k8T setup

[Jonathan Bell]

Anyone have a base line setup, sorta middle of the road. Or any thing you have changed on the truck to make it more durable? thx

[vnmsgt]

Only physical thing I have changed for durabiliy is to make the steering rod ends captured and captured hinge pins. Other than that the truggy is solid. I also notched out the front arms a little for more steering which is posted with pics in this section somewhere. I am running 7-25-3 in my truggy for diff fluids. I have the stock 3 degree rear toe plate and I have my rear upright hinge pins in the lower holes and the rear upper arms in the upper most outer hole on the upright and innermost lower hole in the tower. The ackerman is set in the rear hole but I also have the new ackerman plate on mine. My truck is somewhat loose in the rear but not alot and will turn on a dime off power in turns. It has a slight push on power but only in real sharp 180 degree turns which I just tap my brake and swing it around. I am running KMW Big Bores now but will change to Casters when I get them. My shock positions will not matter to you because my KMW's are off of a X-ray buggy and short shocks on the front but they work fine.

[Jonathan Bell]

thx man I just was curious where everyone was at. I can't wait to get the truck but the mail service just seems to pass me by everyday! :( Cam said he sent my order out monday maybe I will hit him up mon. and try to see whats up.

[vnmsgt]

I do not think too many guys are racing the truggy right now. I do not see why, the thing is awesome. I think the buggy is just more popular right now. I am waiting for my 2-3 orders also. I need to call monday. I think he is slacking lately! LOL! I used to order monday and get my stuff by friday. Takes longer now. Maybe getting alot more business which is a good thing for caster but as with everything there will be some growing pains.

[janderson78]

John,

Sorry for the delay. I am in the military and with election season here I have been busy. But here it is.

Diffs = 7-10-3
Shocks Front = 4 x 1.5mm holes and 40 weight oil
Rear = 2 x 1.5 holes and 35 weight in the heat of the day and 30 at night

Shocks Front Outside on Arm inside on tower
Rear Inside on arm and tower

[vnmsgt]

So how is the setup everyone is running with the big bores? I built mine and used the 1.4mm shock pistons and have 30wt up front and 45wt in the rear with 2 of the thick shock spacers on each side in the rear and the blue springs. With this setup the truck flies through the rough stuff like a cadillac!! Reminds of my old ST-RR! BUUUUT off of jumps seems to bottom out pretty easily, the shocks feel really light when you move them up and down. I am wondering if I should go with the 1.3mm and maybe thicker fluids. I have the same fluids and pistons on the Buggy and they feel good but I am assuming with the added weight of the truggy is why I think it is too light of fluids or wrong pistons.

[hakmazter]

Cam is running 50wt....

[vnmsgt]

Cam is running 50wt....

Yes but that is on the buggy right?? He is not currently running a truggy. The truggy is heavier. What I have in my buggy seems fine for me now till I drive it more and see how it is.

[Jonathan Bell]

I"ll try to remeber everyhing off the top of my head if I forget anything let me know.

Front shock location-tower-one in from outside-arm-outside hole
Rear shock location-tower-one in from outside-arm-inside hole
track width-about 3 threads showing on lower balls(adjust camber with upper ball after setting track width)
upper arm -one spacer behind-one in front
shocks-BB's-45wt front-50back-blue springs all around
rear camber link-inner lower on tower-upper outside hub
wheelbase-long
hole in rear hub-upper
Droop(shock length)front-111mm-rear-124mm
brake bias-70/30
antisquat-bushing with hole down
camber-2* all around
diffs-7/10/3
ride height-front-arms level-rear-level or a tick above for a little more steering
engine-ninja bo1a
clutch-caster carbon/1.0 springs
pipe-jp3
tires and foams-panther gators 38's/ofna red foams.
Swaybar length about 5mm showing all around.

One thing I changed over the weekend was the antisquat possition. The track was dry and dusty in spots and the new engine made a little more power then I was used coming out of the corners and made for a little short on traction. The changed helped a bit but the track came IN for the mains and I definately could tell the change I made. I think I'm going to swap it back to where we were before.
Hope this helps let me know if you have any questions.

[Jonathan Bell]

also the track was high bite red clay with smaller jumps if you have larger jumps I would up the shock oil to maybe 60 rear and 50 front.

