Buggy Set Up Info

[BigC123]

Buggy Setup Guide

This is a 'Quick Reference' setup guide, a cheat sheet. You can print it down for your convenience.

This setup guide assumes you have some sort of 'standard setup' to begin with. One should come with your kit. You can also find standard setups on manufacturers' websites.
It also assumes your car is in perfect working order. (Bearings spinning freely, nothing dragging the ground, no binding in the suspension,...)
Tires


Tires are always the first element in setting up a car. If you've got the right tires, you're 90% there.


Springs


Stiffer Stiffer springs make the car feel more responsive, more direct.
They also help the car jump a little better and higher.
Stiff springs are suited for high-traction tracks, which aren't too bumpy.
Softer Softer springs are better for (mildly) bumpy tracks.
They can also make the car feel as if it has a little more traction in low-grip conditions.

Stiffer Front The car has less front traction, and less steering. It's harder to get the car to turn, the turn radius is bigger and the car has a lot less steering exiting corners.
The car will jump better, and maybe a little further.
On very high-grip tracks, it's usually beneficial to stiffen the front, even more than the rear. It just makes the car easier to drive, and faster.
Softer Front The car has more steering, especially in the middle part and the exit of the corner.
Front springs that are too soft can make the car hook and spin, and they can also make it react sluggishly.
Stiffer Rear The car has more steering, in the middle and exit of the turn. This is especially apparent in long, high-speed corners.
But rear traction is reduced.
Softer Rear The car has generally more rear traction, in turns as well as through bumps and while accellerating.

Damping


Heavier Thicker oil (heavier damping) makes the car more stable, and makes it handle more smoothly.
It also makes the car jump and land better.
If damping is too heavy, traction could be lost in bumpy sections.
Softer Soft damping (and springing) is better for shallow, ripply bumps.
It also makes the car react quicker.
Damping should always be adapted to the spring ratio; the suspension should never feel too 'springy' or too slow.
Heavier Front The turn radius is wider, but smoother. The car doesn't 'hook' suddenly.
The car is easier to drive, and high-speed steering feels very nice.
Softer Front The steering reacts quicker.
More and better low-speed steering.
Heavier Rear Steering feels quick and responsive, while the rear stays relatively stable.
Softer Rear Feels very easy to drive, the car can be 'thrown' into turns.
More rear traction while accellerating.
If one end of the car has slightly heavier damping than the other, then that end will feel as if it has the most consistent traction and the most stable when turning in and exiting corners.
A car with slightly heavier rear damping, or slightly lighter front damping will feel very stable turning into corners on bumps or whoops sections. It won't feel 'touchy' at all.

Caster


More More caster aids stability, and handling in bumpy sections.
Less Less caster increases steering drastically.
Steering feels much more direct, the car turns tighter and faster.

Ride Height


Higher The car feels better in bumps, and jumps better.
It can feel tippy, or even flip over in high-grip conditions.
Lower The car feels more direct, and it can potentially corner a bit faster.
It's also harder to flip the car over.
Lowering one end of the car, or putting the other end higher up, gives a little more grip at the lowest end, but try to avoid big differences in ride height between the front and the rear.

Wheelbase


Shorter A short wheelbase makes the car feel very nimble, and good in tight turns.
This is a good idea for very small and tight tracks, without big jumps or bumps.
Longer The car becomes a lot more stable, adn better in wide, high-speed turns.
This is good on wide-open tracks.

Anti-Squat


More More anti-squat generally makes the rear of the car more sensitive to throttle input.
The car has more steering while braking, and also a little more powering out of corners.
On high-traction tracks, it may feel as if the car momentarily has more rear traction accellerating out of corners.
A car with more anti-squat can also jump a little higher and further, and it will soak up bumps a little better, off-power.
A lot of anti-squat (4° or more) can make the car spin out in turns, and make the rear end break loose when accellerating.
Less Less anti-squat gives more rear traction while accellerating on a slippery or dusty track.
It also gives more side-bite.
Less anti-squat will make the car accellerate better and faster through bumpy sections.
Very little anti-squat (0° or 1°) makes the rear end feel very stable. It also makes power sliding a lot easier.
Note that anti-squat only works when you're accellerating or braking, it does absolutely nothing when you're coasting through turns.
The harder you brake or accellerate, the bigger the effect of anti-squat is.

Shock Pistons


The assumption is made that if pistons are changed, the viscosity of the oil is also adapted, to give the same static feel. (Same low-speed damping)
Smaller Holes Smaller holes mean more 'pack'. Pack means the damping gets very stiff, or almost locks up, over sharp bumps, ruts, or landing off jumps.
Small holes are good for smooth tracks, with big jumps or crummy jumps with harsh landings.
Bigger Holes Bigger holes mean less pack. The point at which the damping gets stiff (where the shock 'packs up') occurs a lot later, at higher shock shaft speeds.
Big holes are very good for bumpy tracks. The car is more stable and has more traction in the bumpy sections. It won't be thrown up over sharp bumps, the suspension will soak them up a lot better.

Smaller holes in front The car jumps very nicely, a little more nose-up.
It feels easy to drive.
Bigger holes in front Can give a subtle feel of more steering and more consistent front end grip if the track isn't perfectly smooth.
Always use the same, or about the same shock pistons front and rear. Big differences in pistons make the car feel inconsistent, and not very smooth.

[BigC123]

Here is the rest of the info.

