit would come with one. Went ahead and used the Pro Line on my K8T (also bought a pack of spare elements for the Pro Line) and was going to use the Kit filter on the TTR as a spare. The Pro Line works well, doesn't hit anything, I think the filter and spare elements were around 20 bux. Should be able to find them at a Hobby Shop if you wanted to try it out until Caster gets some.

[lowlife88]

I run the ofna oval filters myself. They seem to work great!!!

[bc24fl]

Thanks guys. I'll wait for the air filter pics from caster and place an order if I like them. I also need to purchase another spur gear so I'll wait. I'm good for now.

[bc24fl]

FYI:

Good news as the car looks to be running nicely and the engine appears to be tuned correctly. With the new servos.... steering is REALLY NICE!!

I still have to heat the engine with hair dryer though but after heating to about 160 the engine cracks nicely. I'll test her out tomorrow during practice racing and try to keep her on all four.

[TTR_EB4]

Umm hey guys, and BC24FL good luck tomorrow,very nice cars, im driving mine for the first time this weekend (racing it for the first time) ive been racing buggys since the start of the year, havnt raced in truggys yet,

And umm guys why does my K8T look nothing like bc24fl's? i looked at his pics on page 1 and my servo top plate is different, the servo saver, the shocktowers, looks a tad different, arent these ones the new ones? or is mine a old version?? the shocktowers are the same shape but mine are machined in, not just one hole piece,

vngmst: you know where pics of mine are on rctech so yer.

cheers
Mike

[bc24fl]

Umm hey guys, and BC24FL good luck tomorrow,very nice cars, im driving mine for the first time this weekend (racing it for the first time) ive been racing buggys since the start of the year, havnt raced in truggys yet,

And umm guys why does my K8T look nothing like bc24fl's? i looked at his pics on page 1 and my servo top plate is different, the servo saver, the shocktowers, looks a tad different, arent these ones the new ones? or is mine a old version?? the shocktowers are the same shape but mine are machined in, not just one hole piece,

vngmst: you know where pics of mine are on rctech so yer.

cheers
Mike


Can you post pics please or a link to the pics. Thanks.

[vnmsgt]

They are toward the bottom of this link on RCtech. He posts under the same name TTR EB4. http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=197682&page=2

[razzor]

He has the version before bc24fl one.
Basically anodising colour is different and they didnt machine the hole on the steering brace.

[bc24fl]

Ok I figured I'd update this thread with the latest pictures of my upgraded K8T.

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m44/icarrion/CIMG1271.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m44/icarrion/CIMG1267.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m44/icarrion/CIMG1266.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m44/icarrion/CIMG1268.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m44/icarrion/CIMG1269.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m44/icarrion/CIMG1270.jpg

[bc24fl]

Some more pics.. thanks to razzor and the community for the brake pad idea.

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m44/icarrion/CIMG1273.jpg


http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m44/icarrion/CIMG1275.jpg

[razzor]

looks good :)
What shocks do you have on there ?

[vnmsgt]

Now that is a Bad A$$ RTR version!! Those are TQ Racing SX8 Big Bores on there. BTW bc24l where did you get the GO stuff??:D

[bc24fl]

Yeah those are SX8 Big Bores I got a good price on I couldn't turn down. I'll comment about the rest of the stuff in a few.

[vnmsgt]

I think the only thing you need for that is a front swaybar! Should help it out some in the turns. It does look sweet though. Post some of those over at RCU.

Also what steering servo you running??

[bc24fl]

Ok the list of upgrades include:

- 2 DS1313 High Torque Servos and Spek 2 Receiver / Transmitter
- New Clutch / Spur Gear
- Ceramic 3 Clutch Shoe
- New Fuel Line
- Pro Twister Mods Go. 25 Engine with Go Pipe
- 8T Air Filter
- SX8 Big Bores
- Crime Fighter Wheel / Tires
- 150 cc Fuel Tank and Fuel Filter


I'd like to say that I spent several weeks researching what engine to get. I'd like to thank vnmsgt, cold reboot, and the Caster community for helping come to a better decision. After talking with Brian owner of Pro Twister Mods he assured me that I wouldn't have any problems with my GO engine carb (famous issue at RCU / RCTech Forums) and in the remote case I did he would repair / replace it for me free. I couldn't pass up the good offer for a modded race engine with pipe and some level of warranty / support. He also broke in the engine for me as well (thanks PTM). If any of you contact him please tell him bc24fl sent you :) .

Since I replaced the spur gear I put in 5k diff oil in the center so It may be a little less stable (quicker) but we will see tonight I hope.

I've learned alot about rc cars in the couple months I've been here because of all of you (thanks!).

[razzor]

5k oil in the center diff is a bit too thin !!! front tyres ballon terrible with 7k.

[bc24fl]

5k oil in the center diff is a bit too thin !!! front tyres ballon terrible with 7k.

Yeah I guess I'll find out soon as tonight I'm going to the track. That's all I had available when taking apart the diff to replace the spur gear.

Vnmsgt, if you have any oils PM price. What Caster oils do you have in stock?

[bc24fl]

Yeah I guess I'll find out soon as tonight I'm going to the track. That's all I had available when taking apart the diff to replace the spur gear.

Vnmsgt, if you have any oils PM price. What Caster oils do you have in stock?

Oh and by the way, when I took apart the diff there was hardly any oil in it so 5k is better than nothing. Perhaps????:confused::confused:

[vnmsgt]

Oh and by the way, when I took apart the diff there was hardly any oil in it so 5k is better than nothing. Perhaps????:confused::confused:

Yes better than nothing. I just have Fusion Shock fluids now, 30wt and 45wt to sell.

[bc24fl]

Oops, the pictures don't show it but I also put a single piece engine mount. No more clutch / spur alignments. SWEET!!!!

[hakmazter]

looks good :)
What shocks do you have on there ?

In about 5 days, they will be ebay specials. I guarantee that and I have never seen them before.

Maybe you can buy them Razzor...I'll tell him to put "gift" on the package...


For sale.

Slightly used TQ Racing shocks. Worked great for the money, but decided to upgrade to Caster Racing Big Bores.....no reserve.....

[bc24fl]

In about 5 days, they will be ebay specials. I guarantee that and I have never seen them before.

Maybe you can buy them Razzor...I'll tell him to put "gift" on the package...


For sale.

Slightly used TQ Racing shocks. Worked great for the money, but decided to upgrade to Caster Racing Big Bores.....no reserve.....

I wish that were the case but couldn't run tonight as the track was wet? :mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:

So maybe in 6 days. ;)

[rpg711]

In about 5 days, they will be ebay specials. I guarantee that and I have never seen them before.

Maybe you can buy them Razzor...I'll tell him to put "gift" on the package...


For sale.

Slightly used TQ Racing shocks. Worked great for the money, but decided to upgrade to Caster Racing Big Bores.....no reserve.....
Where? I wanna link

[razzor]

No thank you !!
Will be running Caster ;)