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vnmsgt
03-03-2008, 07:10 AM
Well after the first race of the season for me I have some tips and tricks:

Buy the upgraded hinge pins that are nut and bolt from caster. E-clips come out way too easy and constantly.:mad::mad:

Heat shrink your driveshafts where the tighten down to the pinion gear on the diffs. Grub screws can come out and pins might too.

Grind a small notch in the radio box to put the transponder wires between the box cover and box without having to route them underneath into the box (PAIN IN THE A$$)

BigC123
03-03-2008, 01:19 PM
Here is a mod that keeps your arms from coming off during a race this is from experience. HAHA
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh292/BigC123ZX1R/2008_0303Rcpics0009.jpg
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh292/BigC123ZX1R/2008_0303Rcpics0008.jpg
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh292/BigC123ZX1R/2008_0303Rcpics0007.jpg

BigC123
03-03-2008, 01:22 PM
Just take off the ball end and drill out casting be carefull not to drill threads out of ball end, and then use longer screw and washer and then locknut, problem solved never come off agian.:cool:

vnmsgt
03-03-2008, 02:08 PM
I like that! Going to have to see if I get it done before the next race.:D

vnmsgt
03-23-2008, 05:41 PM
well finally did that mod after going to practice today and the only problem I had was the arms popping off of the balls. Here are pics of mine.
http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii47/vnmsgt/casterk8t005.jpg
http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii47/vnmsgt/casterk8t004-1.jpg

zigzag
03-24-2008, 05:42 AM
the solution !! RMV Product ...

RMV Product (http://www.rmv-deutschland.de/shop/product_info.php/products_id/2630/cPath/7_33/reckward-tuning/rt-steering-ball-6.8mm-(2)-#-losi-8ight-series.html)

http://www.rmv-deutschland.de/shop/images/product_images/popup_images/2630_0.jpg

vnmsgt
03-24-2008, 10:34 AM
Where do guys find some of this stuff. Some stuff I have never seen before. Those are perfect but how much do they cost in U.S $??

vnmsgt
03-24-2008, 10:56 AM
Figured I post this pic in this section too in case someone just looks in here. Put a spacer in between the ball and the ackerman plate to lower the ball and you get more steering when the suspension is at full travel. http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii47/vnmsgt/casterk8t006.jpg

Here is another mod I might try. I found it at another site. Here are 2 pics. You are supposed to get more steering too.

http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii47/vnmsgt/steeringmod1.jpg
http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii47/vnmsgt/steeringmod2.jpg

zigzag
03-24-2008, 11:11 AM
Where do guys find some of this stuff. Some stuff I have never seen before. Those are perfect but how much do they cost in U.S $??

You can site on your website : RMV Product !

You can pay whith paypal.

razzor
03-24-2008, 11:38 AM
Carolina's rc carries RMV products.
http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scripts/prodList.asp?idcategory=50

They have the progressive springs too :)
Give them a shout .

zigzag
03-24-2008, 01:17 PM
hi

this product are on car of French champion racer, on the MBX5 : Renaud Savoya :cool:!!

http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/xcgal/albums/savoya_diet/Montpellier_2008_038.JPG

vnmsgt
03-24-2008, 02:37 PM
He has those shocks laid down pretty far!!

razzor
03-24-2008, 03:09 PM
Its his own conversion hes experimenting with.
Think hes trying out different stuff and passing on info to Mugen.
For teh worlds there will be a good few new cars released.
Talk of the MBX6 being released before event.

vnmsgt
03-24-2008, 10:24 PM
Figured I post this pic in this section too in case someone just looks in here. Put a spacer in between the ball and the ackerman plate to lower the ball and you get more steering when the suspension is at full travel. http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii47/vnmsgt/casterk8t006.jpg


http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii47/vnmsgt/steeringmod1.jpg
http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii47/vnmsgt/steeringmod2.jpg

I figured there is enough meat on the arm that you can grind off and not have a problem. I mean if you do not have your endpoint turned all the way and your knuckle is hitting the arm it should not hurt to this and turn more right?

hakmazter
03-25-2008, 12:40 AM
that pic looks like a bent shock shaft waiting to happen. why would he do that? it adds weight with the lower shock mount and there is no way it lowers the center of gravity. I guess I am missing something....

razzor
03-25-2008, 04:43 AM
VNMSGT if you can get the buggy/truggy working well with out the excessive steering throw then it will be faster and more efficient.
The more you have to turn the more rolling resistance you will have which makes you slower in the corners.

