Caster F18 Pro Updated parts thread

[jasonmaxamps.com]

Ok guys got word from Mike the other day that the updated parts are in for the F18 Pro beta kits that went out. I didn't have a chance to speak with Mike about what all was changed but the parts are on the way to me. I'll use this thread as the F18 Pro Beta upgrade thread and keep track of the changes here. I'll be back as soon as I have the parts.

Jason

[cbr74]

+ 1

?&^

[jasonmaxamps.com]

Parts are here, basically amounts to new set of rear bearing carriers, Front C hubs, Front Spindles, And the main steering link parts. Still no fix for the servo saver horn or the Body mounts so you can run the truggy body. I'll Install the new parts and see if the fit fixes the issues we saw with the first run.

Jason

[jasonmaxamps.com]

OK front C hubs are one as well as the spindles or bearing carriers. Bearing fit was spot on as well as part fit. No issues with these upgraded parts.
Next the rear bearing carriers.

Jason

[jasonmaxamps.com]

Ok new rear hubs are on. Fit was great and no issues with bearing fit on these either. Now I put together the new aluminum steering parts and removed the originals to compare. The only difference between the two groups of parts is the thickness of the cross over part the new part is thin compared to the old which is wider were it goes over the center drive shaft. Other than that no differences in fit or play. The last part I got was a suspension are pin retainer. There are two on the Pro version and my originals had no issues. I opted not to put this one part on at this point.

So issues remaining that need to be dealt with are the servo saver horns (to allow for other servo use), servo saver springs in different rates (heavier), and the body mounts so that we can use the truggy body. Other than that we are on track. These issues were brought up before and I'm not sure why they were not looked at. We will see.

Jason

[cbr74]

Did you have any issue with the front diff case fit becasue of the lack of kick up on the Pro chassis?

[jasonmaxamps.com]

Nope never had that issue.

-J

[cbr74]

Hmm... interesting.

[Mini-me]

Are these just fixes for the pro?

[cbr74]

Stock chassis:
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC00767.jpg

Pro chassis:
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC00764.jpg

Pro chassis after I stuck it in my vice and tweaked it:
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC00766.jpg

[cbr74]

Getting there.. missing a few parts like the top brace and the spur gear cover.
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC00783.jpg

[spikeitaudi]

That sucks about the servo saver. My Servo went out on the RTR and is back in the box cause I don't want to stick another stock and my HS65 died. So I am waiting for a correct servo saver before running it again. Always something with this thing.

[jasonmaxamps.com]

"Always something with this thing"??? It's a new vehicle, issues like these are common. Caster is doing their best to fix these things and yes it does take time when your dealing with overseas contacts. Please be patient and please don't make things any tougher with comments like you posted. Helping with issues rather than complaining will speed things up.

-Jason

[jasonmaxamps.com]

Stock chassis:
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC00767.jpg

Pro chassis:
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC00764.jpg

Pro chassis after I stuck it in my vice and tweaked it:
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC00766.jpg

Hmm, Mine actually screwed together with no issues everything seated very well. I may have to tear it down and do what you did when I have access to my vice after I move. I may be putting extra and unwanted strain on the front diff case. Good catch!!

-Jason

[cbr74]

Hmm, Mine actually screwed together with no issues everything seated very well. I may have to tear it down and do what you did when I have access to my vice after I move. I may be putting extra and unwanted strain on the front diff case. Good catch!!

-Jason


Yeah, I'm cool like dat. :&!@

[momo]

Wow, so much aluminium. :eek:

[spikeitaudi]

"Always something with this thing"??? It's a new vehicle, issues like these are common. Caster is doing their best to fix these things and yes it does take time when your dealing with overseas contacts. Please be patient and please don't make things any tougher with comments like you posted. Helping with issues rather than complaining will speed things up.

-Jason
Jason,

I have been patient as I was one of the first one to get the 1st gen pro kits with you. I think I have been very patient. And stating a true statement like "Always something with this thing" isn't a false statement. I wasn't slamming it, I wasn't putting it down. Just stating a fact. And the fact is a new Servo saver that will accomodate a JR,Hitec, Futaba spline is a fact that we already brought up to them that is needed that didn't get addressed.

