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spikeitaudi
07-24-2009, 01:49 PM
Working on getting it togther. I forgot how much I love ball diffs. :)

hakmazter
07-26-2009, 12:19 AM
Make sure you keep us updated on issues. That goes for you also Jason.

So far we have a steering part in a pro kit that was machined with the thread backwards from spikeitaudi. We need to compile a list so Mikey can fix or figure out what needs to be done. If the list gets big, I will be upset that we released these without really prototyping them.

Supposedly the new rtrs are perfect now. But then of course, there was only 1 issue that we noticed and it was an easy fix.

spikeitaudi
07-27-2009, 07:50 AM
Mike, Left you a voicemail and a PM on here friday night after I started building the diffs. The bearings that go on each side of the Diffs are the wrong size. Way to small as per the parts sheet. Also the Washer that goes on with the diffs with the bearing is to small. Step 7 in the instruction sheet. Need you to sent out as well. I have stopped building the rest of the kit for now as it feel like everytime I take a step forward I take 2 steps back.

hakmazter
07-27-2009, 10:11 AM
I just pmed you to call Jason. He had a nightnmare of a time with his and is missing a few parts....but is much farther along. He is stubborn though. We need to make a problem/resolution for this so Mikey can fix them. Jason said there are only a few issues and a few missing parts which I think is because the pro is completely different....

Other than that, he told me the thing looks like it will be awesome. Only time will tell.

Julia said the new rtrs are fixed and perfect and I have 50 of them.

spikeitaudi
07-27-2009, 12:49 PM
PMed you back.

jasonmaxamps.com
07-27-2009, 03:24 PM
It's coming down to a few parts being labeled wrong as in numbers are mixed up. A few parts are missing as well but we'll get through it.I have basically built the whole thing less the missing items. I spoke with Mike this morning and gave him the run down and he has e-mailed the list to Mikey.I don't see anything being tapped reverse threads if that was the case a normal threaded ball stud should not thread into a reverse thread hole. Check your parts it sounds like maybe a dirty hole. I was able to work all the ball studs into there holes with a little work. Dustin and I will get with each other tonight and go over things and see what he comes up with. This is a great looking little chassis and I look forward to getting it running. Mike pull the diff out of RTR and see if the missing parts are in them. The thrust washer and the shouldered shim that is missing.



Jason

YDBD
07-27-2009, 04:27 PM
It might take some time to get it right, btw I gotta good 1/8 pro kit, I was only short a couple 3x10mm screws. Everything else was there, but then again I've put together a DF03MS and a TA05 ifs-R, which are mind boggling, but if I go with a 1/18, man those are too tiny for my fingers and I'd lose the parts......

hakmazter
07-27-2009, 08:20 PM
Speaking of which, PM me when you are ready to go with the buggies or truggies for school...

ShagNastyEk9
07-28-2009, 09:04 AM
i was going to order one last week, will hold off till problems are resolved, but I understand new kits do have little things here and there, just dont need anymore stress right now, lol...... thats why my brushless micro-t doesnt have mega tiny e-clips holding the wheels on anymore

jasonmaxamps.com
07-28-2009, 12:56 PM
Ok for the most part I have mine together. On the supplement sheet there is a step to add washers on the center drive shaft to ensure that the gears and bearings stay in place. The part number listed is F18-096. Washers with that number didn't exist in my parts but upon further examination washers from bag F18-024 of which I had 6 left did in fact fit. The supplement sheet called for 4 to be used when in fact I found it necessary to use six. Ont the front end of the shaft it will go bearing, two washers, then bevel gear. On the rear of the shaft it will go pin, bearing, spur gear, two washers, bearing, two washers, then bevel gear. Then all is good. So I'm at this point. Thrust washers needed for diffs. and then the Hex hubs with the shallow pin slot. With those parts I can be up and running along with the correct servo saver horn to fit a Hitec HS-65. On a side note the drive shafts need an O ring cushion behind them to keep pushed out into the axle stubs. I had some small o rings that fit in the out drive cup slots sideways and forces the shafts out. Works perfect.