vnmsgt
05-24-2008, 08:27 PM
Here are some skid plates I just got off of ebay. They are only $7 for a set of 3! They are from DERACING.NET. They are for the Mugen MBX5R and 5T. They are a direct bolt on and protect the chassis.

http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii47/vnmsgt/chassisskidplates001.jpg

vnmsgt
06-24-2008, 11:24 PM
Just installed a 150cc fuel tank on my K8T recently and added some extra fuel line for the race this sunday. Now maybe I do not have to pit 5 times for a 20 minute main like I did last time! Very easy to install, just have to drill one hole for the front mount and cut the locating pin off of the bottom of the original tank mount and your done! Also installed buggy hubs to the K8T. Had some 1/2 offset LPR wheels and tires that were like new and were too wide if installed with stock hubs on K8T. By installing the buggy hubs you lose the half inch you would gain with the 1/2 offsets and it stays the same width as with zero offset wheels.

skeller
08-19-2008, 08:54 PM
I have some good friends that still drive the OCM truggy....they're wanting to know if the Caster front upper arms will work on the OCM. Also....if they do....are they the same length? Any help would be appreciated.



Thanks,



SK

hakmazter
08-19-2008, 10:45 PM
that would be a question for vnmsgt....he probably needs another post anyways....gotta keep out in front...

vnmsgt
08-20-2008, 07:48 AM
adding to my post count here is the info you need. The Caster upper arms are the same exact width as the OCM where the pin goes through. The length of the Caster arms are about .5mm or so shorter than the OCM but will work fine. Only about 1 thread on the pivot ball or so. I have a friend who lives by me running a OCM truggy with ALL Caster Arms on it and they work perfect.

hakmazter
08-20-2008, 08:19 AM
I knew he would know. thanks Chris!

j_blaze14
11-02-2008, 08:27 PM
hi

this product are on car of French champion racer, on the MBX5 : Renaud Savoya :cool:!!

http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/xcgal/albums/savoya_diet/Montpellier_2008_038.JPG

i have the losi ones of those too, how about the nut in the front of the hinge pin? brilliant. what screws are those for the bulkheads?

Jonathan Bell
11-02-2008, 08:53 PM
There regular hex head screws only every screw in the car was milled to reduce all the weight they could...even the glow plug. Savoya's dad is a machinist.

vnmsgt
12-22-2008, 02:12 PM
Anybody els tried this mod yet? I think this was on Fabtechs car. Made the front knuckles more upright then angled back. I think it would give you more steering response but take away a little of high speed stability. Anybody want to chime in? I was thinking of doing this.

http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii47/vnmsgt/K8TWOWPICS046-1.jpg

j_blaze14
12-22-2008, 02:35 PM
yup, its less "caster", it should improve low speed handling but make high speed a little squirley, but you can just adjust it back if its too much. cool to keep in mind tho.

Jonathan Bell
12-22-2008, 06:27 PM
Anybody els tried this mod yet? I think this was on Fabtechs car. Made the front knuckles more upright then angled back. I think it would give you more steering response but take away a little of high speed stability. Anybody want to chime in? I was thinking of doing this.

http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii47/vnmsgt/K8TWOWPICS046-1.jpg
do yourself a favor and don't do this. To me this looks like "i'm trying to find something that works but I don't know that much about setup" kinda thing. If you want less caster then the stock kickup plate offers, change the kickup and you have achieved exactly what he has got here except you didn't loose durability. I have honestly found more caster to work best for me. If he wanted more initial response/low speed steering from what i'm looking at I would have went to rear hole on ackerman, stood the shocks up more, or change the rear toe plate. Or fix the real problem IMO tighten that servo saver spring up some more! JMO ;)

razzor
12-23-2008, 01:24 PM
I would have to agree with JB as well
Same can be gained by other setup changes

vnmsgt
12-23-2008, 02:31 PM
I do not understand how you can gain the same doing other setup changes. Whatever else you would do will NOT make the front knuckles stand more upright then doing what was done here. I see how it could make it a little weak but he has not broken it yet. Would be the same as dremeling out the front knuckles or lower arms to gain more steering. Yes it could be gained in setup of other things but is just easier to do that. JMO.

cheesecake
12-23-2008, 06:59 PM
change the front kickup plate with a different one will make the front stand up. its a option for the plastic pieces but caster does not make them in aluminum.

j_blaze14
12-23-2008, 10:17 PM
i have plenty of steering already, if i need more i'll keep this in mind. maybe a backup set of upper arms can be converted for those "tight" tracks. i guess the same could be done on the other end for a reverse effect, hmmm.....

razzor
12-24-2008, 01:37 AM
dont see the need to mod teh arms when the change can be done with teh kickup plates and you can generate more steering through other settings.