[hakmazter]

I would think the heavier the vehicle, the heavier the shock oil.... Yes it was his buggy...

[vnmsgt]

Thanks. What about the 1.3mm pistons over the 1.4? Think that would make a noticeable difference? I think I will order some Fusion higher wt fluids. There were some bigger jumps where I was running.

[Jonathan Bell]

1.4 is probably going to take the rough a little better but you will probably need a little thicker oil. However the 1.3 would probably give u a little better corner speed due to a little less body roll. I would try both and just see what ur track and conditions call for. Find a happy medium that way if run on different tracks the truck will be somewhat consistent from surface to surface. Hope this helps.

[razzor]

im thinking the 1.4 would suit looser dirt tracks and teh 1.3 would be on tracks with more bite/traction shocl oil you would have to play with to finda balance depending on the track condition.

[vnmsgt]

I was reading in the new Xtreme RC about anti-squat and it said if you have your rear hinge pins angle UP from rear to front (insert upper hole) you have anti-squat and it helps your truggy from squatting alot while accelerating. My holes were down and my K8T has always squatted pretty good which I did not like. Can anyone elaborate on this. I just changed to the upper hole to try out this weekend.

[razzor]

Have you downloaded the Xray setup manual ???
It will explain what you need to know.

[YourDogg]

does anyone else find the truggy to be nose heavy??

[vnmsgt]

Have you downloaded the Xray setup manual ???
It will explain what you need to know.

Yeah I got that and was reading through it but some people got different thought sometimes especially when it comes to a certain truck.

[vnmsgt]

does anyone else find the truggy to be nose heavy??

Is it when you are going off of jumps? You will learn how to jump properly as time goes by. Most new people (including when I was) can not even jump a speed bump without flipping over frontwards LOL!. You are letting off of the gas too soon and causing the truck to nose dive off of the jumps.

[bc24fl]

Is it when you are going off of jumps? You will learn how to jump properly as time goes by. Most new people (including when I was) can not even jump a speed bump without flipping over frontwards LOL!. You are letting off of the gas too soon and causing the truck to nose dive off of the jumps.

That, and could also be your brake assembly settings.

[YourDogg]

Is it when you are going off of jumps? You will learn how to jump properly as time goes by. Most new people (including when I was) can not even jump a speed bump without flipping over frontwards LOL!. You are letting off of the gas too soon and causing the truck to nose dive off of the jumps. yes jumps. but i wasnt letting off the gas. for me to keep it level i have to do around half throttle in the air. or if i just keep the throttle at a certain spot and hit the jump and still leave it there (slower speed) it will still nose dive. if i am going close to or full throttle off a jump then i need around half throttle maybe more some times to keep it from nose diving. just seems like i have to give a little more gas to keep it good in the air then you should. i have driven my freinds mgt 4.6 and you can let off the gas around the tip of the jump and it will go straight but mine will nose dive.

[vnmsgt]

With the car off (not running) but the switch turned on and the controller on, lift up the rear of the car and roll the front wheels and see if they drag. Then lift up the front of the truck and roll the rear wheels and see if they drag. If any do then that is probably you problem with nose diving and adjust your brakes so they do not drag when you let off of the throttle.

[YourDogg]

well ill try that but it might not matter atm cause i cant start it.

[maz64]

if its not the brakes thats sticking, then try a high downforce rear wing if your not already using one, it does make a difference

chris

[vnmsgt]

I know some of you guys are running thinner oils in the rear and thicker in the front of your buggies but does it go the same with the truggy too? I have been used to thinner front and thicker rear but am going to try the other way around.

[razzor]

The thicker oil up front also helps get the nose up in jumps.

[Jonathan Bell]

I think I'm at 60wt all around now. I changed out the front springs for the yellows just because they changed up the track and made it tighter. MUCHO steering probably the setup for indoor.

[vnmsgt]

Well I used to run 60wt all around back when I had my mantis and it was good. But when I spoke to a driver and said that the thinner oils let the truck rotate more in the turns instead of keeping it stiff I tried it and liked it alot more.

[YourDogg]

so whats would be a good medium between stiff and having better steering?? for oils?

[j_blaze14]

or the wing angle...

[Jonathan Bell]

I have went down in the rear oil to 50 wt just because it's getting a bit cooler and the oil will feel a bit thicker. 60 up front and blue springs all around seems to be where I always come back too.