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bc24fl
06-23-2008, 06:40 PM
Everytime I run the car there is a decent size puddle in the middle of the chassis where the engine sits. At first I ignored it but now my throttle servo refuses to work. Tested another servo and it worked so the receiver is fine. When I pulled out the servo it was wet with fuel / oil.

Anyway I'm including some pics below of the fuel on the chasis. Can the engine be leaking? If so will an engine run like this? I looked at the tubbing but it's hard to tell if there is a hole somewhere. I also notice that there is a little fuel on top of the glow plug? WTF?

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m44/icarrion/CIMG1040-1.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m44/icarrion/CIMG1041-1.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m44/icarrion/CIMG1042.jpg

bc24fl
06-23-2008, 06:43 PM
More pics.

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m44/icarrion/CIMG1039-1.jpg

vnmsgt
06-23-2008, 08:53 PM
does the truck still run good? NO running problems? I would clean it all up and run the truck on a stand or on top of something with the body off and rev it up some and see if you can tell if it is leaking. Where does the wetness start on the motor (the highest point if even on the motor)? With a leak like that I would say a fuel line has a cut in it. The front bearings can leak on the motors behind the flywheel but it usually just gets the front of the motor wet and that is all. The rear of the motor wet? The rear OWB cover can leak to along with a loose cylinder head bolts but the the motor will be nasty and wet at the top. You should see some running problems or running lean with a leak like that.

razzor
06-24-2008, 02:39 AM
2 possibilities.
1 the front bearing is leaking but have you noticed the engine having a unusual idle or erratic running ?? If sucking air it will lean out on the bottom
2 the front bearing is leaking becuase the lsn is set too rich so it floods the front bearing and seaps.Remedy is to lean out teh lsn as as the idle comes up to turn the idle down.

number 2 is rather common as guys have the idle set a bit high and when the engine is
"running on" from a rich tune they mistake it for a lean bottom.
rich bottom will have a high idle as you come off the throttle but it will be a fairly steady rpm and drop after a few seconds. where as a lean bottom will have a unstabil rev as it comes down to idle.

mikey
06-24-2008, 06:26 AM
try to change other pipe, see how it works...!!

bc24fl
06-24-2008, 08:39 AM
2 possibilities.
1 the front bearing is leaking but have you noticed the engine having a unusual idle or erratic running ?? If sucking air it will lean out on the bottom
2 the front bearing is leaking becuase the lsn is set too rich so it floods the front bearing and seaps.Remedy is to lean out teh lsn as as the idle comes up to turn the idle down.

number 2 is rather common as guys have the idle set a bit high and when the engine is
"running on" from a rich tune they mistake it for a lean bottom.
rich bottom will have a high idle as you come off the throttle but it will be a fairly steady rpm and drop after a few seconds. where as a lean bottom will have a unstabil rev as it comes down to idle.

Ah sounds like #2. I've been messing with the lsn recently so that could be it. I also remember that the lsn was always wet.

I always get screwed when I go by the manual. According to it... it says the factory setting for the needle is flush with the brass ( I'm assuming that this means the top right?).

I just hope amain will return the servo.

Thanks guys.

P.S. Here is the manual. http://www.ofna.com/pdf/eng-force25-26.pdf

vnmsgt
06-24-2008, 11:01 AM
What servo is it?

vnmsgt
06-24-2008, 11:01 AM
What servo is it?

razzor
06-24-2008, 11:12 AM
Just checked a motor i have.
lsn is 6 turns and is about flush to brass housing
hsn is 4.5 turns from close and again almost flush to housing.

I definately think your hassle is too rich a lsn setting due to no mention of stubborn idle or erratic behaviour.
Id suggest after running it and its at operating temp to turn in the lsn a 1/4 turn at a time and give it a quick run untill you find it bogs when applying throttle, at this point richen it up 1/2 a turn.
As you go through leaning the lsn the idle will increase and you should notice the motor will start to smoke more as it gets closer to where it needs to be.
All this time take note of motor temps and you should usually richen the hsn in small amounts to keep the same speed on the top end with a smoke trail.
To double check idle adjustment the carb shouldnt be open more than 1mm when the throttle is closed.