Rocketman
12-25-2008, 04:17 PM
do yourself a favor and don't do this. To me this looks like "i'm trying to find something that works but I don't know that much about setup" kinda thing. If you want less caster then the stock kickup plate offers, change the kickup and you have achieved exactly what he has got here except you didn't loose durability. I have honestly found more caster to work best for me. If he wanted more initial response/low speed steering from what i'm looking at I would have went to rear hole on ackerman, stood the shocks up more, or change the rear toe plate. Or fix the real problem IMO tighten that servo saver spring up some more! JMO ;)
Ok, Do you know how much changing the kickup changes the caster of the arms? I will tell you, not enough to avoid hitting the bottom A-arms(hence why alot of people are dremmeling off some material on those arms)and almost the sole purpose for this mod job.(Anybody that has raced Revos will find this mod very familiar)If it becomes a problem, it takes 2 minutes to put another top arm back on. Another driver actually achieved the same result with Hyper 7 steering knuckles.....the knuckles are molded with less of a caster angle so the knuckles steering arms do not touch anywhere.The servo saver spring is almost tightened down completely to keep the wheels turned under acceleration.It does scrub a bit of speed off when turning into a corner with this mod, but I can cut under the guy in front of me, and still keep a bit thicker fluid in the rear diff to allow for some extra on power steering coming out. if there are some setups out there that may achieve better results I would love to see them.I dont claim to know everything about set-ups, but I have tried a few different things.As far as right now........she is very fast and handling like she's on rails"ka
Trial and error,Thats usually how I learn!:D

Jonathan Bell
12-25-2008, 05:10 PM
Ok, Do you know how much changing the kickup changes the caster of the arms? I will tell you, not enough to avoid hitting the bottom A-arms(hence why alot of people are dremmeling off some material on those arms)and almost the sole purpose for this mod job.(Anybody that has raced Revos will find this mod very familiar)If it becomes a problem, it takes 2 minutes to put another top arm back on. Another driver actually achieved the same result with Hyper 7 steering knuckles.....the knuckles are molded with less of a caster angle so the knuckles steering arms do not touch anywhere.The servo saver spring is almost tightened down completely to keep the wheels turned under acceleration.It does scrub a bit of speed off when turning into a corner with this mod, but I can cut under the guy in front of me, and still keep a bit thicker fluid in the rear diff to allow for some extra on power steering coming out. if there are some setups out there that may achieve better results I would love to see them.I dont claim to know everything about set-ups, but I have tried a few different things.As far as right now........she is very fast and handling like she's on rails"ka
Trial and error,Thats usually how I learn!:D
easy bud keep your pants on....lol If it's working for you by all means keep it going. I'm assuming that you race down south so maybe you won't have any trouble with durability because of it being warm all the time. Under 30* I wouldn't recommend it. I broke 2 upper arms in the same day running indoor at 18*. Both were due to not coming off a face square. So...if you like it keep it but i wouldn't recommend it, being that was the question...."what do you think of this mod"? JMO;)

Rocketman
12-25-2008, 05:10 PM
Almost forgot........Merry Christmas everyone!

vnmsgt
12-25-2008, 06:18 PM
Ok, Do you know how much changing the kickup changes the caster of the arms? I will tell you, not enough to avoid hitting the bottom A-arms(hence why alot of people are dremmeling off some material on those arms)and almost the sole purpose for this mod job.(Anybody that has raced Revos will find this mod very familiar)If it becomes a problem, it takes 2 minutes to put another top arm back on. Another driver actually achieved the same result with Hyper 7 steering knuckles.....the knuckles are molded with less of a caster angle so the knuckles steering arms do not touch anywhere.The servo saver spring is almost tightened down completely to keep the wheels turned under acceleration.It does scrub a bit of speed off when turning into a corner with this mod, but I can cut under the guy in front of me, and still keep a bit thicker fluid in the rear diff to allow for some extra on power steering coming out. if there are some setups out there that may achieve better results I would love to see them.I dont claim to know everything about set-ups, but I have tried a few different things.As far as right now........she is very fast and handling like she's on rails"ka
Trial and error,Thats usually how I learn!:D

So you are saying with that mod you did not have to grind out the lower arms because the steering arm does not hit? I did not notice that when I was looking at your truck. Was that the only reason for doing this mod? How do you think it affecting your turning compared to the way we are grinding the lower arms?

j_blaze14
12-25-2008, 09:27 PM
thats true, with less caster you can get more front droop before the knuckles hit the arms, hmmm....