Jason

jasonmaxamps.com
07-29-2009, 10:55 AM
Ok I have a roller less the thrust washers for the front and rear diffs and the hex hubs that will need shallower pin slots. For now to get the servo saver to work I drill the center out of the kit supplied part and inserted the center of a cut down hitec horn which I then CA'd into the hole. It should work for the time being.

Jason

hakmazter
07-29-2009, 02:00 PM
Nopics

jasonmaxamps.com
07-29-2009, 02:10 PM
Oh I have pic's just don't want to show them all until I have this bad boy buttoned up. I've got a new 20mm 6800 KV motor and a brand new 26mm 6800 coming from my buddy Joe at castle. Once I have the motor mounted with the rest of the electronic's I'll do the thread. Any word from Mikey and I sent you an e-mail as well with some more info.

Jason

jasonmaxamps.com
07-29-2009, 03:53 PM
Oh OK I can't resist a spy shot or two..................

http://www.nitrokillers.com/picture.php?albumid=10&pictureid=311

http://www.nitrokillers.com/picture.php?albumid=10&pictureid=310

jason
07-29-2009, 04:03 PM
looks good?&^

jasonmaxamps.com
07-29-2009, 04:10 PM
It's a solid little kit. I don't think there is another 18th scale out there that offers this much aluminum right out of the box. I really hope the new 26MM 6800 KV motor will fit in it. She'll be a beast if it does. If not the 20MM 6800 will still make it fly.

Jason

Becki D
07-29-2009, 04:16 PM
It looks real nice buy why do you have truggy stickers with the buggy body? Or does the T stand for Tiny?

http://www.nitrokillers.com/picture.php?albumid=10&pictureid=311

jasonmaxamps.com
07-29-2009, 04:20 PM
Here's a size comparison.....................

http://www.nitrokillers.com/picture.php?albumid=10&pictureid=313


http://www.nitrokillers.com/picture.php?albumid=10&pictureid=312


-J

jasonmaxamps.com
07-29-2009, 04:22 PM
It looks real nice buy why do you have truggy stickers with the buggy body? Or does the T stand for Tiny?

http://www.nitrokillers.com/picture.php?albumid=10&pictureid=311

Well that's the sticker sheet that came with the kit. But yes you caught the mistake I made. But there are no "B" sticker that I know of. Time for a little cut job. LOL

Jason

spikeitaudi
07-29-2009, 06:46 PM
Ok, fustration has set in. I am on page 9 step 1. I am missing F16-027 (gear Cover, the triangle looking piece). Also on the same step for part number f18-029. I only have 3. The parts section said I was suppose to have 10. So I can't screw down the diff box to the chassis. For Step 2 on the same page I don't have part number f18-030. I am to fustrated to continue as everytime I start again I stop in 2 minutes cause this or that isn't there. f18-024 on Page 9 step 7 for the washer doesn't fit and I don't have any washer that are big enough to fit the diff. I think we already mentioned this but I thought I would say it again. Can you send me these parts so I can continue putting the kit together Mike?

Are there Metal diffs planned?

spikeitaudi
07-30-2009, 09:01 AM
Well that's the sticker sheet that came with the kit. But yes you caught the mistake I made. But there are no "B" sticker that I know of. Time for a little cut job. LOL

Jason


Jason can you take a picture of the bottom of it?

Regards,

Alvin

jasonmaxamps.com
07-30-2009, 09:26 AM
Ok, fustration has set in. I am on page 9 step 1. I am missing F16-027 (gear Cover, the triangle looking piece). Also on the same step for part number f18-029. I only have 3. The parts section said I was suppose to have 10. So I can't screw down the diff box to the chassis. For Step 2 on the same page I don't have part number f18-030. I am to fustrated to continue as everytime I start again I stop in 2 minutes cause this or that isn't there. f18-024 on Page 9 step 7 for the washer doesn't fit and I don't have any washer that are big enough to fit the diff. I think we already mentioned this but I thought I would say it again. Can you send me these parts so I can continue putting the kit together Mike?

Are there Metal diffs planned?