Lower Shock Mounting Location


Bear in mind that changing the lower shock mounting location changes the lever arm of the shocks on the wheels.
So mounting the shocks more inward makes the suspension softer at the wheel, and mounting the shocks more towards the outside makes the suspension stiffer.
Front more inward More low-speed steering.
Usually makes the car very hard to drive.
Front more outward Makes the car very stable, but it has a lot less low-speed steering.
Rear more inward Makes the car soak up bumps a little better, and can make the car corner a bit faster.
Can be good for bumpy, low-grip tracks, but general stability is greatly reduced.
Rear more outward Feels very stable.The way to go for high-grip tracks.

Upper Shock Mounting Location


More Inclined Has a more progressive, smoother feel.
More lateral grip.
Less Inclined
(More Vertical) More direct feel;
Less lateral grip. (side-bite)
generally a bit better for jumps and harsh landings.

Front more inclined than rear Steering feels very smooth.
A little more mid-corner steering.
Mounting the rear shocks very upright can result in the rear end sliding in the middle of the turn, especially in high-speed turns.
Rear more inclined than front Feels agressive turning in.
The car has a lot of side traction in the rear, and the turn radius isn't very tight.

Roll Center / Camber links


Long Link A long link gives a lot of body roll in turns.
It feels as is the body is willing to keep on rolling, until in the end, the springs prevent it from rolling any further.
The car has more grip in corners, especially the middle part.
Short Link A short link makes that the body doesn't roll as far, its tendency to roll drops off as it rolls.
This can stabilize a car in bumps and curved sections.
It feels as is the car generates a little less grip.
Parallel Link
(Parallel to lower arm) A parallel link gives a little more roll than an angled one.
It feels very smooth, and consistent as the body rolls in turns.
Angled Link
(Distance between arm and link is smaller on the inside) An angled link makes it feel as if the car has a tendency to center itself (level, no roll), other than through the springs or anti-roll bar.
It gives a little more initial grip, steering into corners. It makes it very easy to 'throw' the car.
The body rolls a little less than with parallel links.
On bumpy tracks, it could be possible to use softer settings for damping and spring rate than with parallel links, without destabilising the car.
Beware that you should always keep an eye on the balance of your car; large differences in roll center front vs. rear will make the car feel less consistent and less confidence-inspiring.

Longer Front The front rolls and dives more in turns.
Lots of steering in mid-corner.
Could make the car hook.
Shorter Front The front feels very stable.
A little more turn-in, but less steering in mid-corner.
Longer Rear More rear traction in turns, and coming out of them.
Rear end slide is very progressive, not unpredictable at all.
Make sure that there's enough rear camber though, or you could lose rear traction in turns.
Shorter Rear The rear feels very stable. It breaks out later and more suddenly, but if it does, the slide is more controllable.
It makes the front dive a little more, which results in more steering, especially when braking.
More Angled Front Turn-in is very agressive.
The front feels as if it wants to roll less than the rear.
More Angled Rear The rear end is rock-solid while turning in. It feels very confident.

Camber


Camber is best set so the tires' contact patch is as big as possible at all times. So with a stiff suspension you'll need less camber than with a soft one.
If the tires wear evenly across their contact patches, camber is about right.
On really bumpy tracks, adding a little more negative camber (2 to 3 degrees) can help traction and reduce the chances of catching a rut and flipping over.

Toe


Front Toe-in Stabilizes the car in the straights, adn coming out of turns.
It smoothes out the steering response, making the car very easy to drive;
Front Toe-out Increases turn-in steering a lot.
But can make the car wandery on the straights;
Never use more than 2 degrees of front toe-out!
Rear Toe-in Stabilizes the car greatly. It makes the rear end 'stick', but more toe-in makes the difference between sticking and breaking loose bigger.
Rear Toe-out Rear toe-out is never used. It makes the rear of the car very, very unstable.

Anti-Roll bar


Anti-roll bars are best used on smooth, and high-traction tracks only.
If you must use one on a bumpy track, try to use a very thin one.
Adding an anti-roll bar, or stiffening it, reduces traction at that end of the car. So it feels like the opposite end has more grip.
If the track is smooth enough, it also makes the grip level feel more consistent.
Anti-roll bars reduce body roll in turns, so they make the car feel more direct, and make it change direction quicker.

Stiffer Front An anti-roll bar at the front of the car reduces low-speed steering. The turning radius will be larger, but very consistent.
It reduces 'hooking' by preventing front end roll.
The car will have more rear traction in turns.
Stiffer Rear Adding an anti-roll bar to the rear of the car gives more steering. the car steers tighter, also at low speeds.
On a very smooth track, it can make powersliding easier. It can also make powering out of turns and lining up for jumps a little easier.
Ackermann


More
(Bigger difference in steering angle
between the two font wheels) More Ackermann makes the steering more consistent, and smoother.
It just feels right, also at low speeds and in tight turns.
Less
(Smaller, or no difference in steering
angle between the two font wheels) Less Ackermann makes the steering more agressive at high speeds.
The car turns in more agressively.
It doesn't work well when either traction or cornering speeds are low.