If that doesnt help change the front bearing.
They easilly available 607z metal sealed or 607RS rubber sealed bearings.
I use metal sealed and dont remove the inner seal, if using a rubber seal i make 2 small holes on the inner seal.

Hope this helps

bc24fl
06-24-2008, 11:15 AM
What servo is it?

It is the ACE DS1313 made by Associate. I called them and they said they'll return it with a valid receipt.

cold_reboot
06-24-2008, 11:18 AM
Usually when it tells you flush with something it's talking about the housing the needle is inside of (so if you ran your finger over it it's level). Thats definately a little wet tho lol. Hows it running? Any bogging in the transition from Idle? Hows your idle? Does it jump around? Slow one minute and fast the next? I can't imagine you'd be getting that much fuel coming out in the area of the LSN and it be running perfectly. If you do figure out that it's coming from the LSN you could always try a little plumbers tape on the threads to help seal it. I'd start simple, it could also be a leaky fuel line that only manifests itself at speed when the fuel system pressure gets up more and it's getting on the LSN making you think thats what it is. If you have any extra fuel line (I have about 15 feet of it in my toolbox..you can get the plane old Great Planes standard fuel line from your LHS in three foot lengths...only a few bucks). Might have just had a tiny pin hole to begin with...or maybe you pinched it while working on it...any number of things. Simplest answer is often the correct one. If you dont want to replace it right off I'd take the fuel line off, submerge it in a sink of water (submerge as much as you can), pinch an end off and blow in the open end and see if you get any tiny bubbles.

razzor
06-24-2008, 11:25 AM
cold has a point on the fuel tubing.
Also keep the pressure line as long as you can, it helps keep the tank pressure more consistent over a long run. Mine is 10 inches with a filter/reservoir inline.

bc24fl
06-24-2008, 11:32 AM
Just checked a motor i have.
lsn is 6 turns and is about flush to brass housing
hsn is 4.5 turns from close and again almost flush to housing.

I definately think your hassle is too rich a lsn setting due to no mention of stubborn idle or erratic behaviour.
Id suggest after running it and its at operating temp to turn in the lsn a 1/4 turn at a time and give it a quick run untill you find it bogs when applying throttle, at this point richen it up 1/2 a turn.
As you go through leaning the lsn the idle will increase and you should notice the motor will start to smoke more as it gets closer to where it needs to be.
All this time take note of motor temps and you should usually richen the hsn in small amounts to keep the same speed on the top end with a smoke trail.
To double check idle adjustment the carb shouldnt be open more than 1mm when the throttle is closed.

If that doesnt help change the front bearing.
They easilly available 607z metal sealed or 607RS rubber sealed bearings.
I use metal sealed and dont remove the inner seal, if using a rubber seal i make 2 small holes on the inner seal.

Hope this helps


Thanks I will check my settings tonight. I really hope it's that.

bc24fl
06-24-2008, 12:22 PM
Usually when it tells you flush with something it's talking about the housing the needle is inside of (so if you ran your finger over it it's level). Thats definately a little wet tho lol. Hows it running? Any bogging in the transition from Idle? Hows your idle? Does it jump around? Slow one minute and fast the next? I can't imagine you'd be getting that much fuel coming out in the area of the LSN and it be running perfectly. If you do figure out that it's coming from the LSN you could always try a little plumbers tape on the threads to help seal it. I'd start simple, it could also be a leaky fuel line that only manifests itself at speed when the fuel system pressure gets up more and it's getting on the LSN making you think thats what it is. If you have any extra fuel line (I have about 15 feet of it in my toolbox..you can get the plane old Great Planes standard fuel line from your LHS in three foot lengths...only a few bucks). Might have just had a tiny pin hole to begin with...or maybe you pinched it while working on it...any number of things. Simplest answer is often the correct one. If you dont want to replace it right off I'd take the fuel line off, submerge it in a sink of water (submerge as much as you can), pinch an end off and blow in the open end and see if you get any tiny bubbles.

CR, the engine is running good (much better than before when it was bogging). Idle is excellent, well from a newbies eye at least. 2 weeks ago (after reading manual) I set it flush (level) and then I was having problems starting it (even with the starter box). Since the engine was still new I used a hair blower to start it and it would start after it was heated to about 150 degrees. This is when the puddle started to appear but couldn't make the connection.