Yes the gear cover is missing. We are aware of that. Contact Mike for one. Here's the deal with the F18-029 screws. They are all pretty much replaced with the shorter version of it. The bag should be F18-048. Use those any place where your mounting an aluminum part to the chassis. If your Screwing a plastic part you need to use the coarse thread screws. For F18-030 you should have two silver posts smooth on top with a clip hole and a threaded shaft. They are the battery tray adjustment posts that screw into the two aluminum posts that get screwed to the chassis. If you don't see them you may be missing them. For Step 7 the 024 washer is labeled wrong those washers are to be used on the center drive shaft. The correct 024 thrust washers are missing from the kit. Mike is aware of this. E-mail mike at Hakmazter@msn.com and he will get the missing parts out to you.

Jason

spikeitaudi
07-30-2009, 09:29 AM
I'll email him as well but I think he knew to send me these parts out anyway.

jasonmaxamps.com
07-30-2009, 02:16 PM
Just remember to breath and take it step by step. If you get stuck some place move to another item. For instance put the shocks together. Sometimes just building an easy part and eliminating a bunch of parts from the pile will make more sense when it comes to the rest.

Jason

spikeitaudi
07-30-2009, 03:29 PM
I go to a different RC car as I raced in a mudbowl this past weekend. Fun fun cleaning all that off. :)

jasonmaxamps.com
07-31-2009, 07:55 AM
I'm pretty much set to get my rolling under power. Just waiting for the two motors to show from castle. We know for sure the standard 2068 will fit so I'm not worried there at all. And after doing some research and talking with Joe the 2668 should fit as well. This is a Brand new 26mm can line so I can't wait to see how they perform.

Jason

ShagNastyEk9
07-31-2009, 08:45 AM
the buggy looks sweet Jason, I am going to get a pro very soon also. So you are using castle creations brushless, but what brand battery will you be using, dont think you mentioned it anywhere!! hehehe........p.s. I need some batts for my fusion, lol

hakmazter
07-31-2009, 02:54 PM
I'm going to sell him an Ace battery cheap.....lol. It is bigger than the car, but it will drive for days.

I wonder if he will use a maxamps lipo? ha ha ha ha ha aha...

jasonmaxamps.com
07-31-2009, 03:11 PM
LOL I picture the start of the old Flintstones cartoon.......when the side of meat gets tossed on the Flintstone mobile and it tips on it's side. Na but seriously. Mike and I have been playing with packs. Our 3S 1550 and the 2S 1550 fit perfect Our 2S 2200 will fit the Pro Kits simply because there is no battery tray sides to have to work around. The 3S 2200 will not work though as it hits the center chassis brace. But for the most part these are meant to run on 2S any ways. As for my power system yes I'm using the Castle Creations Mamaba Micro Pro esc with either a 2068 motor or the new not even released 2668 motor. I was hopring to have them by this weekend but it looks like the first part of next week. I already have the ESC.

Jason

malik
07-31-2009, 09:42 PM
Thats awesome its like actually a scaled down fusion pro. This car will destroy ANY other 18/th scale on the market and I can not see it breaking ever. What size packs does it take like similar to the 2/3 nimh 6 cells from back in the day? Or can it go alittle bigger? I would love to get 1 but from what I know there really isnt any mini racing around here. I will have to check with Badassrevo about that. I hope the 10th scale what ever is just like that but just scaled inbetween the 2 buggies and it will dominate and I will definetly have 1. I hope 10th is next on the list.

spikeitaudi
08-01-2009, 09:49 PM
Mike, you get those parts send out me and Jason need?

j_blaze14
08-01-2009, 09:58 PM
Here's a size comparison.....................

http://www.nitrokillers.com/picture.php?albumid=10&pictureid=313


http://www.nitrokillers.com/picture.php?albumid=10&pictureid=312


-J

whoa, is that the new buggy bodies? i's be neddin' one a dems...

jasonmaxamps.com
08-03-2009, 08:14 AM
Yes those are the New bodies.

-J

jasonmaxamps.com
08-03-2009, 12:23 PM
Ok I ordered some RC18 axle stubs, pins, two sets of tires/rims and a set of diff thrust washers from tower. So as soon as that stuff gets here and the motors from CC I'll have this little bugger up and running. If all goes as planned hopefully by next Saturday.

Jason

hakmazter
08-03-2009, 01:13 PM
Yep, they went out. I do not have any of the f18-24s. Not sure why since I ordered every part there is available.....

jasonmaxamps.com
08-03-2009, 01:23 PM
Cool the RC18 shims spec'd out so they'll do for now. Now just to get all the parts here and on the car.