Internal Travel Limiters / Droop / Downtravel


More
(less droop/downtravel) The car changes direction faster, and corners flatter. It feels generally more responsive.
Adding a lot of travel limiters is only advisable on smooth tracks.
Less
(more droop/downtravel) Less internal shock spacers give better handling on bumpy tracks, and more and more consistent traction on difficult tracks.
The car also land better after jumps.
The end with the least downtravel will feel the most stable, and the most direct. But try to keep a balance (front and rear end droop about the same), especially on low-grip tracks.
Adding more internal travel limiters is a very effective way of reducing traction rolls, if not the most effective way.

Wings


Rear Adding rear downforce by changing to a bigger wing, or mounting he wing higher or at more of an angle increases rear traction at speed.
This can be very useful on slick tracks with fast, sweeping corners.

Pinion/Spur


Smaller Gear Ratio
(bigger number means smaller ratio) More punch and accelleration.
More runtime.
Lower top speed.
Bigger Gear Ratio
(smaller number means bigger ratio) Less punch, but more top speed.
Less runtime.
Smaller Pinion Gear Smaller gear ratio
Bigger pinion Gear Bigger gear ratio
Smaller Spur Gear Bigger gear ratio
Bigger Spur Gear Smaller gear ratio
Overall Ratio Overall Ratio = (Spur/Pinion)*Internal Gearbox Ratio
Rollout
(mm/rev) Rollout = (Pi*Tire Diameter)/Overall Ratio

[hakmazter]

That is awesome! Thank you for writing all of that. I am sure that will help the newbies that will be here in the future. Looks like it needs to be a sticky. Setup 101.

[vnmsgt]

Just used this info to setup my buggy different from the setup out of the box and WOW! with all this info in one spot it made a big difference since last week when I ran broke it in and ran it for the first time. Took some video of it and my truggy. Will post it later. Last thing I need to do is that bumpsteer mod.

[BigC123]

thanks guy's but I cant take all the credit I got the information from alot of different sources so ,I cant take all the credit, but I'm glad you all could use the information.:D

[mikey]

dam, its good infomration man, by the way, when do you guys want to give the picture of a team driver, so we can post it on the web site,..huh

so at least we know who we are talking to..right

[rrmccabe]

I would be curious to hear others alignment methods. How you do it. Angle guage, etc. etc.

[hakmazter]

I will need to go find a Caster Vehicle then. Instead of team driver, can you say "team mascot" for rrmccabe and I?:&!@:&!@:&!@

[vnmsgt]

dam, its good infomration man, by the way, when do you guys want to give the picture of a team driver, so we can post it on the web site,..huh

so at least we know who we are talking to..right

I like to be mysterious LOL!

[hakmazter]

http://casterracingusa.com/files/Mike/A70-624.jpg

[vnmsgt]

:&!@I think that is the funniest thing I have seen!!:&!@

[hakmazter]

http://casterracingusa.com/files/Mike/untitled.JPG

Guess Who?

[rrmccabe]

LOL

Looks like Cam.

[mikey]

this is cool , just name it and put all the info that needed,

we post it...^_^

[mikey]

so this is so funny
hahah

[hakmazter]

Mikey, have you ever seen Cam's self portrait over at rctech.net in the caster thread?

lol.

[rrmccabe]

Here is the picture with his brother.

http://www.ss-shootout.com/me.jpg

[lowlife88]

That is just plan funny.

[lowlife88]

I'm suprized nobody has cut and pasted their Caster set-up sheet on the forum yet for the new guys.

[hakmazter]

Well, If Cam used the forums...

1.) we wouldn't be able to get away with posting pics like this.

(I'm not a small guy at 5'11" 185lbs with ultimate fighter stature....but Cam is about 3-4 inches taller and probably has 100lbs on me and played college football)

2.) we would get a lot more technical information posted in writing as he is the engineering/design/racing development section of Caster Racing USA....

The downside of this forum is that we are small now and are slowly growing and as a result, there aren't 8,000,000 posts on here, but it also has it's advantages. As long as everyone is posting on other forums and showing well at races, we will grow into a company like Ofna and Kyosho and Xray and Mugen. It just takes time and it will actually take a little longer simply because of how we decided to get into the marketplace. That being said, doing it our way, there shouldn't be the problems and growing pains that some of the other manufacturers went through.

[rrmccabe]

showing well at races,

I was outrunning the neighbors dog down the fence line yesterday until I blew my clutch. Thats a good showing right? I was the fastest dog out there.

The dogs clutch was fine.

[hakmazter]

that's great Rich. I'll buy Leo a monster mutt monster truck body so you feel comfortable racing him.

[bc24fl]

Can anyone recommend an all around racing setup for differential fluids? The RTR (according to their website) recommends adding it as it comes with none.

Thanks.

[vnmsgt]

Can anyone recommend an all around racing setup for differential fluids? The RTR (according to their website) recommends adding it as it comes with none.

Thanks.

I think he means for the truggy not the buggy.

[bc24fl]

Can anyone recommend an all around racing setup for differential fluids? The RTR (according to their website) recommends adding it as it comes with none.

Thanks.

Sorry I stand corrected the website says "Replacing the grease in the diffs and the shocks is highly recommended but not required." I'll leave stock setting for now until I have a reason to change.

Thanks.

[hakmazter]

Yes, there is grease in the diffs. (I would like to know what it is equavelent to, my guess is 5000?)

