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AimeeD
08-02-2011, 10:19 PM
Oh yeah! Just got my shocks built, what's everyone running shock weight? #2 or #3 pistons? etc...

MantisWorx
08-02-2011, 11:13 PM
http://rcshox.com/shoxshop/catalog/index.php?cPath=23_29

AimeeD
08-02-2011, 11:20 PM
http://rcshox.com/shoxshop/catalog/index.php?cPath=23_29

1.1 in the front seems a little tight

MantisWorx
08-02-2011, 11:42 PM
they are floating pistons and designed to be tuned, they come like that so that you can tune them, i am running 1.2/1.3 front and 1.2/1.4 rear with great results!

audriusv
08-03-2011, 01:24 AM
Oh yeah! Just got my shocks built, what's everyone running shock weight? #2 or #3 pistons? etc...

My best setup until now is with T-Work's machined 1.3mmX8 tapered shock pistons... Oil weight depends on track. I go Losi 30-35 rear and 40-45 front. Springs are new Mugen front MUGE0571, rear MUGE0575.

Will be trying Marcus new pistons (when get money to buy them...). i think they will work better.

If you will use standard pistons, I would suggest to drill additional holes. Setups with many holes tend to work better.

Jtuepker1
08-03-2011, 10:31 AM
Run the 1.2 in front with 30 weight and 1.3 with 30 weight in rear. Im on indoor and hard pack clay track. Outdoors i bump fluid to 40 front and 35 rear and reset my ride height.

Indoor i run 23mm up front and 25 in rear and outdoor 26 front and 28 rear, only time i hit chassis is our nasty triple cause i normally undershoot it and hit the top.

AimeeD
08-03-2011, 11:07 AM
Yeah, that's better. Sounds more like it, I went ahead and did 1.2 front w/ 35 and 1.3 in the rear with 40. Which with the two different pistons the shock weights even out.

Jtuepker1
08-03-2011, 11:25 AM
Forgot to mention on myset up i just a stiffer spring in front than the rear, front is 1.55 mm thick and and rear is 1.4mm thick. Dont know the brand springs picked them up off rc tech in a bundle of stuff with caster spare parts.

Same springs for my outdoor set up also.

Also did you polish your shock shafts, i didnt as first and went through the teflon spacers in a weekend, polished them and put new ones in and they are still going strong. Will be using the new ones with my 2 stage pistons.

AimeeD
08-03-2011, 03:41 PM
Forgot to mention on myset up i just a stiffer spring in front than the rear, front is 1.55 mm thick and and rear is 1.4mm thick. Dont know the brand springs picked them up off rc tech in a bundle of stuff with caster spare parts.

Same springs for my outdoor set up also.

Also did you polish your shock shafts, i didnt as first and went through the teflon spacers in a weekend, polished them and put new ones in and they are still going strong. Will be using the new ones with my 2 stage pistons.

i'm running the gold springs in the front and blue in the rear. & I know what you're saying about the shafts, building them I noticed they were a little rough. Too late now.

Jtuepker1
08-03-2011, 03:51 PM
Those are what i was running for the spring on mine for outdoors. They worked great, but i have the shock socks on mine since its been so dang dry in the midwest for a little more prevention of dust building up.

hakmazter
08-03-2011, 10:33 PM
I have always polished the shock shafts with compound and a buffing wheel. Losi, Caster, GS, HPI, etc....

Now Marcus says 2000 grit and lighter fluid which is new to me.

AimeeD
08-03-2011, 11:04 PM
For me it's always been about the tracks I run, I set my cars up for the specific track. If I go from small scale to big scale, I will change everything I need to before hand... Very specific about how I like my cars set up. Anyone feel me?

expertbasser
08-04-2011, 06:33 AM
THAT is strange, for me at least. I set up MY rides as close to "neutral" as possible. This way, to get the "tighter' or "looser" feeling, all I gotta do is a tire change. 99% of the time, after getting the closest to perfect tire, its hooked up & dialed! By the same token, I also have another tote FULL of tires only! LOL!!!

Jtuepker1
08-04-2011, 10:38 AM
Yeah clay i run barcodes for the time being, thinking of switch or the new aka rebars. But for shocks im pretty set, awaiting the new pistons and teflon rings, got new orings sitting there and will hit the shaft with 2000 and lighter fluid a little to smooth it back out if needed. Will run off marcus set up and then work with a fluid change and fine tune with springs and preload.

AimeeD
08-04-2011, 12:56 PM
Aka is the way to go. If you're fast with a neutral set-up... think how fast you would be with a set-up specific for that track ;)

Jtuepker1
08-04-2011, 01:01 PM
Only problem i have is thursday is indoors friday is a huge outdoor clay track, and saturday is large to mediumish track that is hardpacks but dusty and lightly wetted once in a while, no way the same set up works on all three, ive tried. i did buy more upper rear links and only other main adjust is to shock preloads and to tire change.