Jason

spikeitaudi
08-03-2009, 02:55 PM
My Mongoose and 380 motor should be here tomorrow. Mike did you get the part out yet?

spikeitaudi
08-03-2009, 02:56 PM
Hey Jason, what small 2S lipo batts are you going to use in yours?

jasonmaxamps.com
08-03-2009, 02:58 PM
Yep, they went out. I do not have any of the f18-24s. Not sure why since I ordered every part there is available.....

I would guess that means yes the parts were sent out except the Diff shims.

Jason

jasonmaxamps.com
08-03-2009, 02:59 PM
LOL I picture the start of the old Flintstones cartoon.......when the side of meat gets tossed on the Flintstone mobile and it tips on it's side. Na but seriously. Mike and I have been playing with packs. Our 3S 1550 and the 2S 1550 fit perfect Our 2S 2200 will fit the Pro Kits simply because there is no battery tray sides to have to work around. The 3S 2200 will not work though as it hits the center chassis brace. But for the most part these are meant to run on 2S any ways. As for my power system yes I'm using the Castle Creations Mamaba Micro Pro esc with either a 2068 motor or the new not even released 2668 motor. I was hopring to have them by this weekend but it looks like the first part of next week. I already have the ESC.

Jason


See that post.......

spikeitaudi
08-03-2009, 03:13 PM
I would guess that means yes the parts were sent out except the Diff shims.

Jason


Totally missed this. :)

spikeitaudi
08-03-2009, 03:15 PM
See that post.......

And the 2s 2200 are 34mm X 99mm X 16mm, right?

jasonmaxamps.com
08-04-2009, 08:08 AM
And the 2s 2200 are 34mm X 99mm X 16mm, right?

2200mah Capacity
7.4 Volts
W 34mm X L 99mm X H 16mm

Right off the website.

Jason

spikeitaudi
08-04-2009, 08:45 AM
You have any idea what run times you think you might get?

jasonmaxamps.com
08-04-2009, 09:17 AM
Averages put the 1550's at the 15 to 20 minute mark and the 2200 at 35 to 30. These will depend greatly on throttle usage, gearing, traction, and track size. Also motors will change the run time as well.

Jason

hakmazter
08-04-2009, 08:50 PM
Hey spikeitaudi.... Did Jason get a hold of you? Just yes or no.

spikeitaudi
08-04-2009, 08:58 PM
Today? No. I spoke to him lastweek.

jasonmaxamps.com
08-04-2009, 10:42 PM
Hey spikeitaudi.... Did Jason get a hold of you? Just yes or no.


What about?? We spoke last week. Nothing as of late. Mike you talking about the e-mail you sent me today about the Pro Kits. I haven't talked to anyone about that. I'm still going on as planned with this one for now.

Jason

spikeitaudi
08-05-2009, 07:59 AM
What am I missing here? Jason should I give you a call?

spikeitaudi
08-05-2009, 08:26 AM
Mike, I just spoke to Jason. I will wait. Sent you a PM also.

ShagNastyEk9
08-05-2009, 09:01 AM
should i keep waiting to order a pro kit?

jasonmaxamps.com
08-05-2009, 09:24 AM
Ok here's the deal. There are only 5 Pro kits in the US right now. These are basically a beta run of the kit. We are building or have them built and are working out the bugs. There were no real major issues just minor things that needed to be dealt with. These changes that are needed were relayed back to Mikey and he is making 5 new kit's with the changes. Once we have the new version and it's been built and everything looks good then I would say go ahead and buy one. For now I would hold off. The wait will be worth it.

Jason

jasonmaxamps.com
08-07-2009, 07:53 AM
Wow I order the parts I needed to do the wheel swap from Tower hobbies on the 3rd. Today is the 7th and I still don't have the large envelope that the 50 dollars worth of stuuf was sent in. The stuff shipped on the 4th and was in the St.Paul, MN metro area on the 5th. This is what stupid. It shipped from Tower to that point by UPS and as of late yesterday was then turned over to the USPS postal system. What a freaking joke the damn package sat in the Twin cities for two days. I think Tower Hobbies needs to rethink their shipping routing a bit. Yeah so at this point I guess I may see the parts today or Saturday now.