Rocketman
12-26-2008, 11:23 AM
Its a give or take situation...either grind some here or grind some there.It does seems to be a bit more aggressive going into turns which is how I like to drive. It does still hit just a small amount at full droop...or at least where I have mine set. Like I said before, the hyper 7 steering knuckles seem to be the ticket for this type of feel without having to grind anything. Next time you see me you can check it out Chris!

vnmsgt
12-26-2008, 12:17 PM
Its a give or take situation...either grind some here or grind some there.It does seems to be a bit more aggressive going into turns which is how I like to drive. It does still hit just a small amount at full droop...or at least where I have mine set. Like I said before, the hyper 7 steering knuckles seem to be the ticket for this type of feel without having to grind anything. Next time you see me you can check it out Chris!

You racing at Wow this sunday? Everyone from Bartow is going to including Kevin. I am also racing at Farmers saturday if anyone wants to go.

TTR_EB4
01-26-2009, 12:04 AM
anymore tips n tricks people have found to do wit this truggy?

TTR_EB4
01-26-2009, 12:07 AM
:O mines got the bolt mod on the arms on the front, but it has E-clips on the back, which ones come off more, rear or front? (if it was all e-clips?)

vnmsgt
01-26-2009, 06:34 AM
All my clips liked to come off on the lower arms. You could just shoo goo them and they will stay on alot better.

Rocketman
01-26-2009, 04:17 PM
Dont know if you have done it yet, but to help to keep from stripping out ring,pinion, or spider gears, do the bulkhead mod with captured hinge pins

slakr
04-10-2009, 05:18 PM
Trying these on my K8T next race...
FT RC8T Aluminum Wheel Hex, narrow #89329
http://67.199.85.166/main/productdetails.php?text=89329&category=NULL

j_blaze14
04-10-2009, 06:07 PM
ca diff cup screws (top half only), dremel lower arm where knuckle hits, do not dremel knuckles they turn enough already.

bbennett
04-13-2009, 11:43 PM
Dont know if you have done it yet, but to help to keep from stripping out ring,pinion, or spider gears, do the bulkhead mod with captured hinge pins

Nopics

hakmazter
04-14-2009, 12:59 AM
also known as the Kevin Bell mod.....

Rocketman
04-14-2009, 02:35 PM
also known as the Kevin Bell mod.....
LOL...ok

hakmazter
04-14-2009, 02:57 PM
wasn't he the one that did it or am I mistaken?

vnmsgt
04-14-2009, 03:49 PM
wasn't he the one that did it or am I mistaken?

I think Steve did it before and only for extra insurance so nothing was mentioned about it. Kevin did it to cure a problem he was having so it was brought up then.

Rocketman
04-14-2009, 08:32 PM
LOL.....it doesnt matter as long as it works!

hakmazter
04-14-2009, 10:32 PM
It matters to me. It is the official Rocketman mod.

KEVIN23
04-14-2009, 10:33 PM
mod was done i believe by me first,but was done in collaboration(sp?) with steve on the phone, was something we talked/worked out together.
I believe it to be a "must do" mod using big power in the k8t

hakmazter
04-14-2009, 11:18 PM
Fine it is the Florida's Fast Drivers' mod!

KEVIN23
04-14-2009, 11:20 PM
lmao, it is just a team caster driver mod

vnmsgt
04-15-2009, 06:30 AM
mod was done i believe by me first,but was done in collaboration(sp?) with steve on the phone, was something we talked/worked out together.
I believe it to be a "must do" mod using big power in the k8t

How about be call it the rocket23 or kevinman mod!! BTW I do not need big power in my K8T to beat you guys at WIN!:p Oh the $h1t talk is getting deep! LMAO

Rocketman
04-15-2009, 02:19 PM
How about be call it the rocket23 or kevinman mod!! BTW I do not need big power in my K8T to beat you guys at WIN!:p Oh the $h1t talk is getting deep! LMAO
No, but you do need to know how to drive......I havent seen it anywhere in the hop-up section, but do they sell drivers? Maybe you can get one with you team discount, probably would finish alot higher in the standings then!:&!@

vnmsgt
04-15-2009, 02:26 PM
No, but you do need to know how to drive......I havent seen it anywhere in the hop-up section, but do they sell drivers? Maybe you can get one with you team discount, probably would finish alot higher in the standings then!:&!@

heh um...... Need I remind you...... check the pic below buddy. I did not see you in the standings, oh I think you did not want to compete with me.....:#$ YEAH BABY!!:p