Diff fluids 101

People use silicone to change the characteristics of the diffs. I posted this somewhere else, but if you remember cars that you would spin the tire (note lack of plurality) they would be equivalent to 1000 wt silicone. A lot of racers use this in the rear as it slips more and makes it easier to go around corners. Then they put 3000 or 5000 in the front so it still slips some, but not as much. They then put 7000 or 10,000 in the center diff as that sends power equally to the front and rear and makes it more like 4x4 locked. If you ever see pics where the front tires are ballooned out and the rears look normal, that is because they have too low of diff fluid in the center. Some people like it that way though. Maybe more people will chime in for.....

Diff fluids 201.

[bc24fl]

Great info!

You would think that at these events they would require every racer have the same setup. Or atleast they should divulge everyone's setup before the race. Probably a better test of genuine driving abilities and not so much mechanical skills.

[hakmazter]

I copied this from Razzor in another post.....Diff 201 the specifics and application....
Mike Mazza

Differential tuning.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here is my take on the differential tuning and it would or should apply to any car that has oil diffs.

ADJUSTING FRONT AND REAR GEAR DIFFERENTIALS
Gear differential action is adjusted by filling the gear differential with differential oil of a specific viscosity.
Differential oil is rated with a “viscosity” number that indicates the thickness of the oil, which determines how much the oil resists flowing. Differential oil with a higher viscosity (for example, 100,000 oil) is thicker than differential oil with a lower viscosity (for example, 40,000 oil).

• To make a gear differential LIGHTER, fill it with thinner oil.
• To make a gear differential HEAVIER, fill it with thicker oil.

EFFECTS OF FRONT GEAR DIFFERENTIAL ADJUSTMENT
Lighter Front Differential (thinner oil)
• Decreases understeer
• Decreases stability under braking and acceleration
• Increases chance of traction roll
Heavier Front Differential(thicker oil)
• Increases understeer
• Increases stability under braking and acceleration
• Reduces chance of traction roll

EFFECTS OF REAR GEAR DIFFERENTIAL ADJUSTMENT

Lighter Rear Differential (thinner oil)
• Decreases on-throttle steering
• Less acceleration if the grip is there
• Less predictable car (cars with very “loose” diffs have a tendency to understeer heavily under throttle and turn-in oversteer as soon as you lift)
• Less on-throttle oversteer (snap-oversteer)
• Less turn-in understeer
• Less stable under braking
Heavier Rear Differential (thicker oil)
• Increases on-throttle steering
• Better acceleration if the grip is there
• More predictable car (cars with very “loose” diffs have a tendency to understeer heavily under throttle and turn-in oversteer as soon as you lift)
• More on-throttle oversteer (snap-oversteer)
• More turn-in understeer
• More stable under braking


TRACTION CONSIDERATIONS:
* The higher the traction, the lighter the diff oil up front, and the heavier at the rear.
* The lesser the traction, the heavier the diff oil up front, and the lighter at the rear.

A good article to read is http://www.rc411.com/pages/howto.php?howto=24&page=3
__________________
Team RC fanatix, Casterracing, AxeMotorRossi, CK Gaskets, Ace Digital, Blitz Bodies, SANWA Super EXZES.

[bc24fl]

The good news is that this is great material and thanks.

The bad news (just read the online manual) is the rtr truggy comes with 700 front, 700 center, and 10000 in the rear.

I guess that's why they recommended changing them.

Thanks.

[razzor]

dont think that would be right !!
Will have to check though.
I dont think it would be a train smash to get some diff oils and do a strip down and reoil to get familiar with the truggy when you get it or better yet after you run it a bit .
After running it a bit you would be in a position to notice the difference when chamnging the diff oils.

[vnmsgt]

I would run it as is first just to see how it is and then change them too. You will feel the difference you made that way and if it was for the better or worse.

[bc24fl]

the info is on page 36 of the truggy manual.

[bc24fl]

Any confirmation that this is a misprint in the manual?


http://s101.photobucket.com/albums/m44/icarrion/?action=view&current=differential-pic-k8t.jpg

[vnmsgt]

Any confirmation that this is a misprint in the manual?


http://s101.photobucket.com/albums/m44/icarrion/?action=view&current=differential-pic-k8t.jpg

I just took a look at it. I think that is just a example of what a setup sheet would look like filled out. I would not go with anything that is said on there.

[razzor]

Any chance someone could put up a editable pdf setup sheet ?

[hakmazter]

http://casterracingusa.com/files/castersetupblank.pdf

[YourDogg]

You should make one of these for the truggy.

[vnmsgt]

The truggy has one in the manual you get. You can copy it and use it.

[YourDogg]

The truggy has one in the manual you get. You can copy it and use it. o ok i didnt know that. so does the buggy not come with one then??

[bc24fl]

o ok i didnt know that. so does the buggy not come with one then??

It should but he probably lost it or wanted it in electronic format for easier storage.

[vnmsgt]

Both truggy and buggy have them in the back of the manuals. just put the manual in a copier and make as many copies as you want to. Or download it like above and print it out.

[YourDogg]

alright cool.

[creativecandids]

thats an awsome pdf. now lets see some filled out by some team drivers of their rides ?&^.

[bc24fl]

I'm working on that. I have to upgrade my version of Adobe PDF to get them to so that users can save their data with the form.