Jason

NetFryer
08-07-2009, 08:54 AM
I bet it's in St. Cloud by the end of tomorrow! FAST moving package!

jasonmaxamps.com
08-07-2009, 09:07 AM
That would be par for the course.

This is the tracking info from Tower site:

Date Description Location
Aug 4 2009 Mail Retrieved From Shipper
Aug 4 2009 Received at UPS Mail Innovations Origin RPF Carol Stream, IL
Aug 4 2009 Processed at UPS Mail Innovations Origin RPF Carol Stream, IL
Aug 5 2009 Transferred to UPS Mail Innovations Destination RPF Mendota Heights, MN
Aug 5 2009 Received at UPS Mail Innovations Destination RPF Mendota Heights, MN


Aug 5 2009 Manifested (Postage Paid) Which means "Manifested (Postage Paid) Postage is applied to the mail piece and ready for induction into the U.S. Postal stream."

I guess I don't understand why it started as a UPS shipment and then flipped over to the USPS. Seems like a waste of time. If it would have stayed in either of their hands for the whole trip I would have likely had the stuff in my hands yesterday. This deal with switching from one to the other is really odd. They list arrival time from Aug 6th to the 10th. I had the guys at the shop back in Spokane, WA build me two packs for my Trex 250 heli on Monday the 3rd and they shipped them our standard way which is USPS Priority. The packs where here on Wednesday the 5th. And that's how we ship just about every order. I'd like to see the stuff today seeing we are actually getting rain here in Alexandria for once. Perfect day to tinker and build.

Jason

jasonmaxamps.com
08-07-2009, 02:51 PM
Ok the parts did show today. I installed the AE axle stubs which are a tad longer than the fusion ones. Put the pins in a slid on the new AE wheel and tires and all is well. I also installed the AE Diff shims, one on each diff and the drive line is smooth and free wheeling. Just waiting now for the motors to show from Castle and we will be set to run this thing.


Jason

hakmazter
08-07-2009, 11:26 PM
Nopics

However, having to buy a bunch of ae parts is sort of uncool for the general public.....but it is a sweet temporary mod.

vnmsgt
08-08-2009, 08:05 AM
I think I am having a problem with the rear diff on mine. Seems like it was not pulling if I lifted the front off of the ground and hit the throttle. When I lifted the rear off and hit the throttle the front wheels would pull good. I took the rear diff out and How does this thing work? Is it like a slipper diff. I can hold both outdrives and turn the ring gear like it is broken off of the shaft or something. Does not free spin but it has drag. Looks like you shim it tighter or something? Hell I dont know. I never messed with anything less than 1/8 scale.

jasonmaxamps.com
08-08-2009, 09:32 AM
Yeah I know I didn't wan't to do it but I wanted to get it up and running so we can compare this to the others. One thing If you use the stock axle stubs and just the pins you can use the AE wheels. You'll have just enough axle stub to get the lock nut on with out a washer.


Ball diffs operate off of pressure to tight and you basically lock the rear. To loose and you get a one wheel wonder.


Another thing I ran into was the side off the diff that the center diff screw head in on needs a very small section off the axle pressure spring. If you put the whole spring in the axle gets pressed into the out drive cup and the stub axle and causes binding. I cut down to of the springs to about 3 coils and dropped them in now i have no binding on those two shafts. Smooth suspension movement and smooth steering rotation where before I was getting clicking.

I'll get some pic's later today.

Jason

vnmsgt
08-08-2009, 09:40 AM
Ball diffs operate off of pressure to tight and you basically lock the rear. To loose and you get a one wheel wonder.

Jason

Was this directed toward me? So how do I adjust it. It has to be too loose I am assuming because if the front pulls and the driveshaft is direct to the rear and the rear does not then it is that problem. The ring and pinion is fine.