Just a tip.... Everyone that talks smack to me about being short, slow, Mexican etc. (ROCKETMAN ESPECIALLY) and I beat you at WIN, you will NEVER hear the end of it!!! HAHAHAHAHAHAHA (in a low tone of voice)

http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii47/vnmsgt/Caster%20ZX15R/rocketmanCF017.jpg

Dave D
04-15-2009, 03:03 PM
!!! HAHAHAHAHAHAHA (in a low tone of voice)


Keep thinking that becouse we all know you wear womens underware and deam about Michael Jackson every night...lol:&!@:&!@"ka

Rocketman
04-15-2009, 04:09 PM
heh um...... Need I remind you...... check the pic below buddy. I did not see you in the standings, oh I think you did not want to compete with me.....:#$ YEAH BABY!!:p

Just a tip.... Everyone that talks smack to me about being short, slow, Mexican etc. (ROCKETMAN ESPECIALLY) and I beat you at WIN, you will NEVER hear the end of it!!! HAHAHAHAHAHAHA (in a low tone of voice)

http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii47/vnmsgt/Caster%20ZX15R/rocketmanCF017.jpg
How did you finish 2nd when you were the only one in the race?

bc24fl
04-15-2009, 08:11 PM
Chris, rocketman is waaay faster than you hands down. So much faster his stickers fly off his ride. ;)

vnmsgt
04-15-2009, 08:36 PM
Chris, rocketman is waaay faster than you hands down. So much faster his stickers fly off his ride. ;)

Fastest guy does not always win;) Lets get you to come on out to the race too..... I am sure there will be some fire extinguishers there so no need to worry.

bc24fl
04-15-2009, 08:54 PM
Fastest guy does not always win;) Lets get you to come on out to the race too..... I am sure there will be some fire extinguishers there so no need to worry.

Damn my reply went waaaay over your head. Go read it 10 times and get back to me. ;)

hakmazter
04-15-2009, 10:43 PM
How about be call it the rocket23 or kevinman mod!! BTW I do not need big power in my K8T to beat you guys at WIN!:p Oh the $h1t talk is getting deep! LMAO

Hows about we call it the caster homos mod in reference to our favorite person from Florida...theGeneral.

hakmazter
04-15-2009, 10:44 PM
Fastest guy does not always win;) Lets get you to come on out to the race too..... I am sure there will be some fire extinguishers there so no need to worry.

I can attest to fastest guy.....I figure if the main at wow would have been about 5-10 minutes longer, i would have moved up a spot into second....

vnmsgt
04-16-2009, 06:34 AM
Damn my reply went waaaay over your head. Go read it 10 times and get back to me. ;)

ahhh I get it now.?&^

vnmsgt
05-05-2009, 10:57 AM
GET THE F8T TRUGGY SHOCK TOWERS!!!!!!!!! Kevin Bell drove my truggy at WIN for practice and saw how different is runs and it was way better. You will NOT be disappointed. Changes the way the whole truck turns and handles the track.

hakmazter
05-05-2009, 03:10 PM
the number has something to do with F8 and then a 7....

It is in the parts fusion section.

vnmsgt
05-05-2009, 03:52 PM
Here are the links to the towers

http://casterracingusa.com/product.php?productid=511&cat=37&page=3

http://casterracingusa.com/product.php?productid=512&cat=37&page=3

Dave D
05-05-2009, 03:59 PM
Don't you want the pro or are they different geometry
EXOP-07 Fusion Pro Front Shock Tower (http://casterracingusa.com/product.php?productid=451&quantity=1)

vnmsgt
05-05-2009, 04:55 PM
Don't you want the pro or are they different geometry
EXOP-07 Fusion Pro Front Shock Tower (http://casterracingusa.com/product.php?productid=451&quantity=1)

That one is for the buggy you posted. The ones I posted are for the F8T PRO Truggy. Yes the F8T Towers are a different geometery. They are ALOT wider than the K8T towers.

Dave D
05-05-2009, 04:58 PM
Here are the links to the towers

http://casterracingusa.com/product.php?productid=511&cat=37&page=3

http://casterracingusa.com/product.php?productid=512&cat=37&page=3


So you change out both front and rear? I thought it was just the front.

Do you do both on buggy also?

hakmazter
05-05-2009, 05:09 PM
Buggy ones have the same geometry, just a different shape. The fusion sport is the setup in our opinion and I do not have any in stock as they are rtr quality...lol.