[peasey]

Heres a setup sheet i have worked on. This is what i have been running and will be running indoors for the winter. Will update once i get it on the indoor track.
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f338/surfing_turtle/peaseysetup.jpg

[BigC123]

Here is my new set up I have been working on since I got the buggy together. If you like off power and on power steering and a real agile buggy and will rotate good then give it a try. I have let three factory drivers that drive different cars and they all said it is perfect, they wouldnt change a thing. ?&^
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh292/BigC123ZX1R/ZX15SETUP.jpg

[dskredbarron]

Thanks BigC, it will be the first set up that i try out. I will let you know how it goes!!

[BigC123]

Sorry forgot one thing on the setup. On the rear hubs run the outside pin in the bottom hole of the hubs.?&^

[BigC123]

Oh by the way guy's I guess you can tell I figured out how to write on the setup sheets and same them. Just put it in paint and you can do it.

[DustinH]

Why are you using jammin springs? What's wrong with Caster springs?

[BigC123]

Nothing at all, these were just about in between the red and the blue springs. So it worked really well. The red springs would be your best bet with this setup though and probably wouldnt even notice any difference.

[hakmazter]

Why are you using jammin springs? What's wrong with Caster springs?

He swears up and down that he wants to run absolutely nothing but Caster products....:bsflag:

I guess you just threw him under the bus.......lol.

[BigC123]

I have been here before Caster BB so I used to run Jammin BB shocks so I have many options in my arsenal LOL. Hey Peasey is running Jammin springs and no buddy is busting his balls so WTF LOL.:#$

[bc24fl]

Just dip them in red paint and be done with it.

[peasey]

LOL Thanks Clay! Throw me under the bus now! LOL

[hakmazter]

I have been here before Caster BB so I used to run Jammin BB shocks so I have many options in my arsenal LOL. Hey Peasey is running Jammin springs and no buddy is busting his balls so WTF LOL.:#$


Peasey is making his own parts, he is not loyal to Caster like you are.....You were mad 6 months ago that we didn't have glow plugs and other tire options.....

Now we will......and then you go all Jammin on me......ha ha ha....

[Deznuts05]

BigC what tires did you use?

[peasey]

Dang Hak throwing me under the bus too. Dang! The parts im making are still caster tho. Just made by me for caster. LOL Im not feeling the love today! J/k lmao

[pete26]

How 'bout those truggy pics Peas'

[peasey]

working on the on the truggy as we speak hopefully be done tonite and have pics up tonight as well sorry for the delay. I make all these parts by hand so it takes a little time. Will have pics up asap.

[bc24fl]

working on the on the truggy as we speak hopefully be done tonite and have pics up tonight as well sorry for the delay. I make all these parts by hand so it takes a little time. Will have pics up asap.

I don't get it. You make the parts for Caster?

[diamond_rc_racing]

I don't get it. You make the parts for Caster?


LOL.....way to many mods for something that does not need many mods

[hakmazter]

LOL.....way to many mods for something that does not need many mods

exactly....but everyone likes to tinker with things....some grind on their arms for more turning, some make a whole car out of carbon fiber......

If it keeps him entertained and he puts on a good show, then it is all good. I am just wondering if the excel spreadsheet I sent him is working out for his buddies........

I wish I had the time to do some R&D....

I just hope you don't beat him at the Nitro Pit. I am sure you 2 will run into each other sometime this year.....

I wish I was rich....I would send rangerdanger over there with a RTR.....lol.

[peasey]

LOL Mike. I did get the excel i havent herd from him today to find out if it worked or not. worked on my side tho. As for the parts that im making they have a purpose 1 they are lighter witch will make the car lighter and will make the car more responsive and handle better. The towers are shorter so you get more droop and close to the same amout of up travel. also makes the car lighter. And the front truggy tower im working on is again shorter so you can run buggy front shocks instead of rears all the way around. this too will make the truggy lighter and the truck will drive better because you will have more uptravel and more droop. also for the small spur gearing coversion you need a differnt radio tray and diff brace made those as well. smaller spur on the truggy will give you better responce more aceleration ligher rotating mass. I think the cars are already awsome im just trying to make them more awsome. please dont take what im doing as a pun to anyone or caster as thats not what im doing in anyway.

[diamond_rc_racing]

Peasey if it makes you faster than more power to you. It is all in good fun anyways. But if you come to Nitro Challenge with some homemade modded buggy body looking like a Mack Truck then you are not pitting with me :&!@

[peasey]

wow thats harsh. buts it all good!

[Dude C.]

Looks like the tribe has spoken Peasey!:D

[moparsrule]

Speaking of the nitro challenge, are we going to be able to get a banner or two to put up in the pits.

[peasey]

Yea I guess they have. I guess 20 years of experience doesn't count for anything.

[peasey]

Its all in good fun. Well anyways back to the topic at hand. The setup i ran indoors, i was running caster blue springs front and rear it seemed to work a lot better than the whites. Also ran the ackerman forward that gave me a ton more steering and smother as well. I didnt get a chance to run truggy but next weekend John aka ROUSE will be running my truggy. I have the small gear conversion on it as well as buggy shocks on the front and all my carbon parts. im sure he'll ive his two cents on it after the race day and ill post the setup as well/

[pete26]

We all know your just trying to make these cars better Peasey.I'm stoked to see what you do with the truggy.Keep up the good work.

[peasey]

I will hopefully have the truggy done today. I have been making some parts for Chris so I put that first.

