Should I break in my motor/engine?

[slick4time]

Should I break in my motor/engine for my 1/8th scale nitro?

[skeller]

Should I break in my motor/engine for my 1/8th scale nitro?



YES!!!!

[bc24fl]

Slick please see the following link.

http://www.twistedliquidracing.com/uploads/Go-Engine_Marine_Breakin_Warranty08.pdf

Like I told you earlier, I normally do the break-in procedure based on the engine manufacturer suggestions. That link will get you what you want.

Also, what is your primary language? Are you French?

[lowlife88]

heat cycling is to me, the best way to break in a motor if you have the time to do it right.

[slick4time]

Slick please see the following link.

http://www.twistedliquidracing.com/uploads/Go-Engine_Marine_Breakin_Warranty08.pdf

Like I told you earlier, I normally do the break-in procedure based on the engine manufacturer suggestions. That link will get you what you want.

Also, what is your primary language? Are you French?
English, sorry... suffer from dislexia.

[Deznuts05]

bc23fl you're link is broken :(

Hopefully, this will help:

Breaking-in a Rc Nitro 2-stroke Glow Engine

Author: Gregory Alexander (http://www.articlesbase.com/authors/gregory-alexander/68924.htm) http://www.articlesbase.com/images/icons/people-blue.png (http://www.articlesbase.com/ranking-explain-authors.php) | Posted: 22-08-2008 | Comments: 0 (http://www.articlesbase.com/collecting-articles/breakingin-a-rc-nitro-2stroke-glow-engine-532276.html#comments) | Views: 243 | Rating: (199 (http://www.articlesbase.com/ranking-explain-articles.php)) http://www.articlesbase.com/images/icons/stars-blue.png (http://www.articlesbase.com/ranking-explain-articles.php) (? (http://www.articlesbase.com/ranking-explain-articles.php))

Engine only takes a few hours, but the benefits are worth the investment in time. In a nut shell RC 2-stroke engine use a tapered sleeve to create compression, while most full scale cars use piston rings. The process of breaking the engine in is to make sure that the piston and the sleeve have the best fit possible. Like all things RC it just depends on who you ask about breaking-in an engine.

From experience I can tell you that all the methods work well, when in doubt refer to the manual, they will have break-in procedures specific to your engine. the only important thing to remember is not to be too harsh on the engine, break it in slowly taking your time. Remember your not racing yet...

The 7 Step Break in Procedure
While most people recommend running about 5 tanks of fuel through the engine I generally like to run 7, I just like to make sure that I get the engine broken-in
correctly. If you look at the oil that comes out the you'll see that by the 5th or
sixth run the tiny bits of metal will be gone from the flow, initially you can see the engine breaking-in from the oil and unburnt fuel.
Needle Settings
Refer to your manual for the specific settings for your engine. The problem is that because each RC Nitro Engine is different you can't just copy your buddies settings, you have to work these out. Break in settings must be as rich as possible, this keep the engine cool and the excess fuel and oil will help flush out the tiny metal bits that come off during the break-in.
Fuel Tank #1
I'll idle the engine for the entire tank, you often need to keep the throttle open about 10% during the first few minutes, at least while the engine warms up. Keep the revs as low as possible, but don't change the mixture needle settings just yet. Once the tank is complete let the engine cool down for about 5 - 15 minutes. Be sure to leave the piston at dead bottom center while it cools, or else the shrinking sleeve could cause a problem if the piston is also there.
Fuel Tank #2
After the initial idle stage I'll run the car with as little throttle as possible, but keep the car moving, I make sure when I accelerate (not more than 25%) I'll do it smoothly and consistently. It's important to start putting some load on the engine, because when you race your RC Car there will be load on the engine. Try to match your break in conditions to your expected running conditions as closely as possible. The idea is to slowly build up the revs of your engine until your able to hit max speed by the end of the 7 th tank. Run your car in a figure-8, as turning makes the slightly harder. After the 2nd Tank you can start to lean your motor out a little.
Fuel Tank #3 -#5
Now we're ready to start getting some speed out of your RC Nitro Car. What I do is start to run the car up and down a long straight, with figure-8 patterns at a low idle between them. I will run at max 25% throttle for about a minute, then rev the RC car flat out for at most 2 seconds. then return to a the standard max 25% throttle. Make sure you get your car to rev right through it's range, but don't keep it at for too long.
Fuel Tank #5 - #7
I continue as above, but shortening the periods between the bursts of full throttle. I also start to work out the tune of my car, I only change the air / fuel mixture before the 5th tank if I'm struggling to keep the engine running. After the 5th tank I start to lean the mixture by 1/8th turn. I still like to run it until there are no small metal bits in the exhaust discharge.
Once your done with the above break-in procedure I would still run my RC Car gently for the first couple of times on the track, this will ensure that you get the most life our of your brand new RC Nitro Engine.

