Reboots K8T

[cold_reboot]

Hey all, finished the K8T this evening, took some pics of the finished new hotness and I'll post um when I can. Hey vnmsgt, the right rear wheel hub nut was cross threaded, threads on the hub and nut both were mangled, possibly from the factory. I dont blame Caster and I certainly dont blame you, just an fyi. Might wanna check any others you have. Course it may have also happened in shipping being knocked around. An easy way to combat any shipping damage on the hubs is to turn the nuts in till it hits the ends of the threads (box is pretty narrow, my hubs had almost rubbed holes clear through the box). All the wheel nuts were on the very end. Like I said I don't blame Caster at all, things slip through...you should all see some of the ARF airplanes I've gotten....wing bolts drilled crooked...any number of cross threaded bolts. My TTR had a cross threaded lock nuts on the steering arm...it happens. I do want to say...I LOVE this truggy, it looks like it's screaming sitting still. Finish is better than my TTR (which I'm now selling to my brother-in-law to buy Big Bores when they get here and a number of other upgrades). Oh, on the wheel hubs, no worries, I had some +16mm's for an 8T with 17mm hubs which went right on...shhhh don't tell anyone.
This isnt the "ode to vnmsgt" body tho, this is the first one I whipped up. Stock plastics were dyed black. I haven't put the other stickers on the wing just yet and I need to clean up the wheels, you get the idea tho. :D The paint on the body is actually a metallic candy apple red that fades to black at the back. Pics turned out a little bright and I didn't feel like editing the saturation and brightness lol. Ok, new thread, Ziggy thinks I'm trying to Hijack his :p

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk69/cold_reboot/Caster001.jpg

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk69/cold_reboot/Caster003.jpg

http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk69/cold_reboot/Caster002.jpg



http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk69/cold_reboot/Caster004.jpg
Last edited by cold_reboot : Today at 01:37 PM.

[vnmsgt]

How about we all make a thread of our own truggies and buggies? That would be funny! Oh reboot, one thing to do if you have not read is on the servo saver spring you pretty much have to tighten it all the way up for the truggy to steer good. The spring is real weak. I did that to mine and it made a big difference. Some people still say it is week tightened up all the way so you can buy the Mugen spring and replace it with that. I have a mugen spring but have not installed it yet because right now I am ok with mine.

[cold_reboot]

I already tightened it and added the mugen spring to wish list at AMain, I'll pick it up next time I make an order. Unless Caster gets a stiffer one, then I'll get that one with the Big Bores.

[cold_reboot]

Pulled the center diff case out last night and used a little fatter gasket included with the kit. The seepage seems to have stopped. I was surprised to see that it wasn't around the screw I think I was close to stripping out. I'm going to order a few extra diff cases when I get some more cash in the pocket. Thinking I may try to thread one of the new ones then putting a very small amount of thin CA into the threads to harden them a bit and see how that works out, of course I'd allow more than an ample amount of time for the CA to fully cure before I put the screws to it.

[cold_reboot]

Installed and moved exsisting pegs on my Ofna bump box to work with the Caster last night. For the life of me I can't get the wheel on the box to hit the fly wheel to turn it over (fully compressed the starter wheel doesn't make contact with the flywheel. The bump box is almost brand new, only been used on my TTR three or four times, and two of those were alignment tests. I looked at the box and can't find any adjustment for moving the wheel (up). Is my only option to buy a bigger fly wheel? Anyone else used the stock flywheel with a starter box that can point me in the right direction?

The stock TTR motor is a pullstart and as such sits higher off the chassis than the LRP does on the Caster and the box worked great with the TTR.

[razzor]

Thats odd.
Take out the motor and disconnect the starter battery.
Then place the chassis on the box and align it.
You would be able to keep the chassis pressed so you can see the wheel fits snug in the bump slot on the chassis.

Other than that if you need the wheel to be higher look at the motor mount inside the starter box and possibly space it higher with some washers or a plate.

[vnmsgt]

I have a ofna chrome top and it works fine with my caster. The only thing I had to do was on the alignment posts for the rear, you cannot use the ones that the chassis sits on top of the them you have to use the domed shape ones and let the chassis sit on top of the starter box plate. If you need pics let me know and this evening I can post them. My starter box wheel is old and worn too and it still works fine.

[razzor]

Mybe the chassis is sitting on a stopper instead of the flat surface on the back so it doesnt go low enough when you push it down.

[cold_reboot]

Chassis isnt sitting on anything, the posts are outside the Chassis edge.