[Mini-me]

Getting there.. missing a few parts like the top brace and the spur gear cover.
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC00783.jpg

That just looks sick!!!! I so need that..lol
As soon as all the kinks are worked out and I can get a list of everything I need to turn my RTR into a sick truck, I'm all over it..
Hurry up...lol

[ShagNastyEk9]

is there no sort of spacer with the kit that would go between the chassis and diff case?

[spikeitaudi]

Didn't come with any.

[cbr74]

I got it together and took it to the track tonight. The verdict: the aluminum a-arms gotta go. I DNF'ed twice with a bent front hingepin and the second time broke the front bumper as well. I'm going to put the plastic RTR a-arms on it and give another go next week.

[hakmazter]

Jason,

I have been patient as I was one of the first one to get the 1st gen pro kits with you. I think I have been very patient. And stating a true statement like "Always something with this thing" isn't a false statement. I wasn't slamming it, I wasn't putting it down. Just stating a fact. And the fact is a new Servo saver that will accomodate a JR,Hitec, Futaba spline is a fact that we already brought up to them that is needed that didn't get addressed.

Always something with this thing sounds like you have had multiple issues. You got a pro kit, complained on step 1 and I sent out some parts. You made it a few steps farther and gave up and asked for a rtr kit. I will also mention that you DID wait very patiently for a new 1/18 pro kit, but WE took too long to accomodate you. I gladly exchanged it for you and sent out the rtr kit. You drove it and the HITEC servo went out and the stock one went out. It sounds like the only issue you had was that the stock servo sucked. I think it sucks also so from now on, we are getting a better servo for the next generation of F18s. Things like this are what makes Caster great as we listen and try to fix problems.

I am 99% sure that if you made a post that you got a rtr and the servo sucked without mentioning it was a Caster or that it was 1/18, everyone on earth would just assume it was a Losi or Traxxas or AE, etc....and tell you that rtr all servos suck.

Besides, do you have any idea how long it takes to make a miniature mold for all the different mini splines? It isn't like they are not making hundreds of kits daily for the other markets where Caster is widely accepted, let alone the other brands and oem stuff that are made by Caster.

That is the main reason I got involved..... I know that Caster isn't going out of business if the US market sells a car a month or 1000 cars per month. Therefore, we have all the time in the world to get the product right even if the expectation is above and beyond industry standards.

[spikeitaudi]

Mike,

Like you said I have had multiple issues with the F18 platform in general. I wasn't being specific to the RTR or the Pro kit. If it sounded as a negative I am sorry, that was not my intention, but when putting out a product of this magnitude to the public you expect the little thing such as having a servo saver for multiple brand servo to already be thought of. Even if it isn't included at least it should be an aftermarket product that is available. That isn't the case which is fine we should move on and make sure any new product releases have this thought built in next time.

I agree all RTR servos suck, but at least there is at least an alternate solution to get an aftermarket brand servo on without trying to do RC surgery. :)

Bottom line is for me is when you release a product to the main public such as the PRO kit you expect the minor issues to already be addressed. If that isn't the case then don't release the Pro kit to the public and state just that as it was a prototype. It wasn't released that way in my mind. The RTR is a different story as it was tested and does work well minus the stinking STOCK servo and servo saver. :)

Again, I wasn't degraded the product or Caster. I was just alittle fustrated with all the small issues that you would expect to be addressed already. Hope that clears it up.

[jasonmaxamps.com]

I got it together and took it to the track tonight. The verdict: the aluminum a-arms gotta go. I DNF'ed twice with a bent front hingepin and the second time broke the front bumper as well. I'm going to put the plastic RTR a-arms on it and give another go next week.

I haven't had an issue at with the aluminum A arms. Maybe a stiffer pin is needed. Lets not be so quick to say things have to go. I've sent my F18 over the same jumps I hit with my 1/10th and 1/8th scale stuff and the only thing I have broke on the car so far was one side of the wing mount. And that's because I landed right on it. Sounds like a hardened pin may be needed.

Jason

[cbr74]

I haven't had an issue at with the aluminum A arms. Maybe a stiffer pin is needed. Lets not be so quick to say things have to go. I've sent my F18 over the same jumps I hit with my 1/10th and 1/8th scale stuff and the only thing I have broke on the car so far was one side of the wing mount. And that's because I landed right on it. Sounds like a hardened pin may be needed.