But the carbon ones are set up to our specs.

Dave D
05-05-2009, 05:12 PM
Buggy ones have the same geometry, just a different shape. The fusion sport is the setup in our opinion and I do not have any in stock as they are rtr quality...lol.

But the carbon ones are set up to our specs.

I still have a problem with shoveling dirt with the front shock towers a little too often to try the CF ones at the moment but in due time I'll bite as they are on my list to lighten things up.

vnmsgt
05-05-2009, 06:33 PM
So you change out both front and rear? I thought it was just the front.

Do you do both on buggy also?

I change both the front and back on the Truggy. The rear tower is almost a 1/2" wider on EACH side and the front about a 1/4" or so on EACH side. The shocks stand up way more than the old shocks. I have not tried them on the buggy.

PitMan
05-06-2009, 05:34 AM
try the front k8t truggy tower on the buggy on some of the middle holes as it transforms the front end of the car and just free's everything up it just feels better on the track say 3 guys who tested this mod out at neo09

just been looking at some truggy mugen towers i had at home that are alot wider then the std k8t towers i think i need to look at some mugen towers for the buggy and see the hole arrangement as i am still not convinced by the caster towers as the hole arrangement seem to be on a lateral angle ........

and as you move in a hole you loose droop

vnmsgt
05-06-2009, 06:37 AM
try the front k8t truggy tower on the buggy on some of the middle holes as it transforms the front end of the car and just free's everything up it just feels better on the track say 3 guys who tested this mod out at neo09

just been looking at some truggy mugen towers i had at home that are alot wider then the std k8t towers i think i need to look at some mugen towers for the buggy and see the hole arrangement as i am still not convinced by the caster towers as the hole arrangement seem to be on a lateral angle ........

and as you move in a hole you loose droop
The F8T truggy shock towers are alot wider just like the mugen towers. Take a look at them in some pics.

Dave D
05-06-2009, 10:22 AM
as the hole arrangement seem to be on a lateral angle ........

and as you move in a hole you loose droop

ah, someone finally put it into english for a dumby to understand. Thank You

j_blaze14
05-06-2009, 08:24 PM
i've been running the inside holes only and i like it better, whatever floats your boat i guess. if you do the f8t towers you need buggy shocks up front right?

vnmsgt
05-07-2009, 06:27 AM
i've been running the inside holes only and i like it better, whatever floats your boat i guess. if you do the f8t towers you need buggy shocks up front right?
NOPE

Jay_Son
05-27-2009, 04:06 AM
I did the captured steering rod end mod but it binds at full droop what should I change? should I dreemel the area nearest the washer a little?

Mr Fusion
05-27-2009, 09:58 AM
Try trimming the rod ends like I did.... if this is what you are talking about.

scroll down... post #25
http://www.casterracingusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1596&page=2Scroll

Kneisley !
05-27-2009, 12:55 PM
try the front k8t truggy tower on the buggy on some of the middle holes as it transforms the front end of the car and just free's everything up it just feels better on the track say 3 guys who tested this mod out at neo09

just been looking at some truggy mugen towers i had at home that are alot wider then the std k8t towers i think i need to look at some mugen towers for the buggy and see the hole arrangement as i am still not convinced by the caster towers as the hole arrangement seem to be on a lateral angle ........

and as you move in a hole you loose droop
I run the k8t towers on my buggy and the f8t towers on the truggy .. Made a difference on both might want to try them out.. Both chassis work very well atleast in my area .

Jay_Son
05-28-2009, 01:01 AM
yes I will do that...because that bind really messes with steering at full droop thanks

vnmsgt
05-28-2009, 11:20 AM
I did the captured steering rod end mod but it binds at full droop what should I change? should I dreemel the area nearest the washer a little?

That was the problem with the captured steering mod with the stock turnbuckle rod ends. Binding at full droop. I tried alot of things including grinding but I felt it would brake easier then. I switched to OCM turnbuckles and it was fixed. I would recommend getting the new Caster rod ends and turnbuckles for the truggy and problem solved. Mugen ones will work too if you have some laying around and want to save some $$.

Jay_Son
05-29-2009, 01:06 PM
That was the problem with the captured steering mod with the stock turnbuckle rod ends. Binding at full droop. I tried alot of things including grinding but I felt it would brake easier then. I switched to OCM turnbuckles and it was fixed. I would recommend getting the new Caster rod ends and turnbuckles for the truggy and problem solved. Mugen ones will work too if you have some laying around and want to save some $$.

ok cool I appreciate the assistancce with this will finally get to work on my ride today so I'll update after I try somethings

j_blaze14
08-01-2009, 05:21 PM
I run the k8t towers on my buggy and the f8t towers on the truggy .. Made a difference on both might want to try them out.. Both chassis work very well atleast in my area .

yeah, the buggy is a totally different car with truggy shock towers (somehow, not sure why) and theres more camber options for the rear too.