[razzor]

How much does the wheel protrude from the box ???

[cold_reboot]

Bout a quarter of an inch

[vnmsgt]

It should be fine them. This is how I set my bump box plate up:

-Take the Plate off of the bump box
-Flip you car upside down
-place plate on top of chassis
-line up flywheel hole with flywheel
-mark on plate underneath where the adjusters should be or would fit
-install adjuster and barely snug to where you can tap them to move
-recheck with car upside down
-install plate on bump box
-place car on top and look between car and plate and see if lined up
-if not quite lined up you can tap the adjusters to move them
-see if turns over
-I it does then tighten adjusters.

PS: I have a 1/4" spacer under my plate to raise it up on the rear end so when you push down to start it, it give the wheel a chance to get turning fast enough to start the truck easily.

[razzor]

vnmsgt you have a screw underneath that adjusts the contact point and turn on of the box so no need to put a spacer.
I think a pic from Cold reboot would possibly shed some light on teh problem.

[cold_reboot]

Hey vnm, are you using the stock kit mount or the quik change mount? I'm thinking the stocker may be a little taller and "may" account for the starter box wheel not making good contact with the flywheel. Just a thought.

[vnmsgt]

I use the quick change mount but I was using the stock one and it was still working fine with the starter box.

[cold_reboot]

Got my new Ofna bump box this afternoon and just got done assembling it. UPS brought a surprise as well, the new center Diff case (Cam rocks!). About to install the alignment pegs...that anticipation lump is moving into my throat.

[cold_reboot]

Hey vnm, were you talking about beveling the chassis at opposite sides on the length...or width?

[vnmsgt]

I am talking about the width. (The 2 shortest sides you need to bevel)

[cold_reboot]

Gotcha ?&^

New center diff case is in as well.

[cold_reboot]

First tank done. Had to use the wifes hair dryer. I don't think I've ever seen her look so confused when she see's her hair dryer lying in the yard on a piece of laminate flooring. LRP started right up after pre-heating it. Way too tight without it. Letting 'er cool at BDC before the next tank.

[cold_reboot]

Ok kids, what happens when we have a low receiver battery and a Hitec 5955 on steering with no fail safe....thats right.....you turn the wheel and the truck go's wide open across the back yard....LOL. Luckily my yard isn't fenced and the edges are all tall soft weeds and dead tree leaves...it basically ran into a stack of pillows. Needless to say after I went and got it I turned the wheel and watched the throttle go full blast again. Took off the radio box cover and noticed the receiver light was going off when i turned the wheel....brown out from a low receiver pack and not enough amps...loss of signal. Reconnects and turns loose when the amps come back up...thats a long two seconds when your watching your new ride go across the yard at about 45mph. Can't understand why it's going wide open throttle tho...supposed to steer to center and slam on the brakes...have to work on that. Weeeeeee! tank three coming up lol.

[hakmazter]

Wow, you sound just like 3pointx only luckier! I wonder where he has been lately?

[vnmsgt]

To make the failsafe work properly on the spektrum this is what you have to do....

1-Make sure both reciever and controller are off.
2-push in button on reciever and hold and then turn on/off switch on.
3-hole button until light flashes
4-While controller is OFF, on the controller, apply brake, turn wheels to right or left, hole binding button down and turn on controller and hold everything AS-IS until reciever light stops flashing.
5-when it stops flashing brakes should be applied and wheels turned

6-To check and see if it works. turn everything on and the hold the throttle wide open (with car not running) then turn the controller OFF. The car should apply brakes and wheels should turn. Every time you turn car on or off with the controller off it will do this.
7-Now you know it works properly.

[cold_reboot]

Didn't get to tank three. Starter battery is kaput. I should be slapped for not charging all the batteries while at work today. I'd call it a successful day tho, I didn't break anything haha. I did learn one thing tho, that LRP can pancake the hell outta some tires. Can't wait to get it broke and dialed in to see what it does when it's not so rich.

Just redid the failsafe. Everything is as it should be. Hopefully that won't happen again, if it'd been going the other way across the yard it woulda hit a foot high concrete walkway at WOT....ouch.

[razzor]

Some advice.
1 put some kind of return spring on the throttle, mechanical return is much better than electronic fail safe and doesnt rely on battery voltage.
2 DO NOT USE the Spektrum failsafe to brake !!!! always set to nuetral !!!
i have and a good few other guys have burnt out servos because of using it to hold brakes etc.. Especially when you finish your run and have to go marshall and forget to switch off car.
Not a good site to see a KO digital go up in smoke.
It will stil be safe going to nuetral.