Jason


I never bent a hingepin with the RTR.. on the same track, same running gear.
There's actually multiple things that can be done to help reduce the potential for loss and I've sent Mike a few of my ideas.
But until then... I'm downgrading to the plastic a-arms.

And now for some pics:
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC00786.jpg
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC00787.jpg
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC00788.jpg

[hakmazter]

spikeitaudi, we are cool..... You are right about the release deal. I really expected that our team drivers would have bought more of them than they did and that we would have had all problems solved within 30 days....but Caster is a continual work in progress and everyone's opinion matters to me. And if it matters to me, then it matters to Mikey and it gets fixed.

My goal is to be a competitor with xray and I honestly believe that since 2008 with the help of everyone here as customers and team members, we moved from Cen/ThunderTiger to Hotbodies to Losi/AE and are gaining ground on Mugen.

But sometimes it takes work and frustration to get us there. I think that realistically out of the gate, we came out way ahead of anyone else in regards to issues and it has taken 2 months instead of 2 years.

I thank Jason and Ronald for this. I figure that in another month or 2, we will send off a car or 2 to the magazines.

[hakmazter]

CBR, I forwarded your ideas on....

I do have a few custom pro-emb coming....

It will have the esc, motor, and battery with no servo or radio.....

[cbr74]

CBR, I forwarded your ideas on....

I do have a few custom pro-emb coming....

It will have the esc, motor, and battery with no servo or radio.....

?&^

How about the Servo Saver? No servo = no good if the only true drop in option is the AE C1016.

[spikeitaudi]

spikeitaudi, we are cool..... You are right about the release deal. I really expected that our team drivers would have bought more of them than they did and that we would have had all problems solved within 30 days....but Caster is a continual work in progress and everyone's opinion matters to me. And if it matters to me, then it matters to Mikey and it gets fixed.

My goal is to be a competitor with xray and I honestly believe that since 2008 with the help of everyone here as customers and team members, we moved from Cen/ThunderTiger to Hotbodies to Losi/AE and are gaining ground on Mugen.

But sometimes it takes work and frustration to get us there. I think that realistically out of the gate, we came out way ahead of anyone else in regards to issues and it has taken 2 months instead of 2 years.

I thank Jason and Ronald for this. I figure that in another month or 2, we will send off a car or 2 to the magazines.

No worries Mike. I like the F18 alot and it can kick butt on the track, I just want to drive it instead of it sitting there. But your right. We will get to the end point shortly and have a fine product.

[hotcakes]

I have a ready to run and I have purchased the pro chassis. I am trying to convert but I need a part to hold the rear of the hinge pins on the front end. Does anyone no the part number for that part?
Thanks
Kenny

[cbr74]

I have a ready to run and I have purchased the pro chassis. I am trying to convert but I need a part to hold the rear of the hinge pins on the front end. Does anyone know the part number for that part?
Thanks
Kenny

The hinge pin blocks are the same front and rear, they are part number F18PT-003. You'll also need the 009 steering pivot block, 012 gear holder, 013 motor mount plate, 014 steering servo mounts and 016 battery posts. Also recommended, but not required is the 017 steering plate (drag link).

[Mini-me]

Thanks for the list CBR. The pro parts make this thing just plain sick looking. Wonder with the extra weight how the rest will hold up under added strain.

About the company and the product, I'm very happy with my trucks but do hope they work fast on the SS and shafts so we can use other wheels to make our trucks more personal.

[cbr74]

The Pro chassis will improve durability and handling (more rigid and lower CG). It's the Pro a-arms that I'm concerned about but we're working on a solution.


How bad do you want different wheels? Because changing to AE axles is involved but not that expensive. You need AE outdrives, dogbones (or in my case, MIP CVD's), and axles. Costs about $30. It's an option if you're not patient enough to wait for CR to make the needed changes to the axles. (and I'm not)

[jasonmaxamps.com]

Yes if your going High power Brushless go with the MIP CVD's I put in the AE outer stubs and wheels with no issues but running the F18 on 9.9 and 11.1 volt packs deemed to be to much for the front dog bones. As for the A -arms I haven't had any issues with them but it's sounding like a hardened pin is going to be needed.