JonehRC
09-28-2009, 09:32 PM
Hi, Im newbie in this Caster K8T ... coming from rctech forum here. Ok after i read thru all the pages before this, since i got this old version K8T.. let me list what i thought SHOULD i mod or change:

1) steering ball end and ball.. get the new one (JR-0142)
2) use buggy hub
3) new lightened and strengthened gears (helical cut)
4) body? mount?

anything else?
thanks in advance. oh ya, i already ran it with the stock setup.. i mean i do fill the gears with diff oil: 10/10/5 and with extended hub...

i found this, steering not enough .. the rest not fully tested but seems to hold up.. anything else guys.. thanks in advance. :D

PitMan
09-29-2009, 11:02 AM
hi JonehRC

yeah use the new steering ball end and the new helical gears are a must even use the new balls on the back camber links

not sure about using buggy hubs but if you mean buggy hex's then thats the way to go and use offset wheels to capture the hex pin

setup wise use the xray setup guide to get yourself more steering

Shane oc
01-16-2010, 11:31 AM
hey guys, i just ordered my k8t 09 specs,
I was looking for a setup for a tight astro track (high bite) and with a good few small jumps. maybe some of the British guys who have experience on astro would know, but anyone who can help it would be appreciated!
Im in Ireland! its guna be the first caster in Ireland i believe! i will put myself on the map when i get my ride!

Thanks
Shane

vnmsgt
01-17-2010, 03:38 PM
I have never ran in astro turf but I would think lighter diff fluids would be better to run. I run 5-5-2 on my K8T but its on dirt. The fluids are pretty light so it might work.

Shane oc
01-19-2010, 11:59 AM
i would think that because there is traction , you could run higher in centre for better accelaration but would that tale away from cornering?

slim6971
02-03-2010, 07:03 PM
I am new to caster and I am getting the older K8T and what the differences between the new truck and old one might be.

Thanks Chris

vnmsgt
02-03-2010, 10:30 PM
I am new to caster and I am getting the older K8T and what the differences between the new truck and old one might be.

Thanks Chris

Which older one? The 2009 compared to the 2010 which nobody has yet?

If you mean the 2008 version you are getting then some of the differences are:

-It has eclips instead of captured hinge pins
-Metal brake discs instead of fiber ones
-125cc fuel tank compared to 150cc
-Big Bores maybe but they might have been put in late 2008 versions
-Updated ring and pinion gears (2009 version fit right in no problem)
-New steering turnbuckles (captured)

Thats about it.

The 2010 model is supposed to have (from what I can see in pics)

-All new gearing (gear ratio) with smaller spur gear
-lightened outdrives
-Stand up steering servo
-New ackerman plate
-New shock towers

Everything from one truck to the other should be able to work so you can eventually add the stuff to yours without a problem as they wear and such.

slim6971
02-14-2010, 03:06 PM
Any weak ares of the K8T to look over? Just got mine started looking at it and have to order a few parts. Just need to know some areas of concern. This truck already has a different set of gears in it.

Any Info would be great. Thanks Chris

vnmsgt
02-15-2010, 04:37 PM
Any weak ares of the K8T to look over? Just got mine started looking at it and have to order a few parts. Just need to know some areas of concern. This truck already has a different set of gears in it.

Any Info would be great. Thanks Chris

Only weak areas I can tell you are you need to put longer screws and nuts on the chassis braces. They like to vibrate the screws loose and come out if not done. Also make sure you put the rear lower captured hing pin (nut and bolt) on the outer wheel hub where it attaches to the lower arm. If you use the stock pin and small screw to hold it in, the arm will flex enough in a hit to pop the pin out of the arm and pop your rear hub out. Make sure to constantly check your rear center driveshaft where it attaches to the pinion gear as it sometimes will work a little loose and needs to be adjust and tightened. Thats about it. Truck is really solid after the 2009 changes.

j_blaze14
02-16-2010, 09:25 PM
upgrade the bearings on the diffs and bulkheads if you have spiral cut gears, dremel a notch on the flat spot of the pinion gear (right where the grub screw leaves a mark) so the cvd does not back out any even if a bit loose. shim the diffs so they are a bit buzzy but turn easy and ca the 4 diff screws (screw them 1/2 way in then 1/4 drop of ca and tighten all the way).

http://i446.photobucket.com/albums/qq186/j_blaze14/circus09148.jpg

scottyelkins
04-23-2010, 05:49 AM
dont u hate that..

expertbasser
06-18-2010, 06:20 AM
I had that same issue with another buggy & truggy.