I'll check the fuel lines but as you said it may have a little leak so I'll just replace the entire thing. I like your idea of getting the fuel line roll from GP. Will have to order that since I don't have any available.

I noticed that caster has long fuel lines. Is this so that you can hold more fuel during races?

cold_reboot
06-24-2008, 01:02 PM
Dunno about fuel lines (all of them), but like Razzor said a longer pressure line can help maintain consistent pressure over a run. Mine is about the same length as a Razzors.

bc24fl
06-24-2008, 08:02 PM
Ok can someone confirm that the low and high speed needles are identified correctly in these pics. There is another in the 3rd pic that I don't know what its purposes is for.

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m44/icarrion/highandlowspeedneedle.jpg

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m44/icarrion/whatisthisneedle.jpg

cold_reboot
06-24-2008, 08:06 PM
The one you have labeled "What is this" is the Low Speed Needle. You have the High Speed identified correctly. The one you have Labeled Low Speed is the Idle screw. :#$

Ya might reset your needles to the factory default break in settings and retune it. If you've got it running good with the needles misidentified the way they are get ready to have your mind blown when you tune it this time. lol

bc24fl
06-24-2008, 08:09 PM
The one you have labeled "What is this" is the Low Speed Needle. You have the High Speed identified correctly. The one you have Labeled Low Speed is the Idle screw. :#$


OMG WTF.. RTFL!!! :iamwithstupid::iamwithstupid::iamwithstupid::iamw ithstupid::iamwithstupid::iamwithstupid:

I'll be back need to vomit.

cold_reboot
06-24-2008, 08:12 PM
Ya might find your fuel leak problem go's away as well :D

LOL! it happens

bc24fl
06-24-2008, 08:20 PM
Ya might find your fuel leak problem go's away as well :D

LOL! it happens

I think I broke the record for dumbest rc'er!! :confused:

Anyway, many thanks.

According to the manual idle needs to be set for 1/16 open for new engines. I'll try it manana

bc24fl
06-24-2008, 09:07 PM
I just had to say the title of this thread describes my problem to a tee =)

cold_reboot
06-24-2008, 09:20 PM
Your good, I've seen my buddies new to RC do some pretty bone headed things. Your needle mistake is pretty light. One friend blew up an engine in a buggy that had about 10 tanks through it..and when I say he blew it... I mean he blew it....it went out with a very loud bang (small explosion). Tightened the brakes too tight in his brand new LST2 he bought right after that and melted the clutch...I mean this thing looked like a reactor core, total meltdown. Course he tore it down on the tailgate of his pickup and lost quite a few (tiny) bearings when he did it. That was after he attempted to pull the clutch off before he removed the nut that holds it on...Losi guy was telling him he didn't need to take that nut off.....i just looked at him and told him to take the nut off. I seem to have more and more friends that just bring thier trucks to my house and drop them off expecting me to fix it.

razzor
06-25-2008, 05:29 AM
I think its more down to guys doing teh guy thing and not refferring back to the manual :)

Just remember when in doubt go back to basics and stock settings.

hakmazter
06-25-2008, 01:49 PM
and the owner's manual is in the site for each part....just go to the click to zoom...

I think I never did the K8 specific parts....

bc24fl
06-25-2008, 03:09 PM
With all due respect Hak, we need Cam to approve a better manual. Something like this:



http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m44/icarrion/bettermanual.jpg

cold_reboot
06-25-2008, 04:01 PM
LOL Nice one

hakmazter
06-25-2008, 10:44 PM
Hey BC24FL.... Is your real name Joseph Hazelwood?

that will require a google search......and give you guys something to do.

Looking at the pics on page 1, it has to be you.

hakmazter
06-25-2008, 10:56 PM
http://casterracingusa.com/files/oil_spill2.JPG


here is the pic. everyone will have to wait 24 hours though....

bc24fl
06-26-2008, 08:45 AM
Hey BC24FL.... Is your real name Joseph Hazelwood?

that will require a google search......and give you guys something to do.

Looking at the pics on page 1, it has to be you.