[vnmsgt]

Yes it can mess your servo up if left on but that is why you cannot forget! LOL! I just like my car to stop if something happens.

[cold_reboot]

I'll be damned if I can get this thing to start today, too tight. Loosened the plug and started her up after messin with it for a while. Like an idiot I took the ignitor off n it promptly died. By that point my starter battery was goin flat. Be glad when this break in is over and the motor turns over a little easier.

[vnmsgt]

That is the worst part of getting a new motor or RTR! I hate it!

[bigpaulieg]

Why not heat your motor before you try to start it. This will make it easier to crank over and not stress the con rod so much. What starterbox are you using?

Cheers

[cold_reboot]

I am preheating the engine. Ofna Chrome top.

[bigpaulieg]

ok, i know it can be a silly question.

One more of them is, do you make sure that the motor is on bottom dead center after you run it?

[vnmsgt]

You also know that if the motor does not want to turn over it probably is stuck at TDC. You have to get a flathead screwdriver and pry the flywheel free and then try and turn it over.

[cold_reboot]

Yes, I always put the piston at BDC after a tank to let it cool.

And yes, it has gotten stuck a few times at TDC and I use a small screwdriver on the flywheel to free it up.

On a different note I think the engine is mounted ever so slightly to one side according to the wear pattern on the clutch bell. When I tried to free it up the allen heads rounded out. So I'm guessing I'm gonna try to cut a small channel in them for a flat blade screw driver to get them loosened up and replace them when I get them off. Unless anyone has a better method for freeing them up.

Ok, correction, apparently I didn't look at it very well the first time. My engine mount bolts are fine, it's the cheap allen key I was using that rounded off. One disaster averted. I've decided to continue with break in in the evening/night hours. It's just way too hot and humid here. I almost dehydrated myself yesterday, guzzling water and sweating buckets. Managed to get a nice headache out of the deal tho. I hate summers in Texas.

Hey vnm, when I do replace this engine after I wear it out, break the Go Tech in for me before you send it lol.

[cold_reboot]

What brand allen head tools is everyone using. Need some that don't round off quite as easily as the ones I currently have. Seem to be a bit soft.

[vnmsgt]

Yes, I always put the piston at BDC after a tank to let it cool.

And yes, it has gotten stuck a few times at TDC and I use a small screwdriver on the flywheel to free it up.

On a different note I think the engine is mounted ever so slightly to one side according to the wear pattern on the clutch bell. When I tried to free it up the allen heads rounded out. So I'm guessing I'm gonna try to cut a small channel in them for a flat blade screw driver to get them loosened up and replace them when I get them off. Unless anyone has a better method for freeing them up.

Ok, correction, apparently I didn't look at it very well the first time. My engine mount bolts are fine, it's the cheap allen key I was using that rounded off. One disaster averted. I've decided to continue with break in in the evening/night hours. It's just way too hot and humid here. I almost dehydrated myself yesterday, guzzling water and sweating buckets. Managed to get a nice headache out of the deal tho. I hate summers in Texas.

Hey vnm, when I do replace this engine after I wear it out, break the Go Tech in for me before you send it lol.

I am willing to do that for a small fee!:D seriously;)

[vnmsgt]

Some advice.
1 put some kind of return spring on the throttle, mechanical return is much better than electronic fail safe and doesnt rely on battery voltage.
2 DO NOT USE the Spektrum failsafe to brake !!!! always set to nuetral !!!
i have and a good few other guys have burnt out servos because of using it to hold brakes etc.. Especially when you finish your run and have to go marshall and forget to switch off car.
Not a good site to see a KO digital go up in smoke.
It will stil be safe going to nuetral.
RAZZOR, I AM SO PISSED AT YOU RIGHT NOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YOU JINXED ME LOL!!!! AFTER I SAID THAT JUST DO NOT FORGET TO TURN YOU TRUCK OFF SO YOU WILL NOT FRY THE SERVO, WHAT DID I DO TODAY........... CAN YOU GUESS!! PUT MY BUGGY DOWN FOR ABOUT 3 MINUTES AND LOOKED BACK AT IT FOR A SECOND AND IT LOOKED LIKE IT WAS SMOKING A CIGAR!!!! MELTED THE BACK OF THE SERVO!!!! THIS IS SUCH :bsflag: $100 DOWN THE DRAIN!! HOPE I CAN GET IT WARRANTIED. :D

[lowlife88]

You dumb A$S..... LOL Live and learn. hahaha I bet you reset that spectrum, didn't you? Oh, by the way I was going to give ya a call today but instead went to dinner with my wife and kids, then over to panama city beach. Good lord it was pack with tons of people because of the holiday. Plus we took the big truck down to cruz it. $4.00 bucks a gallon is killing me. It's amazing how many people are drunk off their butts at 6:00 in the evening. LOL?&^

[vnmsgt]

no problem. $4 a gallon and since it was about $2.5 has made my 600hp stang a sitting shelf in my garage!