Thanks!!!!!!!!

expertbasser
06-18-2010, 06:24 AM
Which older one? The 2009 compared to the 2010 which nobody has yet?

If you mean the 2008 version you are getting then some of the differences are:

-It has eclips instead of captured hinge pins
-Metal brake discs instead of fiber ones
-125cc fuel tank compared to 150cc
-Big Bores maybe but they might have been put in late 2008 versions
-Updated ring and pinion gears (2009 version fit right in no problem)
-New steering turnbuckles (captured)

Thats about it.

The 2010 model is supposed to have (from what I can see in pics)

-All new gearing (gear ratio) with smaller spur gear
-lightened outdrives
-Stand up steering servo
-New ackerman plate
-New shock towers

Everything from one truck to the other should be able to work so you can eventually add the stuff to yours without a problem as they wear and such.


IS there ANY release date on the 2010 version?

hakmazter
06-19-2010, 09:53 PM
They are out and we have them here.

YDBD
06-20-2010, 05:50 PM
I made a editable and printable PDF for the K8T here (http://www.yellowdunebuggy.com/images/K8T/K8T.pdf).

expertbasser
06-22-2010, 06:42 AM
Well after the first race of the season for me I have some tips and tricks:

Buy the upgraded hinge pins that are nut and bolt from caster. E-clips come out way too easy and constantly.:mad::mad:

Heat shrink your driveshafts where the tighten down to the pinion gear on the diffs. Grub screws can come out and pins might too.

Grind a small notch in the radio box to put the transponder wires between the box cover and box without having to route them underneath into the box (PAIN IN THE A$$)

VNMSGT:

After a year of racing my MBX6T, the setup I used on it ALL YEAR was 10K, 10K, 10K in the diffs, & 35wt shock oil all around. THIS setup has not failed me at all! It did exactly what I wanted WHEN I wanted it to. A couple of fellow racers asked HOW did I drive it THAT loose? I like loose. Loose is fasssssst! I changed my handling characteristics by changing tires ONLY!

My question, since many of you all have had the Caster K8T's, theoretically, wouldn't my setup be really close to the same on the Caster as it would the 6T?

Thanks & I cant wait til the 30th of THIS MONTH!!!!!

Greg Johnson.

vnmsgt
06-22-2010, 05:52 PM
On this NEW K8T I would say yes because all the new gearing is more like the 6T now. The old gearing was way different. I just changed to 5-10-5 in my diffs and it rotates really nice is a little more loose then the 5-5-2 I ran before.

expertbasser
06-22-2010, 10:00 PM
I made a editable and printable PDF for the K8T here (http://www.yellowdunebuggy.com/images/K8T/K8T.pdf).


I cant get the link to work! Maybe my crapola puter?

YDBD
06-22-2010, 10:11 PM
It's a .pdf file and you need adobe reader to view...shouldn't be a problem...

expertbasser
06-23-2010, 06:56 AM
It's a .pdf file and you need adobe reader to view...shouldn't be a problem...


Email sent bro!

Thanks!!!!!!!

chaserogers14
12-21-2010, 09:56 PM
do the k8t 2010 mounts fit the holes on mugen 6t bodies? VNMSGT those pics of yours with the punisher are sick.

expertbasser
12-22-2010, 06:30 AM
do the k8t 2010 mounts fit the holes on mugen 6t bodies? VNMSGT those pics of yours with the punisher are sick.

I think a bunch of bodies will "FIT".

On my K8T & ZX1.5R, both 2010 versions I used J-Concepts illuzion bodies made for the RC8B & RC8T. On the buggy, it HAS TO BE for the RC8B. The body for the RC8 will not work!

HOPE this helps!

chaserogers14
12-22-2010, 12:02 PM
ok so do the rc8b bodies line up? I figure the buggy bodies would be close, the k8t must be wider then the 6t if you believe rc8t boies fit better thanks
also in the future can the k8t/f8t shock towers have body mount holes that arent in the shock mounting positions?

Sein
01-16-2012, 12:06 PM
I figured I would ask in here, is there any plans to make the truggy chassis 4 to 5mm longer in the future? Just wondering....