Mr Fusion
08-08-2009, 09:47 AM
Chris, is this the Pro car? My sport car diffs were slipping like you say. You might have to take it apart and mod it a little. A ball diff is supposed to be tightened until the gear can't slip, but it still has diff action. Mine had to be tightened until it was locked up like a posi, before the gear was tight. Call me if that's what yours does... you can fix it with an exacto :)

jasonmaxamps.com
08-08-2009, 10:45 AM
Yeah Dustin I think he's got the RTR. It may need that little mod done to it like you had to do. The diffs in the pro kit went together just fine. I think right now there are only three of us with the Beta run of the pro kit.

Jason

vnmsgt
08-08-2009, 11:05 AM
Chris, is this the Pro car? My sport car diffs were slipping like you say. You might have to take it apart and mod it a little. A ball diff is supposed to be tightened until the gear can't slip, but it still has diff action. Mine had to be tightened until it was locked up like a posi, before the gear was tight. Call me if that's what yours does... you can fix it with an exacto :)

Yes it is RTR. I'll call you probably tomorrow evening is that ok? I do not have it with me now and will be racing all day tomorrow. BTW whats the difference between the PRO and RTR diffs. Are they the same?

Mr Fusion
08-08-2009, 12:12 PM
I hope they are not the same LOL

The RTR diffs... the outdrives touch each other when you tighten the diff adjustment screw. They aren't supposed to touch in the middle... that's what makes the diff lock up. Once you tear it down, you will see what I'm talking about. One outdrive has a long... ummm.....collar thing..... sticking out. It needs a little Lorraine Bobbit action.... LOL

Trim it at least 1/16" shorter so it can't contact the other outdrive... then you can tighten it up and the rings can squeeze the balls like they are supposed to. :)

jasonmaxamps.com
08-10-2009, 07:59 AM
The ones in the Pro version have been fixed. Mine didn't have that issue. Well Seeing my CC motors didn't show yet I naturally got bored Saturday. Well I had this little 380 brushed motor out of my Losi mini crawler. Thought hey what the heck lets toss it in the F18 and see what happens. Lets just say I had a driver for about 4 minutes total. The motor went up in smoke. It didn't like the 9.9 volts form my 1000 mAh Life test pack I was using. LOL Not to mention it was a crawler motor not a speed motor. I can't wait to get some real BL power in it.

Jason

jasonmaxamps.com
08-15-2009, 02:31 PM
The motors finally arrived today. I went right ahead and tossed in the new yet to be released 26mm 6800 KV motor or the 2668. On 2S in the house it's a beast. Would love to head outside right now and run it but we are getting some much needed rain here in MN so things are a bit wet. Hopefully Sunday will dry out for some outside testing.

Jason

hakmazter
08-16-2009, 10:49 PM
For some reason my spider sense is tingling....

I can just see a youtube video coming with the car going 80mph or something....

jasonmaxamps.com
08-18-2009, 07:37 AM
I did a temporary fix on the DB last night and and strapped in a new test pack made from 1000 mAh Life cells. So I had a 9.9 volt 1000 mAh Life pack. Well the DB fix lasted 6 1/2 minutes before my home made pin let loose. Pulled just shy of 500 mAh from the pack and the car was stupid fast. I'm going to send Mikey another e-mail suggesting or seeing if he can do a set of cvd axles for it. As always I'm over powered which I feel is the best way to test something out and with this power so far things are holding up rather well. The gears and ball diffs are doing there job under the strain of the 2668 motor, which is more motor than most people will run in a car like this so I'd say we are off to a good start.


Jason

spikeitaudi
08-18-2009, 08:50 AM
I did a temporary fix on the DB last night and and strapped in a new test pack made from 1000 mAh Life cells. So I had a 9.9 volt 1000 mAh Life pack. Well the DB fix lasted 6 1/2 minutes before my home made pin let loose. Pulled just shy of 500 mAh from the pack and the car was stupid fast. I'm going to send Mikey another e-mail suggesting or seeing if he can do a set of cvd axles for it. As always I'm over powered which I feel is the best way to test something out and with this power so far things are holding up rather well. The gears and ball diffs are doing there job under the strain of the 2668 motor, which is more motor than most people will run in a car like this so I'd say we are off to a good start.