AimeeD
08-04-2011, 01:44 PM
Only problem i have is thursday is indoors friday is a huge outdoor clay track, and saturday is large to mediumish track that is hardpacks but dusty and lightly wetted once in a while, no way the same set up works on all three, ive tried. i did buy more upper rear links and only other main adjust is to shock preloads and to tire change.
Yeaaah! That's what i'm saying!

Jtuepker1
08-04-2011, 02:14 PM
Ok Aimee taking your advise just hit up amain and ordered some aka rebars, seems people at my track are liking them. Tires for the buggy and sc as those were recommended also to pick up. Also got the 2.2 to 3.0 with 17 mm hex from DE Racing since i converted my blitz over to that size for hubs.

AimeeD
08-04-2011, 10:49 PM
Sweet! Yeah, my favorite tires are AKA's. Hands down.

Jtuepker1
08-09-2011, 03:27 PM
Aimee, give the 2 stage pistons a shot. I went to the track i always have issues with and not being able to put down solid time cause handling on the track is tough cause of how rough the dirt is. This was glued to the ground hugged turns no pushing and excessive sliding. With this set up i actually get to just off power turns more than having to tap brakes to help get the nose in and get it around.

AimeeD
08-09-2011, 04:25 PM
running 2's in the front and 3's in the rear.

Jtuepker1
08-09-2011, 08:10 PM
I got the stock 1.2 lower and 1.3 upper running 30w in front and 35 in rear and she is handling like a dream took almost 1 sec off but they also tuned down a jump that was causing some major hell on our front straight.

MantisWorx
08-10-2011, 04:19 PM
Nice glad they are working for ya! FYI the upper should be 1.2(blue) and lower 1.3(green). for some reason 30wt was too stiff in the front for me 25 worked better and i am using 30 in the rear but my track is also very loose and soft. im going to try 1.3compression in the front friday. still cant get the buggy to turn like i want it to. the rear is just too stuck, may have to stiffen it up just to get it to rotate. what springs are you using?

Jtuepker1
08-11-2011, 03:01 AM
The blue caster spring 1.55mm on my calibers. Running front at 23mm ride height and 25 in the rear. 2.5 rear toe and 2.0+ tow in front. 1.5 camber in front, rear is inside top mounting position on tower and upper outer mount on the rear hub. running diffs at 5 5 3 with mugen oil.

Front spring im running 2mm spacing for shock and rear is 4 mm

Yes i have green on bottom and blue on top miss rear the label. You should color code the labels.

MantisWorx
08-11-2011, 09:04 AM
i just bought color markers yesterday! im going to spend saturday upgrading the site with information.

im running 7 7 5 for oils thinking about changing the rear to 7

Jtuepker1
08-11-2011, 10:45 AM
Been thinking about jumping up to a 7 7 4 or 7 7 5 set up but dont know. The 5 5 3 is decent but i have to change the diffs after a three race weekend. Thursday indoor friday outdoor small track and saturday outdoor big track. Might redo diffs before next weekend.

AimeeD
08-12-2011, 11:29 AM
I set mine up 5 10 3, and boy are they smooth!!

Jtuepker1
08-12-2011, 11:52 AM
Going to try out a 7 7 4 this weekend at the local track for next weekends race, trying to get the guy who runs the races to set up the timer so i can check lap times during tuning. See what i can get down to. Went 5 5 3 the last time and wanting to see what happens with the 7 7 4

MantisWorx
08-12-2011, 01:51 PM
is it just me or do the yellow springs seem harder than the blues???

Jtuepker1
08-12-2011, 02:37 PM
my blues are firmer than my yellows i used calipers on mine
yellows 1.45mm
blues 1.55mm

coppercanyon
08-12-2011, 02:57 PM
Measure the spring thickness, apparantly there is no color coding as far as softer or stiffer springs goes, they make the different colors in all spring rates so the only way to know for sure is measure them. Mine didnt have any yellow in the kit , just red and blue.

MantisWorx
08-12-2011, 10:14 PM
very strange, installed the yellows and the ride height went up and the car is noticeably stiffer???

Jtuepker1
08-12-2011, 11:09 PM
caliper your and measure them. Might be a different batch that the yellow are thicker.

hakmazter
08-13-2011, 03:18 PM
There has been a debate as to what spring colors mean what and there is no conclusion as far as I can tell. I have seen some say that blue is harder than yellow and vice versa, etc.....

We need a standardized spring rate and a correct color chart. I'll ask Mikey to see if there has ever been an answer.

Jtuepker1
08-13-2011, 04:15 PM
I just ordered a set of spring for the rc8 shocks, tried some from a friend this morning, they hit the unthreaded shocks great and should work for the threaded bodies also.

Front set ACS89195
Rear set ACS89196