Jason

[cbr74]

It's not actually the hinge pin's fault. No grade of material would survive the force applied to it by the a-arm once it breaks loose from the plastic bumper, though It wouldn't bother me to increase its diameter and case harden it. The real culprit is the plastic hinge pin retainer integrated into the front bumper. It's a weak spot that doesn't really come to light until you add rigid a-arms and rear mounts that don't flex.

[cbr74]

The second race night with the F18 Pro went much better. With the front a-arms from the RTR, I had no durability issues. I took second the first race, beat out only by a 1/16 E-Revo VXL who was racing out of class because he was the only one. (Guy could drive, too)
I took the second race by over a lap but none of the fast guys were racing in it.

So... all I changed was the front a-arms and everything worked perfectly.

One side benefit of that big aluminum plate for a chassis.. it works like a giant heatsink.

[momo]

How does it handle without a centre diff?

[cbr74]

On power understeer and off power oversteer like most any 4wd.

[hotcakes]

I am installing the pro parts onto my rtr. I want to do the diff fix. How do you tighten the 2mm lock nut inside of the outdrives? Did you have to turn an socket wrench down on a lathe so that it would fit inside of the outdrives?

[hakmazter]

http://www.wihatools.com/200seri/265serMM.htm

I am sure we will make them soon.

[cbr74]

I am installing the pro parts onto my rtr. I want to do the diff fix. How do you tighten the 2mm lock nut inside of the outdrives? Did you have to turn an socket wrench down on a lathe so that it would fit inside of the outdrives?

I used a set of very long and thin needle nose pliers to hold the nut in place.

[cbr74]

http://www.wihatools.com/200seri/265serMM.htm

I am sure we will make them soon.


Wouldn't help. 2mm locknut has a 4.5mm outer hex. The 4.5mm socket in your link has a 6mm O.D.. The I.D. of an F18 diff is 5.31mm.

[hakmazter]

darn it.

So you are saying it can't be machined down that far? If it was specific to that purpose, you would never break it. Now if you are using it to put on shock nuts on a 1.5r.....

[jasonmaxamps.com]

I wonder if Mikey could revamp the out drive half so that it would have the hex molded into it. Then all you'd have to do is drop the nut into the hole it would seat into the pre molded hex shaped hole and then just tighten the main screw. No need for a nut driver when the plastic will be holding the nut.

Jason

[cbr74]

That's one of the first suggestions I offered... to broach a hex into the outdrive and put a lock nut in it.

[jasonmaxamps.com]

I'll try something in a couple weeks once I'm settled into my new house in Spokane. I'll have to see if there's enough material to work with but I think a little heat applied to a nut and then pressing it into the plastic would work. Just more or less use the nut to melt it into the out drive. Once it cools push out that nut and replace with a good one and you'd be set.

Jason

[cbr74]

I'll try something in a couple weeks once I'm settled into my new house in Spokane. I'll have to see if there's enough material to work with but I think a little heat applied to a nut and then pressing it into the plastic would work. Just more or less use the nut to melt it into the out drive. Once it cools push out that nut and replace with a good one and you'd be set.

Jason

How would you keep it centered? Instead of trying to melt steel into plastic I think I'd prefer just to epoxy/CA/model cement the nut in place once it's threaded onto the diff bolt.

[cbr74]

Lookie what was on my porch today...
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC01250.jpg

[cbr74]

What's in the box...
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC01251.jpg

http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC01252.jpg

[cbr74]

Pre-assembled diffs.. with lock nuts. Yes!

http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC01254.jpg

[jasonmaxamps.com]

Ok Mike where's mine?? LOL

Jason

[jasonmaxamps.com]

Any news on the servo saver assembly??

[cbr74]

It's lookin like no. Bag A only contains one servo adapter and it's the same spline as before.

[cbr74]

Bag A assembled
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC01255.jpg

It seems like the tolerances are a little tighter this time around. The drag link fit snug with zero play. The pivot bellcrank had about 0.2mm fore and aft play in the pivot block so I shimmed it. (Not necessary, I'm just picky that way)

[cbr74]

Bag C contains an instructions supplement showing the install of two machined spacers between the chassis and the diff case. I'm not sure I'm crazy about this fix because it gives the front end zero kick-up.
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC01256.jpg

[cbr74]

Chassis with hinge pin blocks
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC01257.jpg

With battery posts
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC01258.jpg

With diff cases
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC01259.jpg

Diffs in
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC01260.jpg

Center shaft support on
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC01261.jpg

Center shaft in
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC01263.jpg

Steering in
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC01266.jpg

Center brace in
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC01268.jpg

Shocktowers on
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC01270.jpg

[cbr74]

A-arms on
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC01271.jpg

[REAPER]

Looks good

[hakmazter]

good start!