It's obvious the reef wasn't clearly marked on the map.;)

bc24fl
06-26-2008, 12:43 PM
Ok, closed the idle and opened up 1/8 increments until I got to about 1 1/2. The problem now is that during idle car wants to move forward. Should I continue to open idle screw until it stops wanting to creep forward? What setting's do you guys have for your idle?

razzor
06-26-2008, 12:54 PM
idle screw needs to be around 1mm open.
close it a bit so clutch doesnt engage.

cold_reboot
06-26-2008, 12:56 PM
I never count turns on an idle screw, thats a "adjust idle until you get the lowest reliable idle without the engine dying" screw. Have you already got your engine tuned?

bc24fl
06-26-2008, 01:35 PM
idle screw needs to be around 1mm open.
close it a bit so clutch doesnt engage.

When I close it more it wants to creep up more. When it opens it slows down until it idles correctly but I don't want another leak issue?

CR, before I retune I'd like to get the idle working right.

I feel like a tard but I need to ask. How many turns is 1 mm. It is hard to gage from the 3d view (or Z view).

cold_reboot
06-26-2008, 04:30 PM
You need to tune the engine first. Tuning the engine will change the idle, your going to have to re adjust the idle anyway. Just get it runnin and slow it down just so it's not trying to take off, then tune your engine. HSN First, LSN Second, Idle Last

razzor
06-27-2008, 12:59 AM
Maybe an idea to pop down to a local track or hoby shop for some tuning help.
Dont be afraid to approach fellow rc guys.

cold_reboot
06-27-2008, 08:56 AM
I have faith in you BC!!(more than razzor apparently lol) Idle screw in is faster idle, Idle screw out is slower idle. So if it's too fast back it out. You really can do this, I promise, once you get it dialed you'll think, "well that wasn't hard..."

bc24fl
06-27-2008, 09:33 AM
Yeah in the past my airplanes were all tuned by the rc guys in the area and I really never learned anything. All of the planes were running OS engines so it was sort of set it and forget it. Even when the engine cut off in the air I could successfully land them because they were top wing planes. If i had a low wing airplane I would have been in deep sh@t many times. My heli's were electric so no problem there even though it took me about a month (compressed time) to learn how to fly them.

I was able to tune the engine last night but I wasn't too excited about the performance. When I got it working fast the temp would reach 290-300 so I was forced to richen the high speed until it wouldn't go past 260. I know I shouldn't tune by temp but I also don't want to f' up the engine either. Right now the performance is ok and I tuned the low speed so that it doesn't bog down during take off. The idle is still a little fast but I left it like that for now.

My biggest dilemma now is waiting for the track owner in Miami to open up the freagin track. I may have to travel to Hollywood, FL to get in a few pro laps on their track. It is about 45mins drive. The rain in the summer doesn't help either. Never go to south florida in the summer (save your cash and come in the winter/spring).

Ultimately I appreciate all the help here and am happy to have purchased the Caster K8T. It's like being in a small class room so that the dumb guy gets alot of attention / teaching. Also thanks to the upper guys (cam/hak) for doing a good job in signing up good drivers and exceptional photoshop skills ;).

bc24fl
06-27-2008, 09:46 AM
Yeah in the past my airplanes were all tuned by the rc guys in the area and I really never learned anything. All of the planes were running OS engines so it was sort of set it and forget it. Even when the engine cut off in the air I could successfully land them because they were top wing planes. If i had a low wing airplane I would have been in deep sh@t many times. My heli's were electric so no problem there even though it took me about a month (compressed time) to learn how to fly them.

I was able to tune the engine last night but I wasn't too excited about the performance. When I got it working fast the temp would reach 290-300 so I was forced to richen the high speed until it wouldn't go past 260. I know I shouldn't tune by temp but I also don't want to f' up the engine either. Right now the performance is ok and I tuned the low speed so that it doesn't bog down during take off. The idle is still a little fast but I left it like that for now.

My biggest dilemma now is waiting for the track owner in Miami to open up the freagin track. I may have to travel to Hollywood, FL to get in a few pro laps on their track. It is about 45mins drive. The rain in the summer doesn't help either. Never go to south florida in the summer (save your cash and come in the winter/spring).

Ultimately I appreciate all the help here and am happy to have purchased the Caster K8T. It's like being in a small class room so that the dumb guy gets alot of attention / teaching. Also thanks to the upper guys (cam/hak) for doing a good job in signing up good drivers and exceptional photoshop skills ;).