[peasey]

Here are some parts that i just finished. Chris will be getting 1 diff plate,front plate, and radio tray. the rest are available for anyone who would like a set. I will also have new truggy towers done in the next couple of hrs the front tower will be shorter to be able to run buggy front shocks. also all holes are counter sunk on the radio tray and front plate.


http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f338/surfing_turtle/parts3.jpg

[bc24fl]

Peasy looks nice. You forgot to include the price.

[peasey]

The prices are as followed.
front plate 14.00
diff plate 12.00
radio tray 16.00
so 42.00 for everything if you buy all 3 it will 40.00 and 5.00 for shipping.

[DeadLastRacing]

Peasey, you gonna be making more of these? I would like a set but I wanna wait until I get my buggy.

[pete26]

Take a picture with them on the car.Please Peas'

[adrictan]

Ya Peas' mount the parts on the buggy so can better visualize. Thanks.

[peasey]

I will be making more. I will load up some pic tomorrow.

[pete26]

I know I'm being a pain in the ass but could you weigh them and weigh the alluminum and tell us the weight savings.Were these done on a water jett or a mill?Just curious.They look awesome.

[peasey]

I have weighed my car with all the aluminum and with all the fiber weight with the aluminum 7.6lb and with the fiber parts 7.0. I use a mill and a dremel.

[adrictan]

Where can I order those Jammin springs? Don't seem to have many places selling.

[peasey]

Witch jammin springs? I belive amain has them if not i can get them as well.

[adrictan]

Not sure what I sure get. I have the EX1 RTR so I suppose I have to upgrade to big bore shocks first?

[adrictan]

Since the Pro have the 16mm big bore shocks, what size is the RTR's?

[stu541]

I believe Nitro house shares a building with Mugen and Ofna. You can actually get the 16mm springs by the pair from them.


www.nitrohouse.com (http://www.nitrohouse.com)

[peasey]

I would run the caster blues in the front and rear they seemed to work the best.

[adrictan]

I would run the caster blues in the front and rear they seemed to work the best.

Tht means I need not change anything? Cause the RTR has the blue springs.

[razzor]

Addrictan you dont need to cahnge anything on the buggy.
Run it first !! you wont be disspointed.

[fastboy]

so theres almost half a pound saving in weight on the buggy by switching to carbon?
hook me up a set :)

[cheesecake]

when you weighed your buggy is that with wheels and tires or without.

[peasey]

I weigh my cars just like they do at a roar events. Wheels tires no fuel no body. RTR minus fuel and body. fastboy send me a pm with your order. also anyone who wants any of these please send me a pm.

[fastboy]

what do you get for the money?
cheers
dave

[adrictan]

Peas: Would you ship overseas if I'm interested?

[peasey]

At this time im not shipping overseas. Hopefully in the next month or so.

[vnmsgt]

At this time im not shipping overseas. Hopefully in the next month or so.

Peasy, just to let you know "adrictan" is good for the money to ship overseas. I sold him his Fusion RTR so you know the transaction will be ok.

[peasey]

im worried about the shipping cost.

[adrictan]

Thanks Chris for the boost.

[vnmsgt]

im worried about the shipping cost.

Shipping would only be like 10 bucks for the cheapest with USPS first class international. Go USPS and it is alot cheaper than UPS.

[razzor]

But no tracking !! Tracking only in the US.
USPS is also very inconsistent with there deliveries.
I buy regularly from teh US and USPS always gives me hassles.
Sometimes a parcel arrives in 2 weeks sometimes 6 weeks. Can never tell.
You will recieve your parcel but dont count on it being fast.

Now i rather use FEDEX International Economy and build up orders to justify the extra cost.

[adrictan]

Can I know what use are the diffs oils for the front/center/rear?
e.g front 5k compared to 7k oil, etc

[adrictan]

Disregard. I just found this. Seems useful.

Buggy and truggy front (Bumps): You also have to consider how the diff affects the handling through bumps. Lighter oils (3,000wt buggy, 7,000wt truggy) are better for bumpy conditions. If the oil is too heavy it will make the car want to change direction or oversteer in the rough or rhythm sections.

Center Differential
Buggy and truggy: Lighter center oils help the buggy or truck track straight while accelerating (3,000-5,000wt buggy; 7,000-10,000wt truck). Running lighter oils in the center has a negative effect on the acceleration. The lighter oil allows the power to be directed toward the front of the car and hamper acceleration out of corners. If you're having trouble clearing jumps that are out of a slow corner, that could be a sign that the center diff is too light, but for really bumpy sections having lighter oil in the center will allow the car to accelerate better and straighter.

Rear Differential
Buggy and truggy: I don't adjust the rear too often, and if I do it's usually only in 1000wt increments. Lighter oil in the rear diff gives the vehicle more off-power steering, but can make the car or truck feel inconsistent around the track, especially in long main events. The majority of the time I will use 2,000 and 3,000 in the rear diff in both buggy and truck.

Differential Tuning With Chad Bradley
We ask these questions all the time when we're racing, and have heard them asked at least seven times while at the track... and we're sure that as you're reading this you may be asking "What do I do when...?"