Jason

Good to know the diffs are holding up. SO the DB are popping out. Not good. Still waiting for the new kit to come our way.

jasonmaxamps.com
08-18-2009, 09:11 AM
No the dog bones are not just popping out. The soft servo saver spring allows the wheels to turn to far under pressure which allows the pin in the dog bone to ride at the edge of the slot in the axle stub. Riding out at that edge causes the pins to eat away under the power that I'm putting through the car. I have talked to Mikey about this and the new kit should include different spring rates so you can fine tune the servo saver to meet your servo power and needs. Adjusting the steering end points also helped a bit as well. I also requested if possible a set of CVD's for the pro kit.

Jason

spikeitaudi
08-18-2009, 09:14 AM
CVD's are the way to go. I am glading you are finding out all these issues before I start putting mine together, again. :)

vnmsgt
08-18-2009, 10:43 AM
I hope they are not the same LOL

The RTR diffs... the outdrives touch each other when you tighten the diff adjustment screw. They aren't supposed to touch in the middle... that's what makes the diff lock up. Once you tear it down, you will see what I'm talking about. One outdrive has a long... ummm.....collar thing..... sticking out. It needs a little Lorraine Bobbit action.... LOL

Trim it at least 1/16" shorter so it can't contact the other outdrive... then you can tighten it up and the rings can squeeze the balls like they are supposed to. :)

I did what you said to the rear diff and it now works great. Problem is the front diff broke now:( The ring gear with the balls sheared off of the outdrive. Maybe from the original problem. Gonna fix that and it should be all good. Thanks again.

spikeitaudi
08-24-2009, 07:29 AM
Any word on the new kits? Would like to get it built before our big race in 3 wks.

hakmazter
08-24-2009, 09:04 AM
I haven't heard anything yet. I know they are retooling a lot of things.

spikeitaudi
08-24-2009, 10:33 AM
Ok. Keeping my fingers crossed for it so I can have it out or local big race of the year.

malik
08-28-2009, 07:44 AM
I have asked this before sorry but not sure if I got an answer, does these take mini servos or regular size?

Mr Fusion
08-28-2009, 09:34 AM
micro servos... 9g size like the hitec hs55-65 type

jasonmaxamps.com
08-28-2009, 10:12 AM
I'm running an HS-65 Karbonite gear. It's what I had here at home. I would suggest a HS-65 Metal gear if your going shopping. The servo's a perfect fit. I've used HS-55's and wouldn't recommend them in a car. The plastic gears are a tad to weak for this application.

Jason

spikeitaudi
08-28-2009, 10:24 AM
Jason, what shock oil did you use?

jasonmaxamps.com
08-31-2009, 12:43 PM
I just put in some 30 WT I had on the shelf.

Jason

big greg
09-05-2009, 12:16 AM
jason. how long of a motor can you fit in the pro. i know the rtr motor is 20x30. can you get a 40-50 long in there?

big greg
09-05-2009, 12:16 AM
also what are the battery compartment sizes? thanks

jasonmaxamps.com
09-05-2009, 09:28 AM
jason. how long of a motor can you fit in the pro. i know the rtr motor is 20x30. can you get a 40-50 long in there?


Motor can length isn't an issue but will depend on the esc you use and it's size. Right now I have CC's new 26mm 6800 in it and I still have about a 1/2 inch in between the esc and motor. My esc is mounted the chassis long way front to back.

also what are the battery compartment sizes? thanks

There is no battery compartment on the Pro kits. It's a Flat plate chassis so there is no compartment to speak of. Which is nice because our 2S 2200 will fit this design but our 2S 1550 is perfect.

Jason

spikeitaudi
09-08-2009, 08:44 AM
Mike, Any update on the new kit?

hakmazter
09-08-2009, 09:23 PM
Mikey just apologized to me for the delay and said that they made some improvements. Of course, I am not expecting much other than everything getting fixed. He let the machinist for that project go and I am not sure if it took a while to get him replaced. I am sure it will be worth the wait.

spikeitaudi
09-09-2009, 07:50 AM
Ok thanks. Guess the mini will be raced next season now. :)

hakmazter
09-10-2009, 12:00 AM
I hope not, how long are your seasons?

spikeitaudi
09-10-2009, 07:29 AM
We have our big race at our local track this weekend. 2 Day event. Then 2 wks after that is out last race outdoors. A couple of other tracks around me are open till end of October, but only 1 other runs minis.