AND AS A RESULT NEW AVATAR!!

vnmsgt
06-27-2008, 10:09 AM
Yeah in the past my airplanes were all tuned by the rc guys in the area and I really never learned anything. All of the planes were running OS engines so it was sort of set it and forget it. Even when the engine cut off in the air I could successfully land them because they were top wing planes. If i had a low wing airplane I would have been in deep sh@t many times. My heli's were electric so no problem there even though it took me about a month (compressed time) to learn how to fly them.

I was able to tune the engine last night but I wasn't too excited about the performance. When I got it working fast the temp would reach 290-300 so I was forced to richen the high speed until it wouldn't go past 260. I know I shouldn't tune by temp but I also don't want to f' up the engine either. Right now the performance is ok and I tuned the low speed so that it doesn't bog down during take off. The idle is still a little fast but I left it like that for now.

My biggest dilemma now is waiting for the track owner in Miami to open up the freagin track. I may have to travel to Hollywood, FL to get in a few pro laps on their track. It is about 45mins drive. The rain in the summer doesn't help either. Never go to south florida in the summer (save your cash and come in the winter/spring).

Ultimately I appreciate all the help here and am happy to have purchased the Caster K8T. It's like being in a small class room so that the dumb guy gets alot of attention / teaching. Also thanks to the upper guys (cam/hak) for doing a good job in signing up good drivers and exceptional photoshop skills ;).

You said it use to bod off of idle and now the temps are too high and you lean the HSN out to get the temps down but then it is too rich. You might have had a Lean bog on the LSN. Just a thought, you could try leaning out the top just a little and richening up the bottom about 1 to 1.5 turns and see.

bc24fl
06-27-2008, 10:20 AM
You said it use to bod off of idle and now the temps are too high and you lean the HSN out to get the temps down but then it is too rich. You might have had a Lean bog on the LSN. Just a thought, you could try leaning out the top just a little and richening up the bottom about 1 to 1.5 turns and see.

Ah didn't know lsn could affect temps. I'll give it a try.

vnmsgt
06-27-2008, 11:10 AM
Ah didn't know lsn could affect temps. I'll give it a try.

It can but not as noticeable. You have to turn the LSN alot more than the HSN to have a affect on temps or running.

razzor
06-27-2008, 01:39 PM
My reasoning behind asking someone local is that you could solve the problem with help on hand rather than online.
That way there is more info available to see and hear, also you would learn practically and understand what happening beter.
I do it all the time with local new guys and explain what i am doing and what is going to happen as well as being open to questions silly or good.

A key to getting good advice as well is to get as much info about the problem as possible other wise we are guessing what could be the solution.

bc24fl
06-27-2008, 03:04 PM
My reasoning behind asking someone local is that you could solve the problem with help on hand rather than online.
That way there is more info available to see and hear, also you would learn practically and understand what happening beter.
I do it all the time with local new guys and explain what i am doing and what is going to happen as well as being open to questions silly or good.

A key to getting good advice as well is to get as much info about the problem as possible other wise we are guessing what could be the solution.

Razzor hurry up and move to Miami, Florida. The women are much hotter over hear! ?&^

razzor
06-30-2008, 02:49 AM
I'd love to :)

Was supposed to be going over for the Offroad Worlds in a few months but plans had to change as i am going to China for business.
Hope to be visiting Mikey and some other suppliers and get sorted for Christmas.

bc24fl
06-30-2008, 09:03 AM
I'd love to :)

Was supposed to be going over for the Offroad Worlds in a few months but plans had to change as i am going to China for business.
Hope to be visiting Mikey and some other suppliers and get sorted for Christmas.

Oh good luck, wish I could visit and try the good food over there. Isn't Caster in Taiwan?

razzor
06-30-2008, 09:18 AM
Cant speak for Food over in China but can say we have some of the best foods and varieties here in SA :)
Caster is a Taiwan based company but all manufacturing tec is out of there factory in China.

bc24fl
06-30-2008, 11:44 AM
Cant speak for Food over in China but can say we have some of the best foods and varieties here in SA :)
Caster is a Taiwan based company but all manufacturing tec is out of there factory in China.

ah k cool. Take some pics and have a singao on me :)

hakmazter
06-30-2008, 09:54 PM
yes....lots of pictures......