...the track is rutty:
Buggy: Try changing the center to a lighter setting first (3,000-5,000wt); if the car is changing directions out of a bumpy corner, try making the front lighter (3,000-4000wt).
Truck: Same as buggy but the diff setting to try for the front (7,000wt) and for the center 7,000-15,000wt.
...the track is loose and smooth:
Buggy and truggy: The best way I've found to increase traction with the diffs is to increase the oil weight in the rear diff slightly -3,000-5,000wt.
...if the track is loose and rutty:
Buggy: A "square" diff setup here helps -5,000wt front, 5,000wt center and 3,000-5,000wt rear.
Truck: Lighter center and front -7,000wt front, 10,000wt center.
...the track is blue groove:
Buggy: Most of the time I run between 5,000-7,000wt in the front, and 7,000-10,000wt center.
Truck: Most of the time on blue groove the cars and trucks on throttle turn-in good because of the weight transfer to front tires, but you lose some steering coming out of the turn. So to sacrifice some turn in for out of the corner steering and acceleration, a heavier front and center is better suited majority of the time -20,000wt front, 30,000-50,000wt center.
...the track is blue groove and rutty:
Buggy: I would normally just go lighter in the center, but not too light (5,000wt)
Truck: Since most trucks handle the bumps I wouldn't change the diff settings from the smooth blue groove setup.
... I want more steering entering the turn:
Buggy: Lighter front oil (3,000wt) and rear (1,000wt)
Truck: Lighter front oil (5,000-7,000wt) and rear (1,000-2,000wt)
...I want more steering exiting:
Buggy: Thicker front oil -5,000-10,000wt
Truck: Thicker front oil-10,000-20,000wt
...I want more acceleration out of a turn:
Buggy: Thicker center oil - 7,000-10,000
Truck: Thicker center oil - 20,000-50,000wt
...I want it to go better through a rough section:
Buggy: Use thinner oil for the center (3,000-4000wt) and thinner oil for the front as well (3,000wt).
Truck: Use thinner oil for the center (7,000-10,000wt) and thinner oil for the front as well (5,000-7,000wt).
...it pulls around too much through ruts:
Buggy and truck: Usually this happens because the oil in the front and center differentials is too thick; reduce weights.

Starting Point
All this is worth nothing if you don't have a starting point. Chad gave us some starting weights for a variety of conditions that will be good at most tracks. You can apply what we've gone over in the article to fine tune your vehicle:
http://www.rc411.com/howtos/130/02.jpg


Conclusion
Once you understand the principal of how a diff works and how different weight oils slow the action you will be a master tuner in a few short days. This doesn't mean that dropping 1,000wt in the front will make you a better driver. Learning how to drive is something that has to be done before you can fine tune to get the car to behave like you want.

[bc24fl]

Well, according to that chart I'm way off as I set my F8T with 2k,5k,2k (but with orings in gears).

[Mr Fusion]

I would start with 5-7-2 or 7-10-2 something like that...

[adrictan]

I'm on 7-7-3 now. Will consider 7-10-3 in future.

[Deznuts05]

Started with

5-7-3 for a month or two pretty basic had forward bite and a slight push exiting

5-10-3 for 2wknds pretty much the same as the top however even more of a push on exit

7-7-3 felt better however on loose tracks it was pushing everywhere and simply not the best all around setup

currently on a 5-5-5 setup and it is spot on, high traction to low traction tracks a stab of the gas squares up the front to rear and pretty much drives itself.

Next, I want to try 3-10-3 to see if I get the same effects of the 5-5-5 but with faster turn in and quicker squaring up.

Rudy Diaz

[bc24fl]

Started with

5-7-3 for a month or two pretty basic had forward bite and a slight push exiting

5-10-3 for 2wknds pretty much the same as the top however even more of a push on exit

7-7-3 felt better however on loose tracks it was pushing everywhere and simply not the best all around setup

currently on a 5-5-5 setup and it is spot on, high traction to low traction tracks a stab of the gas squares up the front to rear and pretty much drives itself.

Next, I want to try 3-10-3 to see if I get the same effects of the 5-5-5 but with faster turn in and quicker squaring up.

Rudy Diaz

Rudy, are you running the orings in your diff gears?

[Deznuts05]

Irv,

The only o-rings are for the outdrives (needed to keep the fluid inside).

The o-rings for the plantary gears made the diff too tight and hard to seal so I opt'd not to use them.


Rudy

[bc24fl]

Irv,

The only o-rings are for the outdrives (needed to keep the fluid inside).

:rolleyes: :rolleyes:


The o-rings for the plantary gears made the diff too tight and hard to seal so I opt'd not to use them.
Rudy

Ah ok. On the buggy diffs I'm going to try 5/5/5 without the orings as well and see how she drives.

[Dave D]

Irv,

The only o-rings are for the outdrives (needed to keep the fluid inside).

The o-rings for the plantary gears made the diff too tight and hard to seal so I opt'd not to use them.


Rudy

I have found that after a few runs the o'rings really don't make much of a difference and I went up in diff fluid.

[DustinH]

I like 5-5-5, it allows me to be aggressive out of the corners, just a little push off power though.

[jason]

I just changed out my diffs to
5-7-2 for my fusion and 7-10-3 for my K8T
hope to get out this week and test.

[cheesecake]

I ran 3-7-2 and its awesome steering but when i come out of a corner its squirly as it wants to diff out where ever its not getting traction

[DustinH]

That is why I went to 3 degree rear toe block, 30W in the rear, and the 5k diff fluid.

[DGKIRKMAN]

try 20k-25k-1 or 2 k for the kt8 unless the track gets blown out go to 15 in front ,,,7-7-2 or 5-7-2 for the buggy

[stu541]

I've been running 5-5-5 and 5-5-4 with great success. Lots of steering and very stable.

shocks
Fr-1.3 pistons 35wt with blue spring zx-1 front tower in middle hole and inside on arm. Use rc8t droop screw and unscrew shock end till full droop is avail.

