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View Full Version : HELP F8T BULKHEAD

bc24fl
05-20-2009, 08:33 PM
The rear diff doesn't fit in the rear bulk head. The diff gear bumps on the bulkheads plastic. WTF???

Any ideas?
badassrevo
05-20-2009, 08:34 PM
NopicsNopicsNopics
bc24fl
05-20-2009, 08:38 PM
I'm on step 8... here http://www.setupsheetspro.com/manual/f8t-manual-new.pdf

bulk head parts won't close because of the rear diff is bumpling into the top and bottom of the bulkhead plastic.
vnmsgt
05-20-2009, 08:43 PM
That little piece of plastic you remove, twist off. That is there fromm the molding process there should be no plastic on the bottom of the bulkheads open sides. It looks like a black toothpick right? take it off.
Dave D
05-20-2009, 08:47 PM
That little piece of plastic you remove, twist off. That is there fromm the molding process there should be no plastic on the bottom of the bulkheads open sides. It looks like a black toothpick right? take it off.

After I removed the toothpick things I sanded one half of the bulk head flat and remove flashing from the other half then I put the 2 halves together and then sanded the bottom flat just like with the diff cups.

Also when you go to attach the shock towers make sure that the holes all line up properly. I had to dremmel orr some of the bottom side of the shock tower becouse it was hitting on the top of the bulk head and rocking L and R
bc24fl
05-20-2009, 08:49 PM
That little piece of plastic you remove, twist off. That is there fromm the molding process there should be no plastic on the bottom of the bulkheads open sides. It looks like a black toothpick right? take it off.


I thought about that but was afraid to mess it up. thanks!!
bc24fl
05-20-2009, 08:52 PM
After I removed the toothpick things I sanded one half of the bulk head flat and remove flashing from the other half then I put the 2 halves together and then sanded the bottom flat just like with the diff cups.

Also when you go to attach the shock towers make sure that the holes all line up properly. I had to dremmel orr some of the bottom side of the shock tower becouse it was hitting on the top of the bulk head and rocking L and R

I may have to do that to get it to align correctly.
bc24fl
05-20-2009, 09:01 PM
tightened the bulkhead down and now it's VERY NOTCHY when I turn the drive joint. Does not feel smooth at all.
moparsrule
05-20-2009, 09:51 PM
It's not going to until you break in the gears.
Mr Fusion
05-21-2009, 04:39 PM
http://casterracingusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1596

I have pics of several details like this... from my 1.5r build. I don't have any commentary to go with it or explain anything but I did try to use the pics to show things....
Mr Fusion
05-21-2009, 04:40 PM
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t284/teamfusionracing/Caster%20zx15r%20build/IMG_9617.jpg


http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t284/teamfusionracing/Caster%20zx15r%20build/IMG_9620.jpg
vnmsgt
05-21-2009, 06:27 PM
tightened the bulkhead down and now it's VERY NOTCHY when I turn the drive joint. Does not feel smooth at all.

This is a perfect example of WHY you should actually run the crap out of your cars instead of once every 4 months. This way you get experience cleaning, fixing, checking things and get familiar with how things work. Now your lost :#$
bc24fl
05-21-2009, 06:30 PM
This is a perfect example of WHY you should actually run the crap out of your cars instead of once every 4 months. This way you get experience cleaning, fixing, checking things and get familiar with how things work. Now your lost :#$

Believe me , i want to run my car but my burnt fusion hasn't been shipped back to me yet. I'm going through RC withdrawals.