NO BRAKES

[YourDogg]

i was doing my break in today and i found my breaks were not working. everytime i pushed the trigger on the radio forward it made the engine cut out. it drives forward good but i cant stop. i might have it too tight but if not any ideas?? also whats a good temp when driving the K8T???

[Mayor Frithe]

When pushing the brakes and the engine flames a couple things can be wrong, probably more than that but... anyway. Could be your idle gap being too small, next could be the clutch, either the bearings or springs. It could be a combination of all of them. Most idle gaps should be at about 1mm to start with, then tune from there.

As far as temps for engines. While engines differ quite a bit, the Novarossi/RB engines I run usually don't go over 250-260 and if they do I start looking for reasons why. Tuning, drive train binding, etc. I would say most engines should stay in the 220 - 260 range. I have always felt that once an engine has been run for a while at 250 or so you should always run in that temp area. Reason why, the engine has be "run-in" at that temp and any cooler running will over wear the seal because the sleeve isn't expanded enough. Then the next time you run at 250, your engine will not have the compression it used to at that temp. Just my thoughts on piston sleeve sealing.

I know many people brag all the time that their engine is at 200 and is a power house. For some engines that may work, but most need to be in the 240-260 range to make good power and have good run time fuel wise.

[vnmsgt]

I have found the if I hit my brakes and my car keeps shutting off that I have to barely turn in my idle screw to get the idle gap a little bigger. If it is too small, when you hit your brakes it shuts the slide in the carb too much. Do this first BEFORE you adjust your brakes. After this is good then you have to take the collars on the shafts for your brakes that pull on the brake linkages and move them in a little bit by loosening the grub screw on them to move them. You should only have to do a little bit to get your brakes working.

[Jonathan Bell]

First thing I would do is take off the air filter and if the carb has a venturi take that out and use a caliper and set idle gap at 1.3 mm. Just set the caliper for this and eyeball down through the gap in the caliper and make the idle gap match. I have found on most engines this is a good initial setting. AFter I set the idle gap I wont touch the idle again. If I need it to idle more I will use the low speed needle for that. Alot times what will happen is peeps will get way off base on tune. the idle will be jacked up to high the top will be to lean, and the bottom way to rich. This is when you will encounter the "run-on" situation. ie at the end of the straight you let off the throttle and the car sounds like it still has throttle input. I have had major success with this method. hope this helps

[razzor]

Use a 1mm-1.2mm drill bit and put it in the gap on the carb.
Also on your brakes adjust teh ally stoppers in wards a bit so that you have more clamping pressure on teh brakes.
You can look through teh tips section for advice too.

[Mayor Frithe]

Also what could be happening is the throttle linkage isn't fully closing the carb and when the brakes are hit the carb fully closes and the engine dies. Either way the idle screw probably needs to be turned in a bit.

[YourDogg]

ok thanks guy good to know i will go and try opening the idle then.

[bc24fl]

YourDogg, did you replace / adjust the throttle assembly from factory setting?

Also, I took razzor's advice and that improved my braking alot.

[YourDogg]

well to get everything working on my K8T it just took time adjusting everything. i am almost sure i have everything done after putting half a gallon through it. will do more tests tomorrow.