Rr-1.3 pistons 30wt with yellow spring one hole from outside on tower and outside on arm. Use rc8t droop screws with full droop avail.

[spura]

try 20k-25k-1 or 2 k for the kt8 unless the track gets blown out go to 15 in front ,,,7-7-2 or 5-7-2 for the buggy

Next weekend got a important race in tight technical track, and want to try some other diff setup... if you run in K8T 20/25/2 can you give me a link of track where you run and what engine you use? As I see some Florida pros are trying to keep oils lower than 10K

Thanks.

[Rocketman]

Been running 10-10-5 at almost every track here in fl. link to one of the tracks.... www.horrc.com/
Some of the tracks on the warm days will lay down a crazy blue groove(alot more than normal) when this happens I sometimes will put 20k in the center.

[spura]

Thanks Rocketman.;)

[notch]

Cheesecake- it is squirley out of the turn because your center diff fluid is a bit high... this is sending more power to the rear of the car... for the buggy try 4 or 5k in the center

[Michael#81]

Has anyone tried the GHEA pistons in the big bore shocks?

I was running them in my buddies RC8 when I was racing it and it seemed like the shocks were much smoother and more consistent over the stock pistons that I had ran it it before. I was running the 1.3 8 Hole Pistons.

[hakmazter]

smoother than ours? I would be surprised to be honest. Big bores are another part that we nailed perfectly.

[adrictan]

I've just changed my F8T setup fm 7-10-3 to 7-10-2. See how things go. It previously had over-steer going into turns.

[badassrevo]

smoother than ours? I would be surprised to be honest. Big bores are another part that we nailed perfectly.

+1 Caster shocks are the best I have used. ?&^

[Michael#81]

smoother than ours? I would be surprised to be honest. Big bores are another part that we nailed perfectly.

No they were not smoother than the caster shocks they were smoother then the AE shock with the stock pistons.

The caster shocks are awesome.

I figured out my own question that the ghea pistons will not work in our shocks.

[hakmazter]

Well, nothing wrong with experimenting here and there.... It might be the next big thing we implement.

[Gump]

speaking of shocks and implimentation, anything coming down the pipe about a proper set of springs for the 1.5r's big bore shocks? The current set changes wire size to achieve different rates. the thicker size in the front causes excessive ride height. a better way to achieve different rates is to pick a wire size and change the number of coils while keeping the overall spring length the same.
I'd much rather run the caster products and have a direct comparison to other caster drivers than have to do things like run jammin springs.

[PitMan]

right here we go again ......lol

There are two front shock towers for the car ( 1.5/fusion ) the us spec car runs a shorter tower with gives increased ride height and increased droop due to the shorter tower

the taller tower gives a lower ride height but decreased droop so its a bit toss up really

read these threads to figure out whats best for you and your track

here are some old threads from 2008 woooaaa

http://casterracingusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=605

http://casterracingusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=593

http://casterracingusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=579

The uk 1.5 come witht he tall tower and the uk fusion comes with a shorter tower

pete please correct me if i am wrong

[hakmazter]

I think we should have 1 tower for everything. I do not think we are getting different towers. If that is the case, it needs to stop immediately. 1 buggy/truggy with as many interchangeable parts as possible should be the goal. It is stupid and a waste of time to do anything different because there would be no consistancy.

[skirkman]

I would rather have the taller tower so you can try a wider choice of springs and shock positions,plus proper ride hieght adjustment...And im with gump, we need springs that go by coil count rather than diameter of coilwire.

[DGKIRKMAN]

or mabee make 1 tower thats taller with 2 sets of rows of holes like the mbx5r was, those were great towers with many options 4 different track cond.s .. just a thought 4 the new car ,, ps my car has the taller tower the front doesnt bind up before it bottoms out like the short tower on shauns car

[DGKIRKMAN]

Well, nothing wrong with experimenting here and there.... It might be the next big thing we implement. ha,talk about xperimenting came to my house,,the tires,motors,cars r getting better all the time shaun tested some secret nova motor at the gas champs the thing was ballistic he gave it back after the weekend to be shipped back to italy now hes testing some completly new make of motor this week

[unseenmagik]

Agghhhhh

Didnt see this Guide.
I just spent a few hours doing this one..
>>>>>>> http://casterracingusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2716

Ben

[RcHippie]

No they were not smoother than the caster shocks they were smoother then the AE shock with the stock pistons.

The caster shocks are awesome.

I figured out my own question that the ghea pistons will not work in our shocks.
yes they will you have to use the losi ones just drill out the hole for the shaft! caster pistons are 15mm so are losi .ae and kyosho are 16mm

[RcHippie]

speaking of shocks and implimentation, anything coming down the pipe about a proper set of springs for the 1.5r's big bore shocks? The current set changes wire size to achieve different rates. the thicker size in the front causes excessive ride height. a better way to achieve different rates is to pick a wire size and change the number of coils while keeping the overall spring length the same.
I'd much rather run the caster products and have a direct comparison to other caster drivers than have to do things like run jammin springs.
I second that! We need a full set . from 2.75 to3.93 rear and 3.31 to 4.5 front. All this ,well this feel stiffer than that ,and that is softer than that, I think maybe?