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View Full Version : K8T Diff Shims


cold_reboot
05-19-2008, 02:40 PM
For those folks here with a K8T, how did you shim your diffs? Rolling the chassis across the floor gives me a little more noise than I'm accustomed to. Should the diffs be shimmed on the Pro Kit from the factory? Or do i need to shim it? The noise isn't a popping or odd sound really, just a little more gear noise than I'm used to, is it normal?

vnmsgt
05-19-2008, 03:20 PM
You should check them when you fill you diffs with fluid. Mine does make a little more noise than I was used to but just a little bit. My diffs are really smooth though when I roll mine and have not had a problem yet, they were shimmed pretty good out of the box.

hakmazter
05-19-2008, 03:23 PM
You should always check your diffs in my opinion. I have only seen an issue with the rear one ever. I really question why they come preassembled. Sometimes it seems like more work to take them apart and put back together.....but everyone else is doing it also.....

cold_reboot
05-19-2008, 06:27 PM
I did "check" the shims, but this being my first kit I wasn't sure if I should shim it or not, if the way it came was fine, or if there was some way I could check the mesh to see if it needed to be shimmed.

Hak I did take them apart and inspected them when I filled with Diff fluid.

vnmsgt
05-19-2008, 06:41 PM
Easiest way for me is to unbolt the diff case from the chassis and remove the whole front and rear suspension as an assembly so you can see the actual diff under the case and you can check the play between the pinion gear and ring gear. Just hole the ring gear and turn the pinion side to side to see how much clearance you have. Hope you understand what I am saying.

razzor
05-20-2008, 12:56 AM
The new kits are shimmed OK but after a few tanks you should tear down inspect and reshim as all the gears would be runnin.
You can feel excessive play when you turn the center shaft back and forth while holding one of the wheels. You will notice that the delay when turnng the center shaft to get the wheel to react, take into acount the play on the cvd and dog bone.
If the truggy/buggy is stripped then holding the center shaft and one of the outdrives will give you a better idea of the clearance.
On the 1st gen ZX-1R kits we had hassles with the diff and spur gears being warped so you would get a high/tight spot as you turned the diff, the newer kits are much better though.