Man those towers are thick....

[cbr74]

Knuckles, hubs and turnbuckles on
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC01273.jpg

Shocks on
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC01274.jpg

Done
http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC01278-1.jpg

[Answer-RC]

All fits together as it should do now then?

[cbr74]

It's pretty solid.

[pfontaine]

for racing are you going to go to with plastic arms and shock towers? Looks like a tank! Gotta get mine soon.

[cbr74]

On my dedicated race rig I run the Pro chassis, steering, and c-hubs and the rest I stick to the plastic.

[pfontaine]

Any chance of a couple lid off shots of your ride?

[cbr74]

http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC01581.jpg

http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC01582.jpg

http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC01583.jpg

http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC01584.jpg

http://i631.photobucket.com/albums/uu32/cbr74/DSC01585.jpg

[ShagNastyEk9]

i got some 4mm carbon kevlar plate here that would make for a nice chassis for that

[cbr74]

i got some 4mm carbon kevlar plate here that would make for a nice chassis for that

And how would you put the front kick up angle on it? 4mm is overkill for 18th scale.

I wouldn't mind having some shock towers in CF though...

[pfontaine]

Awesome pic...I just orderd some similar "Pro" parts/mine is in stages of disassembly right now with Caster and a few assoc parts "on order" to rebuild (cue 6M dollar man theme song) it faster/stronger than before. I'll post some pics when I get it rebuilt...

[cbr74]

I'm always tinkering with mine. Yesterday I put on some Lunsford Punisher turnbuckles just because I had some laying around.

[ShagNastyEk9]

And how would you put the front kick up angle on it? 4mm is overkill for 18th scale.

I wouldn't mind having some shock towers in CF though...

i have a roll of kevlar also, I could make a chassis plate with the kick-up or mill an aluminum front section with kickup, that is slotted to lock into the chassis plate and bond it. towers are easy, i have a 4mm plate made up for use with 1/10 buggy towers, no need for doubling up towers

[cbr74]

Well.. like I said, 4mm is overkill for an 18th scale chassis. But if you've got a mill... some amazing weight savings could be gleaned from the F18Pro aluminum chassis which, at 3mm, is also overkill hence the need to mill it out a bit.

If you make some shocktowers and care to sell some, put me down for 4 sets.

[pfontaine]

What make is that battery holder?


Paul

[cbr74]

It's made by FullForce RC for the RC18. http://www.fullforcerc.com/RC18T.htm

[negev]

sorry for the post but i am a fan of the f18 pro

[troy97]

And how would you put the front kick up angle on it...

better late, than never:) What about using one more rear arm mount in front (F18-044 for RTR and F18PT-002 for PRO), instead of bumper? I believe it'll fit perfectly and you don't need to make any front angle, so that chassis can be absolutely flat if it's made of carbon.

[cbr74]

Good thinking but no, it doesn't work.. I tried it.

[pfontaine]

OK...I have now tried the MIP CVD's as well as Associated outdrives and dogbones/result...I prefer the dogbones/that may shock folks but they are more "free" than the CVD. In reality I am only using these parts to allow me the use of assoc RC18T foam tires/rims. Caster/Mikey are we looking at making an assortment of tires for the F18?

The rest of the car is Alum chassis/steering componets/plastic shock towers and arms/stock motor/esc/shocks...the car's weaknesses is

a. The chassis nose/replaced w/alum chassis
b. The C hubs/same
c. The servo/waiting for the new guy

Paul

[troy97]

Do the associated diff gears fit F18? If I buy not only outdrives, but the complete RC18 diff set, will it fit? And what about spur/pinion gears, are they the same?

[Toejam1974]

I know that the pinions work for sure...not sure on the rest.

[cbr74]

Diff gears.. no. Spur gears.. no. Pinions.. yes.