[cold_reboot]

Break in continues. Think i'm going to start doing all of these at night. Makes it much more tolerable. Got it started pretty easily tonight, I don't know if I'm just doing something right or if I have more patience in the cooler air, I'm thinking the latter. Leaned the high speed a bit after driving around and got it to 201, still a small amount of raw fuel coming out. Driving it on this setting a few more tanks before I tune it further. If I was completely honest I did gun it a few times to just below or at half throttle and I must say...very impressed so far, crazy amounts of torque out of the LRP (cheap engines run like this?). Throwing rocks twenty feet plus across the driveway and into the yard at less than half throttle blips. Hopefully I can get it loosened up and ready for a final tune tonight before I get too tired. The steering on this Caster is nuts compared to the Thunder Tiger, turns around completely in only 2 1/2 or 3 feet, Tiger took 3/4's of the width (about 6 feet to turn 180) of the driveway. Only had to slam on the brakes once to remember I hadn't set the idle, bogged it. Set the Idle screw for the current settings and did a few more laps around the driveway at about 1/4 throttle with a blip here and there. I know the LSN is still rich, bogs ever so slightly when I blip it pretty good, it's not far off from break in setting tho. Probably won't even take a full turn to tune the LS. All the guys we race with were impressed with the Thunder Tiger, mostly because none of them had ever heard of a Thunder Tiger that wasn't airplane related. I love this Caster, can't wait to blow some minds with it next time all the guys gather.

[razzor]

vnsmgt my apologies bud !

Guess its a lesson learnt the hard way.
The fail safe works so much better in neutral ;)

[cold_reboot]

Ok, I started tuning for performance this afternoon and got the engine dialed in. The LSN barely needed to be moved, only about an "hour" (as the clock face go's) This thing is stupid (in a holy.....s**t kind of way). I never knew one speed transmission Truggy's would pull the front wheels completely off the ground! I was coming across the front yard and punched it and the only thing that kept it from flipping over backwards was the wing! I think I soiled myself a little at that moment. I can honestly say I am speechless at this point. The performance on this Truggy is INSANE. I did find out I need a stiffer Saver spring lol, taking corners at speed under torque it was wrestling itself, but I completely understand given my ONE SPEED Truggy pulls the front wheels off the ground with shocking regularity! I love this thing!! Kudos to Caster!!!

On a different note....these Hitec 5955's are battery killers aren't they? Went into failsafe once toward the end of my run, nice to know it worked tho, just stopped in it's tracks...instead of 50 MPH across the yard with the tires ballooned to a knifes edge.

[vnmsgt]

Cool man! Glad you like it. They are awesome truggies. About the servo saver spring, tighten it up all the way and you will be fine. That is how mine is and no servo problems. The spring is weak from the factory. You can put a Mugen spring in it as a replacement. I bought a mugen spring but never installed it. Once I tightened the spring it was fine. You will notice that the truck will corner like mad with it tightened up!

[cold_reboot]

Yeah, I have the Mugen spring as well but it's not on. Haven't had a lot of luck tightening the saver up as the aluminum nut is pretty soft. Too hard to turn by hand and i didn't really want to mangle it with a pair of pliers.

[vnmsgt]

It is a pain. But has to be done! LOL!

[cold_reboot]

If I had the right kind of puller I'd probably use it to grab the sping and compress it, then screw the nut up. Would have to be easier that way. I also considered just ordering another saver post from Cam, hope they came unassembled like they appear on the site and putting the Mugen spring in it then throwing it in the truck. Decisions, decisions. May do that when I order extra parts (diff kits for rebuilds, spur gears, extra A-arms, all those extra little things that should be in every toolbox).

[cold_reboot]

"Especially when you finish your run and have to go marshall"

Marshall? Hey Razzor is this South African slang for droppin a duece?