http://www.articlesbase.com/collecting-articles/breakingin-a-rc-nitro-2stroke-glow-engine-532276.html

[Jonathan Bell]

they left out the most important thing in my opinion. Heat the engine to 200 or so with a heat gun before you start it and wrap the head with something to keep it there. Let the engine completely cool between tanks and making sure to return the piston to bottom dead center while it cools so the sleeve can contract. I keep heating the engine even after breakin when i run it until it looses the metal pinch at Top dead center. This will give the rod bushing much more life due to the amount of stess it takes off it in the first gal of life. You will find a 100 different breakin methods if you search this one seems to be good also as long as you follow what i stated also. JMO

[j_blaze14]

i'm a cyrul/drake fan myself.

[Deznuts05]

i'm a cyrul/drake fan myself.

and what method is that?

[yoshgixxer]

its basically speed breaking in the engine..let it idle up to temp in a leaner setting then a normal break in setting,and then holding it full throttle while richining it back up to let the access fuel cool it back down, do this a few cycles, theres more to it then that but thats the basic idea..and since your richining it way back up it wont peak any high RPM's..scary, i treid it and it worked fine

[Deznuts05]

OFNA's Website:

What Is The Best Way To Break-in An Engine? What Type Of Fuel Should I Use?

We recommend Byron's fuel at 20% nitro content to run-in (break-in) the engine. The best way to break-in the engine is to follow the steps below:


Step 1. The first few runs of your new engine are critical. Once your engine starts, place the car on a stand so that its wheels can't touch the ground. Let the engine idle at low rpm for a few minutes (two or three minutes will do), then shut the engine down and let it cool. During this procedure, it's also important that the piston not be at the top of the cylinder while the engine is cooling. Part of what's taking place during break-in is that the engine's mating parts are being heat-cycled, which means they are expanding when the engine is hot and contracting when it cools. Heat cycling stabilizes the metal and allows mating parts to fit better against each other. Keeping the piston out of the upper portion of the cylinder (which is smaller in diameter than the lower portion in order to create a better seal during combustion) will allow the cylinder to properly contract as it cools-without interference from the piston. To figure out where the piston is in relation to the cylinder, just turn the flywheel-it will become difficult to turn when the piston is at the top of the cylinder, where the fit between the piston and cylinder is its tightest. Just turn the flywheel until the piston is in the middle of its "easy turning" part. Repeat the above steps three or four more times.


Step 2. After you've heat-cycled your engine, you can finally put it on the track. But don't get too excited yet - you must run it with a very rich high-speed needle setting. Lots of blue smoke should be coming from the exhaust, and the engine should sound "blubbery." During this procedure, it's vital that you avoid prolonged use of full throttle, which could strain the engine. You should instead "blip" the throttle as you drive the car to avoid spending too much time in one particular rpm range. Run the engine using these settings for three or four tankful's of fuel, allowing the engine to cool in between runs.


Step 3. Once you've put about six to eight tanks of fuel through the engine (as outlined above), it's time to begin leaning the high-speed needle and making some power! Begin by leaning the high-speed needle (by turning it inward, or clockwise) by about one-hour (if you imagine the needle as a clock face, one full turn of the needle would equal 12 hours). Run the car for a minute or so, then bring it back in and lean the needle by another one hour increment. Repeat this process until the engine begins to achieve good rpm, but it shouldn't be allowed to "scream" quite yet. The engine should still be creating lots of blue smoke from its exhaust. Before you achieve that screaming race setting, we recommend that you run your engine for a few more tankful's in this "almost race" setting. Once you get the needle set to where your engine is making good rpm, richen it (by turning the needle counter-clockwise) by about a quarter of a turn-this is your final setting.

Step 4. Once you've found a good setting for the high-speed needle that allows the engine to make good power yet still push plenty of blue smoke from the exhaust (especially when the car exits a turn), it's time to set the low-end needle and the idle-stop screw. For now, set the idle-stop screw so that the engine will idle at a moderate rpm without stalling. Bring the engine up to operating temperature by driving it for a few minutes. Now stop the car and listen to the engine's idle speed. If the engine idles fast but then slows down in just a few seconds, the low-speed needle is probably set too rich. Lean the low-speed needle (by turning it clockwise in one-hour increments) until, after running a few more laps, the idle stays high for about twenty seconds or so when you stop the car. Once you've done this, use the idle-stop screw to make the final adjustment of the idle speed. Setting your engine's idle speed isn't a contest to see how low you can get it without stalling the engine! Your goal when setting the idle should be to allow the engine to run at moderate rpm without the clutch being engauged whatsoever. Your car should be able to sit at a standstill when idling. If you have to hold the brake, the idle is too high. If you have to blip the throttle to prevent stalling the engine, the idle it too low. Afterthought: Nitro powered R/C vehicles can be tons of fun, or they can cause tons of frustration. The difference between success or failure lies with the break-in process. If you follow these steps, have patience, and use your noggin, you're assured of success. Rushing through the break-in procedure or worse, forgetting it altogether, is a recipe for disaster. Tuning your engine is the hardest part of nitro racing. But once you've learned how the carburetor works, and which screw does what, it will all become second nature. So when you're running your car, you'll always know exactly what to adjust to gain the highest level of performance possible.
Advanced Engine Tuning
by Jim Newman

Advanced tuning procedure for Hyper 8 / Picco engines (or generally any engine): Well I imagine you are at the fine tuning point now. So set the car on a starter box or block.

1. Set the HSN to about 2½ turns out. To adjust the LSN, rev the engine up 2-3 times quickly to clean it out, then let it settle down to semi high idle.
2. Immediately pinch the fuel line near the carb and hold it. Count how many seconds it takes for the engine to rev up and die. Ideally it should take about 5-6 seconds and the engine should rev up smoothly and steady and shut off cleanly.
2.1 If it revs up almost instantly when you pinch the fuel line then it's too lean. Richen it up a ½ turn and try again. It it takes longer than 6 seconds and it surges near the end and struggles to die then it's too rich. Lean it ½ turn and try again. You want it a bit on the rich side for the next part but not over rich.
3. Now find a long straight smooth stretch of road. Run the car easy back and forth for a couple minutes to get it warmed up.
4. Then make a high speed pass at full throttle. It should be very rich and have low performance.
4.1 Make 2 passes and bring it in. Lean the HSN about 1/8th turn.
5. Make a couple more warm up passes and then make 2 full throttle passes.
5.1 The engine may or may not show improvement for the first 2-3 adjustments. Be patient and go slowly. Keep repeating making a couple warmup passes and then 2 high speed passes and leaning the HSN only. Don't change anything else.
6. At some point the engine should begin to show a marked increase in lowend accelleration and top end performance at the same time.
6.1 Pay very close attention to how then engine sounds at top speed and how fast it seems to be going.
7. Keep leaning the HSN a little at a time until you don't notice any improvement in the top speed or the engine begins to 'stumble' at full throttle.
7.1 As soon as you reach the engines peak then richen up the HSN about 1/4 turn.
8. Now go back to the box/block and readjust the LSN again so that it runs for about 5-6 seconds with the fuel line pinched off.

It will take some time to do all this. If you're still with me at this point your engine should be generally at it's ideal tuning curve. If it does not perform well at this point you have a carb or fuel problem.

***WARNING REGARDING BOTTOMING OUT LSN:***
Bottoming out LSN is a very big no-no. When you bottom the LSN what you are bottoming it out into is the inside of the so called MSN. Again this is not a needle. It's what's called the "spraybar". When you set the LSN all the way it binds inside the spraybar and then turns it along with the LSN. Also, if you have bottomed the LSN hard enough to bind it in the end of the spray bar tip then you probably have flared the end of the spray bar and damaged it.

When you make an adjustment go by "hours". ie, one full turn is 12 hours. 1/2 full turn is 6 hours and 1/4 turn is 3 hours. On the stock carb 2 hours either way when near perfect will cause the engine to change about 50-60 degrees in temp and affect acceleration significantly. Go easy.

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[TheKaiman]

I use a break in bench for my engines. Never failed me yet.

[razzor]

No matter which way is used the most important thing is the heat cycles it goes through.
Running a motor very rich initially is ok to get any filings or foreign particles out but prolonged running will cause more wear and stress to the conrod.
inbetween tanks i always let teh motor cool down for 10 mins before leaning out 5 mins and running another tank. On the Axe motors i runnin on the bench for about a liter before driving it around.