[BigC123]

Now that's funny:&!@<*& poop poop. LOL

[razzor]

:) yeah right

[cold_reboot]

Got to looking at the Saver last night and I think I figured out why I was having such a hard time turning it. It looks like it's cross threaded. Not Casters fault. I think when I went to tighten it and accidentally loosened it to the end of the threads (it was very close to the end anyway) then started to tighten it I think I cross threaded it myself, but didn't notice before I went after it with a pair of pliers...oops. Oh well, thats what I get for trying to watch a one year old boy while attempting to do these things. I just sent Cam some more money and bought a few spare parts plus a new saver assembly. I'll just throw the Mugen spring in when the parts get here. Just an update on why my saver nut was so damn hard to turn lol.

[BigC123]

even though your getting a Mugen spring you have to tighten it up almost 3/4 the way down , then you wont have any problem.:D

[cold_reboot]

Ok, I know I explained the story of the low receiver battery and chasing my K8T across the yard after it bolted. I threw the battery on a charger and continually tested it about every hour. Charged it about 12 hours total but the amps never got above 5.7 on a 6v battery. Tester always told me it needed to be charged. And as soon as it was taken off the charger the amps started to drop by a few tenths every hour...what a piece of crap. Even the cheap Venom 6v stick pack I bought for the ST-1 is better than that. I haven't charged that thing in weeks and threw it on the tester and it's still holding it's charge at over 6v. Probably won't be buying any more Ballistic batteries.

[razzor]

probably has 1 dead cell in teh pack.
Try and cycle it a few times.
Also what charger are you using ??

[cold_reboot]

I'd rather throw it away than risk more brown outs at the worst time. Already ordered one of those matched cell custom built jobs.

[razzor]

when the budget allows id suggest getting a lipo reciever pack and a regulater.
A lot less hassles and runs much longer.
I use to get around 45-50 mins with a 1400mah lipo 7.4v pack and now use a 1800mah which i use for a whole day at teh track with out charging.
Probably get around 75mins with it.
Best thing is the servos work more consistently over the duration of a 30 min main where as with a 5 cell pack the response drops as the battery voltage goes down.

[cold_reboot]

Hey vnm, what Go's do you currently have in stock?

[vnmsgt]

I got a .21 3-port and 7-port right now but will have by friday a .21 5-port, .25 6-port, and .28 6-port. Also getting in some GO 2047 pipes too and carb restrictor sets.

[lowlife88]

reboot, try one of the 5-port silver heads or the new .25 and you'll not be disappointed. I've ran my 5-port for 1 1/2 and it still screams. Make sure you get one with a turbo head though, they seems to hold idle and power very well.

[vnmsgt]

All the .21's I get have the turbo heads.

[cold_reboot]

It's a toss up between the 21 5P, new 25 or the 28...really like to give that 25 a shot...but i'd like to try the 21 as well...course I like the 28's grunt... i hate decisions...oh well, I have time, need Big Bores first =) and only have a few tanks on the LRP

[vnmsgt]

Alot of people are getting away from the .28's and running the .21's. The 25 seems nice but have not heard alot about it. The .21 5-port is what most run in truggies

[cold_reboot]

Got my brown box of spare parts in the mail today, Yay Cam!!

[cold_reboot]

Got another box today with my new receiver pack just before the weekend (and I'm on vacation next week). WooHoo!!, lets see what I can wear out in 9 days :D

[vnmsgt]

When are we going to see some video?

[cold_reboot]

Good question, thought about that recently. I'll see what I can collect :D

[lowlife88]

Do it up!!! Lets see ya put that RTR through some hell and back.

[cold_reboot]

i have the kit lol, still put it through some hell tho :p

[cold_reboot]

Hey vnm, how are are the Go's on break-in? Harder than average? I ask because some engines are notorious for hellish break-ins.

[lowlife88]

The 5- port is kind of a pain in the rear, but as long as you take your time with the break in, it will last you many gallons. Like I said before, I've had mine for 1 1/2 years and numerous gallons, and it still has tremendous compresson. As for the 3-port, break in was very painless and tunes out great! That little guy works extremely well in my buggy.

[vnmsgt]

Hey vnm, how are are the Go's on break-in? Harder than average? I ask because some engines are notorious for hellish break-ins.

My .21 7 port was not too bad. The .28 6-port was pretty tough my friend got but none were as bad a a stupid PICCO! I will be breaking in a .21 5-port today on my friends K8T he just bought. We were finishing putting it together last night.